Hello,
I’ve been asked if people know of a paper filter that will fit the oil filter canister of a 3.5L MKV. This would replace the original, I guess?
Cheers,
Tim
Hi Jon,
The fellow who asked says that the Ryco filter you have suggested he has tried and it’s too long for his filter. Not sure why this might be the case?
Hope you are well?
Tim
Hmm, strange as it seemed to fit my canister nicely… (Yes I’m very well thanks 
. How’s the IV tracking?).
Hi,
I too have the shorter canister in my MKV (MKIV engine) and it took me a long time to find a match locally (FLAPS) BUT I did find one in the end: Hillman Imp!
The only big problem is that the seals that come in those do not work at all, I had a longish thread about that in here long ago, and thanks to Rob, when I visited Florida (about ten years ago) I bought a bag of them from McMaster-Carr in the US. That was a funny transaction, as I was at my in-laws condo in Miami but of course used my own credit card fro the order. Well they delivered but gave me very angry feedback, and declined to sell anything to me ever again, as they were sure I was going to export the items!!! (I thought that’s perfectly legal as a private person as long as I don’t do it professionally and in Finland I mustn’t exceed the 1000 euro limit for items for personal use, otherwise I would need to declare it through customs and pay duty and 24% VAT.)
Anyways, I should have about 25 years stock of the seals for “my own personal use” but I get the short canister from a local shop with the part number for a Hillman Imp. Works perfectly for me!
Cheers!
PS. The long one is fine for 3.8 and 4.2L E-types and some other Jaguars for sure, like MKVII-MKIX perhaps MK2 as well.
Thanks for that info Pekka. Now I’m wondering if I have inadvertently crushed my filter, or (more likely) have my filter notes mixed up… I’ll take extra note next oil change.
Apparently, either the RYCO R2281P or R2445P will work.
They are essentially the same diameters (within a millimetre) when compared to the RYCO R205P but shorter, measuring 140mm long instead of 153mm. They should be ideal but do check the seals are a suitable fit.
Tim
In the US we don’t have Ryco but we have some other brands.
I use Fram CH801BPL which is listed for Jaguar Mk1, Mk2, XK150, Mk10 and E-Type.
You want to be sure your filter touches the top and bottom discs and compresses the spring in the bottom just slightly.
As I recall the Fram came with cork spacer rings.
Thank you Rob. I shall pass that information on to the fellow who asked. I’ve also learnt a thing or two which is a bonus.
I try a do something helpful for at least one person each day if I can. I know that’s how you think too. 
Tim
Hi Tim, On a short holiday up here in Qld and just read your question. The filters Jon suggests are the correct ones for a 3.5 MkV. The problem with the length might be due to a previous owner over-tightening the centre bolt to overcome oil leaking from the seal. Over time, this overtightening compresses the bottom of the cannister and deforming it and thereby shortening the length. This happened to my original cannister but was overcome by buying a cannister in good condition. Hope this helps. Nik C
Thanks, Nik, I’ll pass the information on to Frank who asked me in the first place. I’m sure that Jon will be relieved. Stay safe. 14C in Melbourne today. 
Tim
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Hi,
I used that (or equivalent Mahle, or Crosslands) too on my 4.2L E-type.
But it’s too tall for my MKV. But as the engine I have is from a 1947 MKIV 3 1/2 Litre Saloon (#SL2199) I don’t know if the oil filter is also an earlier design.
Anyways the cartridge that fits the canister on mine is the shorter one here, same as Hillman Imp. CH814PL.
Cheers!
Hi,
Talking about oil filters, I really did another major cock-up! 
I had a nicely running car, a bit over 500 miles of running-in left, I thought I’d change the oil, filter and adjust and tinker a bit.
The clutch was fine, but I was worried it would not completely release the TOB, I had to put it back as it was. I adjusted the accelerator linkage, as it was not returning fully, but often left the idle at 900rpm until I pulled the pedal with my foot. I have one wire loose in the manette so no horn, a good thing the directional indicators work and I have the Bermuda bell! 
But the oil and filter. After I restarted with the new oil I wanted to adjust the oil pressure just a bit higher, it was always above 25 lbs but I wanted to make sure it would be the recommended 40 tp 60 lbs at 2500rpm. When I opened the locknut also the adjustable valve body came loose. I noticed there was an oil leak, and I remembered I could not get the right size of fibre washer from anywhere, so I used a copper ring. An o-ring would not work and as the copper ring was a bit too large, it also leaked a bit.
So I filed by hand a copper ring from inside diameter of 22.5mm to 23.05mm. Perfect fit. But then, I overtightened the valve body to the oil filter housing! 
So, anyone know where I could get a new oil pressure valve or valve body???
I checked with an engineer friend and he said it’s impossible to repair as copper based alloys (incl. brass) get brittle in heat and over time, so a 50-75 year old part would not be an ideal candidate for soldering etc.
I do have a few extra oil filter housings, but they are all for the XK engine snd the seal and bolt pattern are different.
Any ideas?
Cheers!
I think that broken part is C.1088/C and the same as used in XK120 and Mark VII and possibly some later models.
Hi Pekka, send me an email with part numbers desired. With luck I may have what you need.
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Hello All
I was the person who initially reached out to Tim locally and asked him if he could recommend a locally supplied oil filter cartridge for a MKV. Since he subsequently posted onto this forum for further suggestions, which has opened up a very insightful and informative discussion, I thought I might join the discussion with some photo evidence.
Firstly thank you everyone for your input. It has been very helpful.
Initially I thought the canister that houses the filter from my MKV to be the correct factory type, with a few minor dents in its base. However after reading Nik’s response regarding over-tightening and deforming, thus shorting it length, I am thinking this may be the case with mine. But at the same time I am intrigued to hear that Pekka has a shorter canister installed on his MKV. Perhaps it is the same as mine?
However with no pictures to compare other than those in the service manual, I have no reference. If anyone can confirm or comment on the specs in the photos below, that would be appreciated.
I dismantled the internals found inside the base of the canister as below - Spring at the base with disc on top secured by circlip:
This is a shot of inside the base after being cleaned. You can see the threaded hole where the bolt screws into after going through the top body and canister:
Therefore any comments that validate whether this canister is indeed the correct type for a MKV would be helpful. This may shed further light as to the correct filter cartridge I will eventually need as the RYCO 205P filter is slightly to tall for it at the moment.
Thanks Frank
There doesn’t appear to be any change in the oil filter canister so I would assume that the short one is just something that a previous owner has substituted for the original, possibly because the original was cracked by over tightening.
Peter
Welcome Frank. Your filter canister certainly has been dimpled due to over-tightening. It appears to be a standard Mark V canister.
Ignore the green one, Bugeye Sprite I think.
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Hello Frank, cannister you pictured looks correct other than the dimple, crush at the bottom. This crush problem is pretty commonly seen. One suggestion is to live with it and find a filter which works. If you attempt to alter it back towards original configuration, the outer height of the cannister in my garage is 7.25" or 18.3 mm. Those two numbers are not quite equal, but that shows the uncertainty from using two tape measures. Given the importance of axial alignment of the cannister at the upper seal, if the dimpled cannister is otherwise good, I would recommend not attempting to alter the cannister if a good filter fit is available. Undamaged original cannisters are hard to find and repaired ones are not that easy to find either.
I guess I’m a risk taker and I would attempt to press it back in a press, with the center bolt in and some sort of fixture to keep it straight. Perhaps a torch on the damaged area to soften it up.
That said, I see Frank is in Melbourne, and I recall a couple of years ago somebody in Australia found a big stash of Mark Vs and engines disassembled. The Australian Jaguar clubs might know where that stash went.