I thought you already bequeathed the J-Type to @Jcrosby after your demise in another thread. Maybe he’s just trying to lower the appraised value to likewise lower his inheritance tax burden…? Shame!
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I wouldn’t doubt it… That cheapskate! 
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No, at death the JeeType basis gets stepped up and no tax burden to the receiver. If anything, I’d want it to be high value at Paul’s death to minimize any possible tax from gains when I sell it in the future.
I do resemble that remark!
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I try not to bash nice looking cars, but am I the only one wondering what in the world is going on with that engine? First, I’m not sure why a 34k engine needed a rebuild. But in any event, if it was rebuilt in 2019, then why is the compression just 150psi? They’re all very even, so it probably isn’t due to valve leaks. Did they rebuild it with 8:1 pistons? 150 is not much better than mine was when I bought it 23 years ago and it was a dog.
Welp, thank god it doesn’t have those worthless '60s Cheney hose clamps installed on it then, to lower the value. And, knowing the decedent, he squirreled away the original Cheneys in a little hidden box so the inheritor will make a pretty penny scalping them to a JCNA concours wannabe. Scoundrel!
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A friend of mine bought an all original '65 with 17K miles that had been sitting untouched in a garage in (humid) Baytown Texas for 30 years. He said the rings had rusted some to the cylinder walls and left a ridge so he decided to rebuild the engine. Maybe something similar with that '63 engine.
David
68 E-type FHC
Yes it was probably sitting unloved, but then if it was rebuilt just 4 years ago, why the low compression? Mine was overv180 after a rebuild.
Judging by the mileages quoted in the documentation (33,938 in 2017 when purchased), rebuild in 2019 because of oil leaks after driving (implies it was driven before rebuild), current mileage 34,013, the rebuid has no miles to speak of since the work was done. How long would it take for the new rings to seat?
I guess that could account for it, but it’s a big open question. Mine was far higher out of the gate.
I can’t think why 3.8’s would crank at higher pressures than a 4.2, but I remember checking the spec on the 4.2 when I bought my car, and the spec in the manual was 150 psi. My car makes 150 psi across the board, and it’s certainly not a dog.
But, to your point, why does a 34,000 mile car that’s supposedly been maintained its whole life need an engine rebuild? My 29,000 mile car makes great oil pressure, the bores are perfect from my borescope inspection, and the compression readings are healthy and consistent.
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Well, one thing all of us are doing here is casting out ideas without having all the information: who knows if it actually “needed” rebuilding: all we know is, that’s what someone said it needed.
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If the bores were honed correctly, it shouldn’t take more than a few miles under load, and few heat cycles.
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The spec for 9:1 pistons is 180. I believe all e-types were 9:1. Is your car 8:1 maybe? The difference is pretty noticeable. My car feels downright twitchy now on the throttle. It took some getting used to
I am not buying that one point increase in compression ratio is going to equal all that much difference.
Efficiency… Yes, power… Not so much.
It was my understanding that E-Types destined for various rest-of-the-world countries with poorer fuel were fitted with 8:1 pistons.
Stand to be corrected.
I think you are correct, but this was delivered in the US.
Not all E Types were 9:1, my 1964 3.8 had 8:1 pistons, I still recall its engine number 43 years after I sold it, RA4831-8. I suspect the lower compression was more frequently specified for export cars going to under-developed countries, like New Zealand. 
Edit, Craig beat me to it!
I misspoke. I should have said all US cars. This was delivered to NY.
There is a (3 page) car history document in the photos which gives the background. Strip down was by a fastidious owner to cure oil leaks. A restrained shipwright’s episode kicked in and they did a hone plus rings and bearings, plus valves and guides (can’t imagine that was necessary but hopefully they put guide seals on the inlets while they were there). Also replaced frost plugs.
And clutch plate and thrust bearing, kept original pressure plate.
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That makes more sense. The first time mine was done, it just got new rings, bearings and timing stuff, and that bumped it to 165. I’d call that more of a refresh than a rebuild. It didn’t go over 180 until it got new liners and pistons.