Oil & Ignition warning lights on all the time

When I went to install a Central Locking Kit. I fed the 2 blinker wires through the center console then connected the brown\blue trace wire to pin no.4 on the central lock switch. It’s a bit awkward with all the double connectors, so I pull up the alum ski slope.
For some reason I decided to check the brown\blue trace wire for power, it was dead. So I checked the windows switches they worked ok, the cigar socket had power, so I worked across checking things, ( I have not powered up your Central Locking Kit so there are no issues with it yet)
Tried to (74 XJ6) start the engine, just a click from the solenoid, checked starter relay, permanent power to brown wire & power to the white/red trace wire when trying to start engine.
Battery reads 12.7volts
Then I noticed that the oil & Ignition warning lights were still on all the time even when the key was removed from the ignition switch, (I leave with the battery neg cable removed for safety, when not working on it)
The electric Fuel pump is also ticking away with the ignition key turn on & stay ticking when the ignition key is removed.
Have checked everywhere for loose connections
Also, had the help of a friend whose an auto electrician, He look over the electrical & is at a loss too

[quote=“Warren_Thomas, post:1, topic:443096, full:true”]
When I went to install a Central Locking Kit.

What kit did you actually fit, Thomas, it’s sort of difficult to assess what the other electrics you did was relevant to fitting the kit…

I suggest you disconnect the connections you made, reverting to the original configurations - then reconsider how to connect the central locking kit…?

Basically you have connected brown/something, (permanent power) to a connector that powers wires normally powered only with ign ‘on’. This bypasses ign key on/off function - and the key doesn’t ‘work’.

Crude example; if permanent power is connected to coil pos, the white circuit is always live - irrespective of key position. This is due to interconnections of several items, all run by the white circuit - very complex. And the same applies to other circuits…

Revert to original, verify normal functions - then muse…

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

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the SII car and its power locking system lend themselves ideally to a simple custom adaption to a remote control switch. It isn’t expensive, only requires pulling wires and making up a handful of new wires and is fully revertible. I installed it many years ago and it still works perfectly - touch wood!

The conversion is described in https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/installation-of-keyless-remote-control-locks-to-sii-cars/358343.

Of course, it only works on a functional original setup.

Other than that, do as Frank has described: crawl back to square one and sigh a breath of relief if everything is back to regular function:-)

Good luck


75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

The original kit I tried to fit was a Viper Model 3105V
I fitted a Narva 12V 30A/30A 5 pin twin relay to the indicators and was trying to figure out how to install the starter kill switch/ alarm.

I spoke to mate who was auto electrician for his thoughts and his advice was to give it away has it would require fitting relays to every function of the alarm system to avoid melting the brains of the alarm system (Jaguar being 50yo).
Have since shown the alarm system to a bloke call Tom in Sydney (Who was not impressed with the Viper) who sells a brilliant coloured schematics of XJ6 S1,2 & 3 electrical & simple central locking system which is now much easier to install with indicators as I had already 2 indicator wires from the original Viper alarm.

Weird thing, I had not touch another part of Jaguar electrics except the drivers door internal light switch and 2 wires for the indicator, which was to activate the alarm system when door opened.

I mate had fit new thermal switches to both window & door lock systems and both were working beautifully. windows still are working.

So I hope you can understand my confusion & mates why there is a power leakage past the ignition switch (still leaking with ignition wires disconnected) & the central locking system becoming dead


I understand these remote control anti-theft speak-to-me devices are intriguing. It’s just that - contrary to their common depiction - they ask a lot of understanding of the host electrical system and the piggy-back device.

At the bottom line I have refrained from using any of these things on my car and relied on my understanding of the power lock circuit of the SII car, the entry gate it offers with the central switch, and simply wired an R/C switch in parallel. No, my horn doesn’t toot, nor do my head lights blink good-bye, leave alone a lock of the trunk. But all four doors lock and unlock reliably and the hefty “thunk” of the power locks makes redundant any additional signal.

Now just restore the original state and, if necessary, fix what is broken. Then you might add the R/C control … if you feel like it.

Good luck


75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

‘Installing’ both an alarm system and central locking system simultaneously is…hm…‘brave’, Thomas…:slight_smile:

Whether the alarm system is inappropriate, misconnected or simply defective is anybody’s guess; it must be eliminated as a factor by complete disconnection.

Working in tight spaces may also induce the ‘fiddle factor’ which may cause the oddest symptoms - for all we know you might have touched something tender, causing havoc… You may also have a fault unrelated to your work - like a faulty ignition switch…

I don’t know what you planned for, or did with, the central locking system. I thought it was fitted and worked satisfactorily, however imperfectly, on your model year?

We need a base line; the original set-up, working properly…

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

I first brought the security system Viper to give peace of mind when it’s parked out of site. The youths in Melbourne will seal anything that has luxury badge on.
Security system would also give me central lock with a flog key.
With the Viper system I got as far as installing security systems was the indicators using a dual relay and wire to the driver internal light switch. At that stage I ask advice from my auto electrician mate who advised me to give the security system a big miss because of the Jaguar age (50yo) the security system would require a shit load of relays. At that stage I remove the few wires I connected. During fitting the security system I started the car to keep fresh fuel in the SU’s
I had brought a coloured catalogue of the electrical system of the XJ6 S2 to help install the security system.
On the same web page was a central locking system designed for the XJ6 S2.
So brought that. While I was waiting I installed my review wireless reverse camera on the boot above the rego plate & started to install the video screen attached to the dash vents, the video screen was power from the cigar lighter attachment.

