Oil pressure revisited

E-Type
21

like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-145-Hose-Pinch-Pliers/dp/B000O3NACS.

or like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0076PB2U4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0076PB2U4&pd_rd_w=EGliQ&content-id=amzn1.sym.eb7c1ac5-7c51-4df5-ba34-ca810f1f119a&pf_rd_p=eb7c1ac5-7c51-4df5-ba34-ca810f1f119a&pf_rd_r=2FBEJ4Q9BR9J2W5WG02C&pd_rd_wg=aXxmR&pd_rd_r=38a6ba31-7c31-4c65-a2ed-80c91065106c&s=hi&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw.

don;t understand how to use the second kind.

22

The first pair.

23

The asymmetrical one? Did you remove the bell like flange on the return fitting on the sump? I learned the hard way that the inner layer of the hose is very soft silicone and the flange will slice through it. Hot oil then entered the flaw and caused the inner layer to delaminate and chunks floated upward and thoroughly clogged the over pressure fitting preventing it from sealing.

I’m assuming that’s not your issue because I believe you already investigated the valve, but it will be your issue if the flange isn’t removed. You can iron it out by putting it in a bench vice and gradually tighten as you rotate the part, until it’s nice and cylindrical again.

24

Oh. Keeryst. Another little drain the oil job.

25

The adventure continues!
:rofl:

26

Bill the second type is for those damn spring hose clamps that have one leg on one side and two on the other, you know the ones that you try to remove with a set of pliers and they slip and crush your fingers.

1 Like
27

I have that exact tool in my bottom drawer. Those bent spring steal torture clamps are all over my VW. It’s kind of a fun tool to use, stupid expensive for what it is and does, but it gives me that I’m a real mechanic now feeling from using it.

28

I purchased mine from TEMU, less than $nz30.00

29

I needed one too for a Porsche, 2004 C4S. The car is gone but I still have those pliers. Every once in a while I’ll spot just the business end in the bottom of the never used tools drawer and wonder what in the world it could be.

30

I always managed to not crush my fingers by using pliers on them… :slight_smile:

I have an older pair of slip joint pliers that are pretty wide, and that’s probably why.

31

I always use slip joint pliers too refuse to pay for the proper ones .Vise- grip work well especially if you can turn them sideways they say not to reuse those spring clamps but I’ve never had any trouble

32

OK.
Update: Got a ratcheting hose pliers.
After Otter fan kick in; 10 lbs hot at 700 rpm.
rev engine to 2000 rpm 39 lbs
Clamping bypass made no difference at all at idle. Didn’t try 2000 rpm

So, what does this tell us?

33

Sounds like a weak pump, and/or leaky o rings on the pickup/ pressure pipes.

1 Like
34

I have the oil level at the bottom of the cross hatch is that enough?

You are saying that there is always a release of oil trough the pressure relief valve? And that clamping it must cause a significant rise in oil presure at the gauge/?
'cause 40 lbs at 2000 rpm is spec right?

35

ok.
PUt the plastic line pliers on the by pass hose, Idling at 10 lbs and it went up to 22. Revved the engine slightly and the gauge started to climp to 45 lbs at which point I let go of the throttle.

Is it possible this trick just doesn’t work with the silicon hose?

36

I think your getting excited about nothing really
When cold with 10-40 oil the oil pressure should rise to a normal reading then drop of at idle as it heats up say 1/2 hr this is the only spec I’m familiar with officially

IMG_0260
IMG_02604032×3024 2.86 MB

Oil pressure in a correct engine is a function of bearing wear so if your engine has been overhauled it would seem off to me but perfectly normal in a used engine IMHO move onto other issues as it’s not hurting anything then revisit later with a more informed opinion
I’m not sure what has been done to your engine that is important to know or you’ll go down a rabbit hole with no rabbit

PS couldn’t mail fuel line post office closed thks giving day add another week should get there

Cheers

37

Good oil pressure is 40psi hot at 3000rpm. My experience is that the likely causes of low readings go: sender, gauge and connections (not relevant to a mechanical gauge), relief valve, pump, and last of all bearing wear.

38

So did clamping make a difference or not?
Tom

39

using ratcheting pliers I bought specifically for this purpose made no difference.
Going back to the plastic clamp type pliers increase from 10 to 22 lbs at 700 RPM idle warm.
Then I gave the throttle a gentle nudge towards…maybe 1500 rpm with the plastic clamp and the gauge swung up rapidly…like it was going to go past 45 lbs but I lifted my foot since I thought that point was made at 45 lbs.

is that more clear?

or briefly. The clamping made a significant difference if the idles speed was increased while clamp was in effect.

40

Yes, more clear. Sounds like a relief valve issue, even though you had it out once.
Tom