Oil Filter Cartridge 3.5 MKV

Thanks, Nik, I’ll pass the information on to Frank who asked me in the first place. I’m sure that Jon will be relieved. Stay safe. 14C in Melbourne today. :cold_face:
Tim

1 Like

Hi,

I used that (or equivalent Mahle, or Crosslands) too on my 4.2L E-type.

But it’s too tall for my MKV. But as the engine I have is from a 1947 MKIV 3 1/2 Litre Saloon (#SL2199) I don’t know if the oil filter is also an earlier design.

Anyways the cartridge that fits the canister on mine is the shorter one here, same as Hillman Imp. CH814PL.

Cheers!

image image image

Hi,

Talking about oil filters, I really did another major cock-up! :frowning:

I had a nicely running car, a bit over 500 miles of running-in left, I thought I’d change the oil, filter and adjust and tinker a bit.

The clutch was fine, but I was worried it would not completely release the TOB, I had to put it back as it was. I adjusted the accelerator linkage, as it was not returning fully, but often left the idle at 900rpm until I pulled the pedal with my foot. I have one wire loose in the manette so no horn, a good thing the directional indicators work and I have the Bermuda bell! :slight_smile:

But the oil and filter. After I restarted with the new oil I wanted to adjust the oil pressure just a bit higher, it was always above 25 lbs but I wanted to make sure it would be the recommended 40 tp 60 lbs at 2500rpm. When I opened the locknut also the adjustable valve body came loose. I noticed there was an oil leak, and I remembered I could not get the right size of fibre washer from anywhere, so I used a copper ring. An o-ring would not work and as the copper ring was a bit too large, it also leaked a bit.

So I filed by hand a copper ring from inside diameter of 22.5mm to 23.05mm. Perfect fit. But then, I overtightened the valve body to the oil filter housing! :cry:

So, anyone know where I could get a new oil pressure valve or valve body???

I checked with an engineer friend and he said it’s impossible to repair as copper based alloys (incl. brass) get brittle in heat and over time, so a 50-75 year old part would not be an ideal candidate for soldering etc.

I do have a few extra oil filter housings, but they are all for the XK engine snd the seal and bolt pattern are different. :frowning:

Any ideas?

Cheers!

I think that broken part is C.1088/C and the same as used in XK120 and Mark VII and possibly some later models.

Hi Pekka, send me an email with part numbers desired. With luck I may have what you need.

1 Like

Hello All

I was the person who initially reached out to Tim locally and asked him if he could recommend a locally supplied oil filter cartridge for a MKV. Since he subsequently posted onto this forum for further suggestions, which has opened up a very insightful and informative discussion, I thought I might join the discussion with some photo evidence.

Firstly thank you everyone for your input. It has been very helpful.

Initially I thought the canister that houses the filter from my MKV to be the correct factory type, with a few minor dents in its base. However after reading Nik’s response regarding over-tightening and deforming, thus shorting it length, I am thinking this may be the case with mine. But at the same time I am intrigued to hear that Pekka has a shorter canister installed on his MKV. Perhaps it is the same as mine?

However with no pictures to compare other than those in the service manual, I have no reference. If anyone can confirm or comment on the specs in the photos below, that would be appreciated.




I dismantled the internals found inside the base of the canister as below - Spring at the base with disc on top secured by circlip:

This is a shot of inside the base after being cleaned. You can see the threaded hole where the bolt screws into after going through the top body and canister:

Therefore any comments that validate whether this canister is indeed the correct type for a MKV would be helpful. This may shed further light as to the correct filter cartridge I will eventually need as the RYCO 205P filter is slightly to tall for it at the moment.

Thanks Frank

There doesn’t appear to be any change in the oil filter canister so I would assume that the short one is just something that a previous owner has substituted for the original, possibly because the original was cracked by over tightening.

Peter

Welcome Frank. Your filter canister certainly has been dimpled due to over-tightening. It appears to be a standard Mark V canister.


Ignore the green one, Bugeye Sprite I think.

1 Like

Hello Frank, cannister you pictured looks correct other than the dimple, crush at the bottom. This crush problem is pretty commonly seen. One suggestion is to live with it and find a filter which works. If you attempt to alter it back towards original configuration, the outer height of the cannister in my garage is 7.25" or 18.3 mm. Those two numbers are not quite equal, but that shows the uncertainty from using two tape measures. Given the importance of axial alignment of the cannister at the upper seal, if the dimpled cannister is otherwise good, I would recommend not attempting to alter the cannister if a good filter fit is available. Undamaged original cannisters are hard to find and repaired ones are not that easy to find either.

I guess I’m a risk taker and I would attempt to press it back in a press, with the center bolt in and some sort of fixture to keep it straight. Perhaps a torch on the damaged area to soften it up.
That said, I see Frank is in Melbourne, and I recall a couple of years ago somebody in Australia found a big stash of Mark Vs and engines disassembled. The Australian Jaguar clubs might know where that stash went.

Hi all,

I checked the parts numbers and details from the Spare Parts Catalogues.

