While I have shocks and radius arms out, thought I’d tackle over axle fuel lines. I am working on passenger side, got both connections off, but I see way up top there is a clamp holding it that seems to have a rivet holding it to the body. Do I just pop that off, and not reclamp the new one?
And on the drivers side, I need to clamp off the return line to fuel tank in the trunk? Mine is stainless steel braided, can I still clamp it with vice grips?
OK, I re-read The Book about this, and think I know what to do. I’ll go ahead and break the clips that are holding in the metal portions of the lines.
It didn’t seem to make any difference if I clamped hose in trunk from tank to return line, no gas leaked out of tank with over axle line disconnected. Tank is 3/4 full.
Wow, Kirby is right. Replace these hoses! I was very good replacing all my fuel hoses last year, especially the high pressure ones. Can’t believe I put this one off. This hose on the high pressure side has a time stamp of Dec 1986!!! (My car is a US 88) No cracks, but still…
Alright, I’m talking to myself, but it helps 
I cleaned up the metal fuel lines, what are they made of? There seems to be a bit of pitted surface rust, should I not reuse? Will some Por15 be worth it?
First I’ve seen of this thread, Greg.
It’s a steel fuel line. Do whatever floats your boat. I do suggest, however, wrapping the rubber hose with aluminum foil when reinstalling. It’s just a bit too close to hot exhaust pipes and brake rotors for my taste.
Pretty impressive it wasn’t even weeping! You remind me though that I really need to get into the wheel arches and do mine too.
Yeah, I’ve been putting it off because it’s not very nice working in there on jackstands. With shocks, springs and radius arms out, plenty of room for my big hands and big head, so now is the time!
I’ve got plenty of leftover 225psi green Barricade fuel line from the tank work last year, although it seems like a very tight fit. 5/16" correct???
I know Kirby says to use fuel clamps, but for these cases I prefer oetiker ear clamps.
Feed line is definitely 5/16in within the trunk (and I stand corrected that the return is definitely 3/8in (went out and measured again as others say)) so I assume they would be over the cage as well yes though as I said I haven’t done mine yet.
And yeah smart to do it when there’s the room to. I just dropped my whole right side exhaust as a part of my starter replacement. Doable on stands in the driveway but a bit more clearance under there certainly would have made life easier!
If you don’t have the room for a lift, a “QuickJack 5000” is pretty slick.
Shop around though, because Costco has had them for as low as $999. I got mine from Home Depot a few weeks back for. $1048 but now they are $1499.
I haven’t done it yet, but I think you could easily unbolt a rear subframe and lift the car up off it.
Thanks, out of my budget!
Btw, why do the over axle fuel lines have a rubber section?! Both sides are connected to the body, so no movement.
?
I believe it is 3/8". Reduces to 5/16" in the engine compartment. Easy enough to measure it, though.
What is an oetiker ear clamp?
I wanna know how you got that hose to last this long. I found mine because it was pouring fuel on the floor, and that was in the 1990’s.
To maintain Jaguar’s reputation for car fires?
I found an earlier post that also says
3/8", thanks. That 1/16" difference is hard to tell just looking.
I don’t know. I’m amazed to find some things on this car still original and in decent shape. I think the PO kept the car in the garage most of it’s life, only drove it 48000 miles, and our Seattle weather is quite mild, in that the extremes are not that bad. I think it’s also the NW dampness? Unfortunately, I’ve found a lot of electrical corrosion, but maybe the dampness keeps the rubber supple?
Ok, got them in. Wow, that was not fun on jackstands! Took me an hour and a half!
