Another, “NO” !!
The brakes are inboard. Removing the rear wheels will reveal little if anything…
Respectfully, of course.
Carl
Carl
Lou,
as Carl pointed out rightly - the road wheels have little to do with your issues.
Even on wheels there should be a sensible difference between a locked parking pawl (slight play; rocking back and forth possible, then like running against a kind of “wall” - for lack of better desciption) and a frozen brake (well … feeling just frozen, I guess). For tests I’d leave the car on its wheels first for the rocking test, then in the air and feeling the wheels themselves.
If you have a lift you should also be able to check for binding rear brake pads visually. And yes, with a good light and a little mirror you can even check whether the handbrake pads are binding.
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
List:
This PM I removed the USA side intake side rear wheel, added a jack stand under the wheel hub for safety and the reached in with a used hack saw blade and was able to slide the blade in between the friction pad and caliper assembly. I could easily slide it in at least one inch. I assume that means the caliper was not pressing against friction pad?
The wheel hub will not turn. The transmission is in neutral. Is there a more conclusive test of the brakes being locked?
However, it occurred to me last night that a few weeks ago I installed the rebuilt master brake cylinder and the necessary brake fluid , which I pump Into the master cylinder by pumping the break pedal. Could this have locked the brakes?
Thanks
Lou
Go with Carl, Jochen and Frank - put the wheel back on and see if there is any freeplay in the driveline. Try to rock it.
If freeplay, remove the driveshaft to move it and if none, you have to look at the brakes: All four on the rear!
David
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Not in itself, Lou - the elasticity in the piston seals is meant to retract the pistons when the brake pressure drops on pedal release. And in any case; considerable pressure is required for any braking effect. Rust is the only viable cause - and there would then be no disc movement whatsoever.
And nothing could be inserted between pads and disc and still holding…
Inspect the shift lever at the gearbox for motion when moving the gear lever is moved. And have you tried moving the gear lever all the way to ‘1’ to possibly move anything. The car is perfectly ‘pushable’ in gear…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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If by some cause, they are fluid locked, just crack the bleeders and relieve the PSI’s.
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indeed, the car will roll if in Drive or R. Unless for a mysterious reason, the torque converter is “locked”.
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Lou, just drop the drive shaft! four bolts!!!
Carl
Gentlemen:
With limited time and warm weather again today, I only managed to get the rear wheel back in place and straightened up the garage.
So on to the next time.
Carl: You suggested that “crack the bleeders”. Where are they, can I access them with the rear wheels in place or should remove the rear wheels, or can I access them from the back of the car?
I’m also going to get some help to “rock”the car before I do anything. I assume that if the gear selector is in N or D and the emergency brake off, no harm should result no matter how hard we push the car.
You also suggest I crack thee bleeders. Where are they and how to I access them; remove a tire or other?
If that does not work, where are the four bolts that holds the drive shaft in place? I did sturdy the shop manual and their drawings of the drive shaft are complex, at least to me.
Frank: I will inspect the gear shift lever as you suggested. I must say however, that the movement of the gear shift feels perfectly normal in terms of the movability and how it feels as I move it around.
You suggest I inspect the gearbox while someone moves the gear shift, say from reverse to “1”. Can I view that from the back, or side or front of the rear without removing the rear tires? Again, I’m working on the floor.
P.S. I just remembered that I have a set of ramps that if the car was running, I could drive up. However, I may be able to lift the car, one rear wheel at a time using the floor jack and put the car on the level portion of the ramps. That would allow me to move around under the car with greater ease and security.
Another thought just occlude to me. Assuming all the above is completed without any success, suppose I put the back end of the car on the two ramps, on the downward slope? That would put the weight of the car on the ramp, say 1/3 of the way up the slop. I could do that with the emergency brake on, and then sit in the drivers seat to release the brake? And I could put the wooden wheel chocks a foot or so in front of the front wheels to help stop forward movement?
Regards
Lou
Lou, in an earlier post you mentioned that you slid a hack saw blade between the disc and one of the pads. If this is the case then cracking the bleed nipples will have no effect. I must admit the lack of knowing where bleed nipples are is a concern to me.
As far as the four nuts and bolts on the drive shaft goes, they should be patently obvious once you are on your back under the car (supported by axle stands) but for clarity here is what you are looking for;
This shows a twelve point nut but the Jag should only be a six point.
https://images.app.goo.gl/AXWD2BzeBKnw4Jcv9
This is a picture of the bleed nipple location it’s item number 6
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Negative, Lou…
…if you push the car hard enough with the parking pawl engaged - serious damage can occur. It s vital to find out if the pawl is engaged - and disconnecting the propeller shaft will at least take the rear end out of the equation. Pawl disengaged; the shaft is ‘easily’ turned and the car pushable irrespective of stuck pawl…
The other suggestions relates to attempts to confirm binding brakes - or some diff problem…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Nah! Only on a serious slope the parking mechanism will be damaged. Parking on sloped ramps not advised if the transmission is not ruled out.
Lou, for answers to all your questions secure the car really well, i.e. on the ramps, and disconnect the driveshaft as per Carl, etc. so you can move it, hopefully.
Jack it up and place it on ramps. OK, to a point. do not rely on the parking brake for safety !!! DON’T ASK!!!
But, that will inhibit determining if the rear differential and assembly can turn freely!!!
Invest in a “good” pair of hack stands. Jack it up and from behind., Trolley jack, I hope.The center of the differential cage is good. A block of wood to protect the "tin’ flanges… Chock a front wheel front and back.
Shake the car to insure that it is stabile.
Now you can work under it.
There is a two pice shaft that is connected to the rear of the transmission on one end and to the differential on the other. four bolts on the rear, “more convenient”. Remove and the transmission will no longer be connected to the differential. Unless something something is wrong back there, you can turn a wheel by hand.
Note: if both wheels turn in the same direction, your car is equipped with alimited slip differential. A good thing.
If the opposite wheel turns the other way, it is an “open” unit. OK, most are…
Now, if that acquits the rear, go up front. Left side of the trans facing forward. The lever that “works” the internals is there.
Mission: Does that lever respond to commands from the shift ever in the car??? It may not!!! busted cable.
Trans remains in park, no matter where the shift lever is… I suspect that is what you have.
My car had a hissy at the store day before yesterday. Came home on a flat bed. Crank issue??? Again!!
It is hot, so when I and the weather cool down, I’ll address it.
Good hunting !!!
Carl…
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I am happy to report that the car is now movable.
It occurred to me that the hand brake was the likely culprit. It might have been in the “brake on” mode for months.
I gave the cabin handle two or three hard pulls and heard something pop and was able to push the car forward.
Thanks again for the guidance.
Lou
Good News:
Upon arrival at the garage today, I reviewed the procedures and tools I would need to remove the drive shaft. I was not looking forward to it.
Before I began however, It occurred to me that the parking brake might be the source of the problem. After all, I probably engaged the brake when I pulled the car into the garage a year or two ago, and had not touched it since. So I got in the drives seat and gave it a strong tug, let it off, another tug, and let it out, and one more and let it out. On the third release, I heard what sounded like a pop.
I got out of the car was was able to push it a few feet forward.
Thanks for all the assistance.
Regards
Lou
Yippy Yay, cayee!!!
At times the answer is easy, a simple one!!!
And not only have you solved the immediate issue, moving the car, you have acquitted other assemblies.
And confirmed that the hand brake in your car is effective. Many are not, don’t ask!!!
Carl