It would appear that there were only long(ish) cartreidges or “elements” as Jaguar / SS Cars called them on all six cylinder cars.

Pre-war and early post-war cars used an earlier type, but from 1947 when LHD production first began the Tecalemit filter was always the same throughout MKIV and MKV production: FG.2306.

For whatever reason my oil filter housing says: FG.2312, which according to GB Dönni’s e-bay webshop was the OEM oil filter for the six cylinder SS1’s.

https://www.ebay.de/str/jaguarclassic?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

So my guess is that in my case, as the engine was replaced by Hornburg in Hollywood, LA, with a LHD MKIV 3 1/2 Litre engine, that had the separate oil filter assembly and only the Relief Valve Housing on the cylinder block, they used an Oil Filter Housing that fit and was available, and it happened to be Tecalemit FG.2312 from possibly an SS1 or spare parts stock for an SS1 or some other British car that used that one instead of the slightly longer FG.2306.

And thanks Roger, I sent you e-mail about the part numbers.

I would need at least the Relief Valve Body C.1088/C.

But possibly also a suitable (long) Canister C.1089/A, if anyone knows a good source for one?

I’ll ask Worcester Classic Spares of course as well.

Cheers

MKIV Engine No. S.26 →

FG2306 OIl filter element
C.1089/A Canister
49451 Valve, relief, assembly
C.1088/C Relief Valve Body
C.1088/D Washer (fibre) under Hexagon

C.1089 OIL CLEANER

MKIV Engine No. SL.1831 →

FG2306 OIl filter element
49451 / C.1709 Oil Cleaner Relief Valve Assembly
C.1088/C Relief Valve Body
C.1710 Washer (Fibre) between Relief Valve and Housing

MKV

FG2306 OIl filter element
C.1089/A Canister
C.1088/C Relief Valve Body
C.1088/D Washer (fibre) under Hexagon
C.1087 Washer, Jointing between Oil Cleaner and OIl Gallery Plate

Is yours like this perhaps?


This is for L and M series engines.

I was thinking SS1 did not have an oil filter?

Hi Rob,

Nope, but the “element” looks about the same length.

That FG.2312 reference is from GB Dönni, surprisingly few hits with google, and that’s what it says on the brass plate on my Oil Filter Housing.

I did post pics of it earlier.

And now I modified the broken Relief Valve Body so it will not give relief, but should not leak much either. i have now 10W-40 semi synthetic oil in there, so I am pretty sure there is no risk whatsoever of ”over pressure” or oil pressure above 60lbs at 2.500rpm.

Cheers!

1 Like

Hi all,

I got a Relieve Valve Body C.1088/C from @Roger_McWilliams and I have now made measurements and a 3D CAD model of it, plus I have made a modified version of it (slightly longer body to accept a modern seal as the original fibre seal is completely NLA, C.1710 Washer (Fibre) between Relief Valve and Housing. The original washer is 1.5mm thick and a modern substitute I was able to get is 2.5mm thick. I am not sure how well it will seal, but it feels really tight and has a rubber double “lip” inside metal casing and is intended for hydraylic systems so I think it should be good.

I can e-mail if someone wants the file (please state in which format, SAT, STEP etc.) and in case I manage to get a workshop to use their CNC machine to mill some for me out of brass I can let you know in case someone would like a spare. AFAIK it’s about the same cost regardless if they make one, ten or twenty for me. :slight_smile:

And I am thinking of having them make also new oil pump shafts as mine did survive ok, but I think the end that drives the oil pump has taken quite a hit (as it jumped) so I thought that as long as I have it at hand, why not also make a model and see if someone would make new ones at reasonable cost, as it is a very simple shaft after all.

BTW mine is from the 1947 MKIV engine #SL2199 so I read from an older Jag-Lovers Pre-XK thread (with Ed) that apparently the later MKV version did not have the oil groove in the bottom part anymore. Maybe that one got mine going with cold oil? :slight_smile:

And what is that groove in the middle for? (the horizontal one, I know the vertical ones are the keyways for the two keys. Again for oil or something? (I think it sits just above the bush that has one 'thou clearance, just like the rocker shaft and rocker bushes.)

Cheers!

PS. I have never ever used inches and fractions in drawing before, PLUS I have worked as an architect, NOT engineer, so my dimensioning is probably very funny for mechanical engineers, BUT the 3D model and the dimensions should be pretty accurate. :slight_smile:

relief-valve-body.pdf (52.3 KB)

relief valve body-2021.pdf (50.3 KB)

Hello Pekka, Do you have the McMaster-Carr part # for the sealing ring? I’m guessing it is #337. Thanx, paul

Hi,

Sorry, I’m traveling at the moment and don’t have my laptop with me.

Also I originally got the part number from @Rob_Reilly maybe he knows.

Cheers!

Yes, I got them from McMaster-Carr.
square section Buna-N o-ring size 337 part no. 4061T313 in a pack of 25 should last you awhile.

2 Likes

Oh, ya gotta love that!!!

1 Like

Thanx Pekka!

1 Like

Thanx Rob!

1 Like