The central locking system arrived later that week, I added 1.5m of wires to the indicator option available on the CLS. Taking the CLS to the Jag I fed the indicator wires through the centre storage box hole thru the console to the two indicators wire I had installed for the viper system, I then connect the other wires to Jaguar central locking switch.
The system didn’t work, so I check the Jaguar brown/blue stripe power feed to the central locking toggle switch. It was dead, check the fuses they were ok, I previously had an issue with the power windows working which was the thermal circuit breaker dying. So I replaced both the windows & door lock circuit breakers, both windows & door lock worked as they should.

I start to check other systems to find what could be wrong
Windows work
Radio worked
Indicator/hazard worked
Internal lighting worked
All lights worked
Then I tried to start the engine “nothing”. I check the wires on the starter relay power there
Back inside the Jag I noticed the oil & ignition warning lights were on with the key ignition turned off & key removed

Still looking for the fault, I have disconnected the indicator wires, the start key wiring disconnected, bit confused because there is power to starter relay, brown wire ok but power to the white/red strip solenoid had power which I thought only energised to the start solenoid when the start key was turned to start, also the white/blue also had power.

That were I’m up to now
Currently sitting in a Subaru dealership waiting for my daughter whose buying a blue BRZ
Cheers all

:slight_smile: quote=“Warren_Thomas, post:7, topic:443096, full:true”]
…Still looking for the fault, I have disconnected the indicator wires, the start key wiring disconnected, bit confused because there is power to starter relay, brown wire ok but power to the white/red strip solenoid had power which I thought only energised to the start solenoid when the start key was turned to start, also the white/blue also had power.

You have moved with the best of intentions, Thomas - and are blameless on that account…:slight_smile:

Beginning with the non-crank; The brown circuits are constantly powered. At the relay, when the key is turned to ‘crank’, white/yellow from the ign key operates the relay - which connects brown to white/red, which operates the solenoid to power the starter from its battery connection.

So the white/red should be unpowered unless the key is to ‘crank’ - as you say. So; as long as there is power on white/red the engine should crank.

If not; short relay between brown and white/red and the engine should crank - this bypasses the relay. If it cranks; the solenoid and starter are OK (if not, not), but the relay is otherwise suspect. It may give voltage, but does not pass enough current to operate the solenoid - and may be stuck in ‘on’. You can also check that the white/yellow is only powered in ‘crank’…

Central locking; did you replace the existing solenoids with the motors provided with the kit provided? The original central lock system used solenoids - operated by the ski slope switch. Early versions did not have the feature of lock/unlock by the door key. That was fitted later, but requires adding a control module in the driver’s door. As the solenoids require relays to switch between lock and unlock; modern remote lock/unlock will not work without some modifications…

Modern remotes are generally used with motors - and change polarity - reversing motors for locking/unlocking, which will not work directly with solenoids. Generally; remote requires a combined motor/control unit in the driver’s door. The motor part is activated by the remote, which moves the control unit - which then send a brief pulse, with appropriate polarity, to the other motors. The control unit can also be moved mechanically by the door key, or internal handles, with the same result…so…?

Alarm systems; alarms and/or immobilise the vehicle - triggered by various means. Alarms are ‘easy’, but immobilising functions depending on the car’s equipment - and these old vehicles may not have the compatibility with every systems on the market. And alarm system malfunctions is a not infrequent source of trouble…:slight_smile:

You may have more than one fault - which complicates matters. We need some thinking and information…:slight_smile:

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

Well where to start. what a cluster fu*k of issues & happenings

Things I’ve learnt

Not all connection under the dash are one off’s, you can have more than one 4 pin straight plugs, your can have more one 3 pin 90deg plugs.

Why, because if you think there are one off’s & you ask someone to plug all the connections together there is 90% chance you will have dash warning lights on.

I was feeling better & dosed up on pain killers & pulled every joint apart & the dash lights went out, pulled the steering bolts out off the dash, makes it much easier to see the wiring, asked the wife & grandson to help put the connection back together. Wife tells me there are still lose connections WHAT!. Start to check where the missing connections are, when I spot a red loom connector plugged into a green connector (bright light flashes past my eyes). Could it be the dash light fault? You guessed it. Found the other loose connector buried under plastic bags of clothes, son in-law thought there was a spare spot to dump 3 bag of clothes on the wiper/indictor thingy, after half an hour 3 of us searching we found them.

Install these connections & every thing works as it should & no dash lights.

Engine won’t crank if the white & red wire connection comes loose

Long time ago I got caught by the same issue so I wrapped the join in pvc tape. Due to the heat in the jag engine bay the pvc tap stretched the joint and it had come loose buried under the pvc tap. Lesson. make the joint tighter & use cloth tape. I no longer use pvc tape on any of my car electronics

Installed central locking system, my auto electrician mate soldered all joints together, we made a little jump cable to check out the central locking, all including button & the flogs worked except for the drivers door, it’s a Jag always has to be something wrong.

Now working out how best to fine tune the rods so the chrome locking lever works like the other 3 doors.

For some reason the window thermal circuit breaker has now failed. Had enough of Mr Lucas 60s circuit breakers, now going to install the modern circuit breaker used on caravan electric brake system. Never had a failure in 50 years, just have make sure the joints are well insulated & supported.

Bravo, Warren. You got there in the end, with some flair!

Have you verified that there is a motor/solenoid in the driver’s door, Thomas; originally there were none - only a control unit.

‘Correctly’ set up; operating the driver’s door key should operate the central locking - all doors, and boot. Without a motor the door will not operate by remote - without the control unit the door key (and internal paddle) will not operate the central locking system. A complete remote system usually contains all the wherwithall

Also; adjusting the motors/solenoids can be tested by ensuring both lock and unlock function; maladjustment means a door is locking but not unlocking - or vice versa.

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)