Order of assembly downpipes heat shield

Apparently I don’t have this down pipe heat shield (forward) C25101

Can I fit this after the exhaust system is installed or will it not be possible if the exhaust pipes are in the way?

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@c1nicole – Candie, this ought to be right in your wheelhouse,

Craig

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I’ll follow, once we get out of triple digit heat, this is our next project so we can get the braking system installed!

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I did this job earlier this year. 3 hrs to get off, 3 hours to get back on. If there’s ANY chance you can do this with the manifolds off, take it!!! I no longer have access to my drive on lift, which may have made it easier.

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I put my heat shield on then did the pipes, required a long extension from the bottom to reach the 8 manifold nuts
Use some grass or piece of paper to make the nuts jam in the socket then reach up and start them without the ratchet wrench
Easy

…and the u-joint (wiggler socket) helps too.
LLoyd

You’ve got to live somewhere you aren’t afraid to die.
Ukrainian poet Serhiy Zhadan

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Well, that was interesting:

Now if only I could get the exhaust pipes on.
I took them off with the head pipes attached to the silencers. Anyone ever put them back on still connected? Don’t quite know how I’m going to get them separated. they need to be securely locked down so a second person can twist the pipes while I apply the torch. And they are stainless. Does stainless react the same way to the torch that mild steel does?

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to Of course, it didn’t quite line up. I used a putty knife on the back side to loosen the “looseleaf” pins, just until they were moveable about 3/16 inch, this allowed the brackets to wiggle a bit. Did the bolt loosely, managed to get sheet metal screws in the existing holes at an angle, pulled them a little snug, then forced the brackets closer to the frame rail by pressing on them with the tip of a large screwdriver, in effect making the brackets crooked, so they aligned better with the frame rails, then a few more turns on the screws. I thought I might have to drill through the brackets and put a small screw in them to help locate them and the shield but the pulling in 3 directions seems to have located it sufficiently…I hope.

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I am coming to accept that fitting items in this car requires at time cirque solei maneuvers and very small hands and fingers.

We installed the lower heat shield last night and it took 3 hours. The exhaust was in place and to say this was a tight fit was an understatement.

We have yet to install the ones you have just completed.

If they came off they should go back on ….I just did it…. You may need extra hands …. I connected all the pipes loosely then wiggled the connections to the header , snugged up and then underneath

that’s what I thought but, I am having difficulty getting the head pipe with the new “biscuit” into the manifold. I managed to force aline it …once…but I couldn’t get it to go far enough into the exh. manifold that I could fit the flanges and nuts. any tips there?

Yep… did it all in one piece, for clutch jobs: raised it back up with a tranny jack.

did you have it on the jack and NOT bolt in the silencers but instead hook up the head pipes to the cast iron header?

I’d raise it up by the mufflers, then guide the downpipes into the manifolds.

Then, after getting on a few bronze nuts, get the mufflers back on their mounts – loosely – and also loosely attach the resonator bracket, then finish tightening up the manifold flanges.

I found it was easier to disassemble the exhaust and put the pipes on one at a time it’s also easier to install one pipe first can’t remember if it’s the front or back. It allows you to twist the pipes around so they slide in and there much lighter to deal with . I Was working on my back, tried doing it all at once with a dolly jack but it was fighting me, needed more hands .if you take it apart make sure it slides back together easily for assembly (clean the tubes a little oil )
I didn’t want to scratch my paint, the job looks easy but it’s awkward
Cheers

My POV – – which is not to say yours isn’t valid too – – is that time was money for me.

I had at any one time, 10 or 15 cars that I was working on, and I had to get these things done in a short a time as possible.

That’s when I learned that you don’t have to take the console out of an E type to drop the engine!

When I attached my down pipes to the exhaust manifolds I used brass nuts and they kept falling off when I drove the car. When I switched to wedge lock/Nord locks the nuts stayed in place. As mentioned, a long group of extenders were needed to tighten the nuts from below with the car elevated on Jack stands.

I attached my lower heat shield after the down pipes and it was a royal pain.

—Drew

It’s one of those chicken or egg jobs and I remember that I couldn’t start all the nuts from above

[quote=“Wiggles, post:16, topic:424259”]
is that time was money for me.
[/quote] …

Ya my time is nothing …it wasn’t my first choice and I remember being frustrated that I had to . I know a shop would be swearing at me for taking it apart
I took it off in one piece should go on in one needed a better set up
Help , room ,equipment scratches and it
doesn’t hurt to take an exhaust apart once in awhile so you can
Think it fell on my head that’s when I took it apart

Im sure you’ve developed some tricks to maximize profit I just have another beer :beer:
Cheers

Skinned knuckles and bruised forearms are par for the course.