Oil feed pipe bolt torque

(V12 Dave) #1

Can’t seem to find the torque specs for the oil feed pipe assembly.
3 specs; pedestal banjo, 2 camshaft banjos, engine block banjo
Thanks to anyone who can pass them on.
Plan is to use a wrench and spring scale as its too tight to get the torque wrench over the bolts (engine still in the car)
87 xj12

(Kirbert - author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.) #2

Three grunts each.

The more important thing is that the copper washers have been properly softened.

(Mark Lee (Pay Pal Patron)) #3

12-14 NM or
8 - 10 ft lbs
That’s straight from the Jaguar 5.3 service manual.

The copper washers will need to be annealed in order to reuse. I don’t think a propane torch will work, I don’t think it will get hot enough. copper melts and some stupid temp like 2000F or 1100C (roughly).
Acetylene will - I’ve done it. heat the washers up to red hot, then quench in water. brush the scale off.

Or better yet just replace them. If you’re in the US, it’s going to be tough to find in a local fastener supplier because most of the carry Hillman or the other one… Crap! it went right out of my head… OH YEA Dorman… I’ve found these vendors provide a washer that the outside diameter is usually too big. I ran into this issue with the cam cover washers. I gave up and just annealed the ones I had - firs go, then the second time I went with Stainless Steel / rubber “sealing” washers. They are awesome!! absolutely no leaks from the cam covers. AND I didn’t have to use any type of “sealer” just the paper gasket. which I am more than pleased about.

So you may have to purchase from
SNGBarratt, or Terry’s Jag, Welches, or
XK unlimited :expressionless:
Jaguar Part #
Cam side washers are # C4146 Banjo is C5846
block side and pedestal washers are #C2296 Banjo is C29652 for the block and the pedestal.

(Robin O'Connor) #4

Propane or MAP will anneal the copper washers, either quench or air cool will work.

(V12 Dave) #5

Thanks Kirbert, are those metric or standard grunts?

(V12 Dave) #7

Also, I take it one doesn’t need to anneal new washers, or is there merit in doing so?

(Kirbert - author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.) #8

Metric. You don’t want to apply SAE grunts to the soft aluminum threads in the tappet blocks.

(Kirbert - author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.) #9

Brand new copper sealing washers are already pre-hardened by being stamped out of a sheet, so it is actually a good idea to anneal them.

(Mark Lee (Pay Pal Patron)) #10

Nope new copper washer haven’t been exposed to “work”. Therefore just install the new copper washers. Copper like aluminum and other non ferrous metals become brittle when exposed to work. bending. When the copper washer is squeezed between the mating surfaces, it forms to both surfaces creating the seal. the constant change in temp causes the material to become hardened. So if you try to squish it again. it won’t squish properly creating the required seal.

(V12 Dave) #11

Do the washers on the block and pedestal need to be OEM or would a copper washer of the correct diameter and very close to the thickness work?

(John) #12

Hi Dave,

Maybe you need upgraded bolts? They are just a tad longer and have cross-drilled hole relocated to accommodate prpper thickness washers :wink:

(V12 Dave) #13

Hi John!
You have already got me!
I received the upgraded bolts from you about 2 weeks ago.