Oil pan chop help needed - can it be done?

Well, you don’t see it done every day, but you could put together a wet sump, single stage, remote oil pump affair that would be much less costly than a full dry sump. Use just the pressure stage of a dry sump setup.

Plumb the suction side of the pump to the existing sump. There is a Russell Racing fitting for Chevrolet power steering pumps that has the same SAE thread as the sump drain plug and AN dash 8 or 10 on the other end. Plumb the suction side of the pump to that fitting. Plumb the pressure side of the single stage pump to a remote oil filter and the outlet of the filter to one or more of the main oil galley ports that run down the right side of block. That would eliminate at least two scavenge pump stages. You would still need the drive mandrel for the crank snout, but only one toothed pulley. It could work.

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Here is the Russell fitting connected to an Aeroquip AN 90 fitting. I use it for the pressure bypass from the filter block.

As Peter has requested a photo of the front end would help. The D’s I think had the rack mounted as per the later E Type. Across a frame/chassis in front of the engine and behind the radiator not under the sump. Rethinking the front suspension may be easier and cheaper. My Tempero D has a Mk 10 /420 front suspension ID’ed from the shape of the A arms and the sway bar.
In terms of engine cant it was around 7 degrees I believe with the carb side being raised and exhaust lower.
You may run into road clearance issues with the sump but the '76 XJ6 has the rear ears on it? These are shallower I think than the earlier sumps so that is one thing in your favor.


This is a Mk2 sump, not too different from the XJ6. Eliminating the internal oil pump looks like it would save you an inch and a half at the front.

If he’s mounting the engine over the steering rack, the sump ain’t gonna be the first thing that hits the pavement.

You do this red line, single stage, remote pump, wet sump.

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Internally, you will need to blank off these ports circled in red. You can plumb the ports along the side of the block into the main oil galley. Personally, I would put a tee in the line and do that in two places. I would put AN adapters in the two ports at the green arrows. Plumb the oil filter outlet to those two ports.

Alternatively, you can block off all three of the extra ports with one plate (yellow ink) covering the factory oil filter mount.

I will throw out one more obscure option available to you. The deck height on the 2.4L XK 6 cylinder engine block is only 225mm, 67mm shorter than the 3.4/3.8/4.2 variants (292mm). That could be the 2-1/2" clearance you are looking for, without expensive racing parts.Viewed from the top, it looks like any other Jag six. Uses the same cylinder head. The engine from the 240 saloon even used a straight port head. Most Jaguar people can’t ID one on sight. It’ll be your secret. For your purposes, it could be a winning compromise.


That… may be what I might consider with the Jeepster.


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The 2.8 is shorter too but it might not be obtainable. Shorter deck, short studs, revs to 6000 in the XJ S1 and is quoted something like 150hp.

What about a early steel sump with a dent welded into the middle.

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Thanks guys, especially Mike, very comprehensive and detailed.
Interesting info on the 2.4, will take measurements later, and see what’s available.

Yes, but never available in North America. I believe the 2.4L cars were sold everywhere, albeit in small numbers. There was a complete 2.4L engine for sale near me just a couple of weeks ago.

Without any pictures of this beast it is hard to guess what path to take, but my thought is that the steering rack should be re-evaluated and the position changed.

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LHD Etype rack upside down eh Kevin, what is the angle of the tie rod to the steering
arm, depending on the deflection of the chassis when the engine is installed I know…
looks like you might be able to lower the rack tight to the subframe. Is a shot low down poss to show the space available, allso showing the line of the rack ,tie rods and steering arms?
Peter B

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Rack mounted from underneath? Could be lowered with a couple of spacer blocks.

Personally, monkeying with the steering geometry makes me nervous. Getting the Ackerman and bump steer right is always fiddly. Anti-dive, anti-roll geometry, roll center, very complex. It’s a lot easier to make it fast down the straightaway than it is to keep it out of the Turn 1 gravel trap. Of course, we don’t know what or who provided the geometry as it sits now.

I have a spare sump, pulleys, pipes etc for my D-type dry sump system that uses an external Pace pump.

The D-type engine was tilted 8.5’ for intake length reasons and dry sumped for powerp/endurance and height reasons.

If you regard the XK front view as a tall rectangle, then canting it over slightly increases, not decreases, the installed height because the hypotenuse is the longest side of a right angle triangle. If you then make the sump wedge-shaped to flatten the base you can mount it lower, which is what Jag did with the XK’s alloy successors AJ6 & AJ16.

Having a large separate oil tank was an advantage ja Reims & Le Mans, where petrol and oil tanks were sealed for the first section of the race. Jaguar saved pit time by going long to first top up.

Sitting low between tall 16” cross-plies limits the inlet tract length as the back of the adjacent wheel gets close to the front carbs on right lock, so the innner wheel arch/shield is a tight fit. Tilting the engine left gains you valuable extra torque from the added inches of intake.

If anyone is interested in the dry sump kit for around the cost of a Moroso pump, let me know. Rest assured every cent paid will got straight into the money pit that is D-type construction. Yesterday was a 500 mile round trip to the NC body shop to finish the rear bodywork. Fabricating the rear wings and boot skin will cost more than twice what I have ever paid for a car…

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Another possibility is to use different steering knuckles, and make it a front-steer setup.

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