I’ve been here with convertibles, but this one has been folded for 40 years and it is stiff as heck, worse I’ve seen. I’m soaking the rivets but so far I’ve gotten it half unfolded before it jams up tight. If I pull any harder I’m going to bend something.
Anyone been there - done that? What worked to loosen them up?
Has anyone riveted the bows back together having given up on the original rivets? (A daunting proposition) How about barrel nuts (sleeve nuts or sex nuts)?
I won’t be needing to install it for a year or more, but it would be nice to test-fit before disassembly.
Many times I’ve had that same issue with mine and other parts on the car ('51 OTS). When penetrating oil doesn’t do it, I just light the torch and heat the stubborn spot cherry red then let it completely cool. At that point any remaining rust just falls away like a dry powder upon movement. Of course you won’t want to do this to heat treated and/ or thin sheet metal parts. It looks like you’ll probably be repainting the frame or, “hood sticks” as the book calls it so, little worry about any burnt spots. Others may have their favorite fixes but this is what usually works for me.
Also, manipulating these XK120/140 top frames up and down is best done by two people, especially after the car is painted and the new hood material is installed. Because of the unwieldy action of the mechanism, there are many opportunities for scratched paint, upholstery dings, and squished fingers.
Well, success. I’ve had little faith in rust removers that didn’t smell awful or try to send me to the hospital, but I’m a believer now.
12 hours for each side being dunked in the stuff (Ace Hardware) and the top is moving freely, at least free enough for now. Post-paint oil at the joints will finish the job.
