I am getting frustrated with my gunmetal paint. I stir it up and it starts to separate as soon as I stop stirring. This is in the gallon can, not the mixing cup, so there is no reducer yet. Very tricky to spray an even coat. I’m doing very thin coats.
Somebody suggested I give the job to a professional, but apart from the fact that a professional job is what I’m taking off, because it was no good, I counted up the number of pieces that are body color.
A Mark V saloon with side vents and without trafficators is 37 separate items that get body color. I can imagine a shop losing something.
No question here, just discouraged because its nearly winter and my front wings are not yet painted.
Rob
I suppose it depends on type of paint . We always use 2 pack. We paint components ourselves, but always have the body panels done professionally in an oven
I can’t see whee a paint shop would lose parts to. They aren’t going get mixed up and used onanother customer’s Toyota.
Here’s a pic of a M IV we had done in Gunmetal,at a paint shop. MY cousin who ran a smash repair business once said to me that his painters were bette r than those at restoration places, His were spraying 8 hours a day, restoration places, maybe once a week.
Rob there are some paints that scream for an agitator gun.
They make then in the old fashioned format and HVLP.
Basically, it’s the same gun but there is a stirrer inside the cup that goes constantly to keep the paint agitated.
Before you say it’s expensive, isn’t your paint expensive?
These are the types of paint the guns were designed.
Rob,
One of the tricks I’ve used on heavy metal flake paint jobs on custom cars is to put 2-3 marbles or clean nuts in the paint cup. Then when you finish making a pass give the gun a little shake before the next pass.
1 Like