Greetings from the Antipodes.
Have picked up an orphaned engine that’s been sitting in the weather for 2-3 years.
The engine number – stamped along the rear of the block where it meets the bell housing on the LHS – is 8L107010-H
What can be deduced from this number? eg. year of manufacture? Sort of car it once powered? And what does that “H” suffix signify?
Some more info: it’s a fuel injected model. On the RHS of the block it says it’s a 4.2 litre. The cam shaft covers are black with silver ‘ribs’. The head is unpainted alloy. The sump/ pan is unpainted alloy. Automatic transmission. Letters “N5” cast into the lower LHS of the block. Letters “P41300E” cast into the upper RHS of the block. And is that a Leyland logo I see stamped nearby?
Tentative plan is to use the motor to power a boat. First I have to get it cleaned up and running. Wish me luck…
Greetings from the Antipodes.
Someone will have the exact answer, but pretty sure it’s from a late model XJ6, like the one Im using in my Jeepster hot rod.
Does it turn?
Yes, XJ6, the last major redesign and probably the best engine you can get, H means that you have the high compression ratio. 8.7:1 or so.
Good luck, and post some pictures with the boat when you’re getting there!
As others have mentioned, your engine came from an XJ6. The earliest spare 4.2L XK engine that I have had was 8L131009-S and I believe that it came from a 1982-1983 XJ6. So your engine came from an earlier car.
If you are curious as to what month and year your engine came from you can log onto www.xj6data.com and search through the cars listed for engine serial numbers close to yours.
I just had a look and it seems the 8L was introduced late in S2 production, but with fuel injection only in the USA and probably then with lower compression, it seems to be an early S3 engine with the early style of fuel injection rail and a non-tuftrided (I think) crankshaft, which means it could be ground if it was ever needed.
These 4.2 had slots milled between the cylinders and are less prone to cracking.
Thanks Paul, your verdict seems more or less confirmed by the chaps below. I was told it turns, but for $100 I wasn’t going to be that fussy Need to get a 1 1/4" socket to turn the sucker over. Might just hook a battery up and see what happens, after I’ve squirted a bit of oil in the pots, etc.
Just drained the oil today, pulled a few plugs for a peek, etc. Oil was chocolate-milky, suggesting a blown head gasket. Small amount of water followed by the oil. Water cooling system appears to be fairly clean. Plugs all looked fine, no oil fouling, etc. No debris came out in the oil, although dropping the sump would be more definitive. I’m starting to feel optimistic…
Thanks David, I think the engine is actually in reasonable condition. Only problem I can deduce so far is a likely blown head gasket. But some compression testing may be in order. At this stage my focus will be on getting the engine sorted and running well. If that happens, then I will be keeping my eye out for some appropriate engine-less boat, something nice for cruising the Swan River here in Perth with a bit of style.
Look at the head studs down by the frost plugs. Remove one of the plugs in the rear, below the second to last pair of head studs. You will both see the amount of crap in there and how the condition of the studs and plugs is.
You‘ll see the rest when you‘ve removed the head - you need the cam shaft setting tool. The timing chain tensioner tool is not needed, needle nose pliers do it better.
Anyways for $100 I think you did very well!
Thanks Paul, I’ll check out that xj6data website; I’d like to narrow down the year as much as possible. The more info. the better, esp. when you’re a newbie to a scene and you have to start ordering parts. Cheers, Mike.
It’s a 1 5/16" socket.
Cheers for that, will buy both:+1: