Reminds me of what we envisioned a conversation between two software designers might sound like.
Designer 1. “Well, that works nicely; simple, easy and effective”.
Designer 2. “Too simple, it needs more bells and whistles, lets complicate it”.
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I put the gage (mechanical) from a triumph or MGA or Austin Mini 0 to 100 psi directly in the dash of myXKE the fittings are the same as the existing sending unit.
Just turn off the black metal ring on the gage face and trade it for the one on your existing gage and you have a perfect match ! They fit and are interchangeable…
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As stated by David, the sending unit on the original style setup was to compensate for the voltage change. Does anyone know if the replacements are made to do so also, or are they just standard non compensated units? Years ago when my sending unit failed, I decided the replacement cost too much, and not knowing the difference, I just bought any cheap unit. It moves with oil pressure, but I assume not very accurate. Does anyone know how accurate the original setup was considered? I can imagine Jaguar never really cared how accurate, as long as it read something. Did they really care if it read 40 psi or 60 psi? I wonder if we many be expecting too much. I do not think I will pull an engine for such a difference.
Tom
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As stated above, my unit, which I’m fairly positive is original, consistently reads about 15 PSI low. Whether it did so when it left the factory I can’t answer. Nor can I state the behavior of mine is typical or unique.
IMHO… not terribly.
Good enough, is the fairest I can say.
I called Nisonger today to check on my “air core” pressure sender and matched gauge. Peter said they checked both the 0-60 and 0-100 gauges in the latest batch and have sent them all back to Smiths because they weren’t accurate. I have to give him credit for not wanting to sell gauges he wouldn’t want in his own car. If they send him a more accurate batch, he’ll let me know.
So, I guess in spite of my desire to not have a direct plumbed oil line in my dash, that’s likely where I’m headed. In the meantime, Ill just reinstalled the faulty sender unit and keep an eye on it.
My gauge was always pinned at start up so I went to the 0-100 which now seems low. I may send it back also.
Just use AN line, and you’ll never have an issue.
Nisonger is only a few years behind the times. I noted the problem with new production mechanical “Smiths” (not) gauges here on J-L a couple of years ago. Find a used original Smiths mechanical unit.
I just spoke with Nisonger about my new 0-100 psi oil pressure that seemed to be not reading correctly. I was told that these new gauges are very sensitive to bad grounds at the sender and meter. He indicated that I made a mistake in using Teflon tape at the sender as this clearly prevents a good electrical ground. And that I might need a additional wire at the gauge to ensure a good ground at that point also. I will be making these changes and report back.
Seems like the copper washer between the shoulder of the sending unit and the milled surface of the oil filter head would provide a good ground for the sending unit.
If you want to know all there is too know about your engines oil pressure,
fit one of these, via tee, or oil gallery hole, add $10 for an adaptor
by all means, hide it shamefully where no one but you can ever see it, glovebox etc, tiny thin wires!
say goodbye to oil pressure doubts, about $US50… job done
reads instantaneous pressure, including cranking, no oil pipes, keep original gauge
Installed “air core” pressure sensor and gauge from Nisonger. Didn’t use any sealant on sensor and used a ground wire to the chassis of the gauge per instructions. Works great…so far. We’ll see about longevity.
Now water temp gauge and sender are acting up. If it’s not one thing, it’s another. Ah well, such is classic car ownership.
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dont know if they have the “idiot” light low OP sensor on E-types, as they do on XJ
I also added a idiot light sensor from an old 2.8XJ block straight into a '68 420G OP gallery hole ( cant remember if it has an adaptor)…hooked it up to a bright red LED illuminating an engine oil can image
cost me next to nothing, and can be removed or hidden in next to no time
also have a contact probe and warning that measure external head temp
these give you a good chance to save your engine in an emergency
I Had the same problem with low oil pressure at idle once the engine was warm. Clearing a piece of debris out of the pressure relief valve cured the problem. I would check that before messing about with gauges.
I completely agree. First thing I did when my oil pressure gauge initially acted up was pull the pressure relief valve to check for debris. None was present. I installed a new relief valve and spring and reinstalled it and got exactly the same bad readings from the gauge. It’s always a good idea to check there first in case there is a piece of debris stuck in the valve.
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The debris was half of a small cotter pin. I don’t want to think about what that could mean. Four years later nothing bad has happened.