Any info on the weight capacity of the original s2 Jack.
Straight to the point. Can the Jack lift the front of the car at the picture frame without being over spec. Rear of car would seem reasonable.
I don’t think it will lift high enough to get the front wheels off the ground.
That doesn’t sound like a good idea to me. The car raised at the picture frame using that jack might not be very stable side-to-side - I prefer a big floor jack for that spot.
In fact, in the garage I also use the floor jack if I want to lift using the side lift points (handy when swapping tires front to rear). I made an adapter to fit the square socket when using the floor jack there:
Tsk, tsk… all that wood, and not a bit of varnish on it.
Walker will be soooo disappointed.
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I do not have much confidence with the jacks that came with E’s. The one that came with my '68 broke while jacking at the jack pad point under the sill. It is like the one in the link below and broke the weld on the plate where the jack screw goes thru. This was on perfectly flat concrete. Scared me to death but luckily caused no damage to the car or me. Notice at even $1000 the ad says it is for display only. I bought used one for a Series 3 and do not trust it either. I ended up getting a scissor jack with a large pad footprint and a long handle to use in an emergency on the road. I do not want to use the pad under the sill anymore either. My 2 cents.
https://xks.com/i-23897204-jaguar-e-type-4-2-cantilever-jack-c25183.html?ref=category:1207187
David
68 E-type FHC
Need to find a Jack that fits in the tire compartment. Any body tried a inflatable bag jack
Only jack worth considering is the one from the Porsche 944 turbo. It is a scissor jack that will fit under the E-Type with a flat tyre, is ultra light, very strong and with only a small modification to the foot fits the stock mounting shoe. Better still they seem to sell for about $50. This is the one you want, labelled ‘Porsche 944’ and ‘944 turbo’; note long handle with black plastic hub on hooked end:
12.87 = date of manufacture and will vary:
File this to a square shape; width is OK but it is a bit too long:
A grand total 163,192 cars in the 944 family were produced between 1982 and 1991 so finding a jack should not be difficult. The jacks are works of art and you will not believe how light they are. Should be standard fit for all S1/2 cars that will be used. The Metallifacture jack should be used for display only!
The Porsche jack is so strong you can use it to jack the car under any appropriate point the foot will safely fit. You can also adapt a rubber pad to fit the foot e.g.
Telescopic bottle jacks will not fit so don’t waste your money!
David
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Thanks for the recommendation - I just ordered one. I never was comfortable in this scenario:
A word of caution - many of the eBay listings say Porsche 944 but the fitting on the top of the jack is different and not easily suited to an E-Type jack point:
Also, many of the listings do not include the handle.
Thanks again David for the tip.
My local “Pull-a-Part” salvage yard has a crate of similar jacks from a multitude of different cars, all for $10 each including a handle. Most would require a bit of modification to the lifting face though.
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Pumped up my tires for the winter.
Front tire was flat by morning. Realized front sits pretty low with a flat. On the road it would really be a bad situation. Your scissor jack option sounds like it’s small enough but yet strong enough to do the job. Thanks for the tip
Yes Geo, that Porsche jack with the slot will not fit.
The 944 jack was also supplied with the 911 (1974-1989).
Almost any after-market scissor jack crank handle will work and they are widely available for about $10. I suggest you avoid this Porsche 993/996 jack as it is too short to lift the E-Type to a sufficient height:
Some observations on the original jack. I’ve owned a number of these over the years, and succeeded in damaging them all at one point or another. The damage consisted primarily in bending the front plate that the screw goes through and then in breaking the welds that hold the plate to the side channels. In one instance on a rewelded jack I bent the beam that goes up with the car. Invariably this type of damage also damages (breaks or cracks) the external bearing race that the ball bearings run in that takes the load of the car. Why does this happen? Well it always occurs when trying to use the jack with the beam in a flat or nearly flat position, or maybe better put, too flat of a position for the load.
When flat or too flat the mechanics of the jack put all the load on the plate - in other words the plate and it’s welds take virtually all the weight of the car as the screw tries to push the beam entirely and then mostly rearward. Mechanical advantage is at it’s worst here. If you start the jack with the beam at say 30 degrees up the problem goes away. Unfortunately the Jaguar manual says nothing about this.
Repaired Jacks - .The front plate and beam is not available AFIK. Most everything else is from Richard Smith in England. I’ve straightened both the plates (and rewelded them) and the beam but they will undoubtedly be weaker so using the jacks is a risky operation. On one I reinforced the front plate by welding in a 1/8" plate, which should be ok.
I’ve abandoned using these jacks and now use ones from Audi / Volkswagen cars pictured below. .They can be had in aluminum (primarily), are small and light and very easy to use. They are rated for 960 Kgs or 2100 pounds for those speaking Imperialese. Used on the standard E Type lift point you can rotate the crank with one hand. They are typically available on E Bay for $50 or less. I weld on the standard lift bracket from the stock jack. These are available from Welsh but are somewhat expensive. As always the car must be blocked or a working parking brake activated. The base is small and the car can move forward or backward easily.
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