Pertronix install question S3 V12

I am installing a Petronix Electronic Ignition in my Series 3, V12 and need help! I removed the distributor cap and the rotor as per the instructions. Then they say to remove the plastic plate and the trigger. As per the instructions, removed the Circlip and the washer from the slotted steel rod that goes through the plastic plate and to which the rotor is mounted. I have not been able to remove the circular plastic plate despite pulling and prying on it. Before I continue is there something holding the plate on that I should remove or just pry harder. The Workshop Manual is not much help as it just says remove the complete distributor by taking out the Allen screws that are accessible through the 3 oval openings in the plastic plate. If I do that, I will have to go through all the steps to make sure the rotor is aligned with the TDC of cylinder one etc. Would prefer to follow the Petronix instructions which just call for replacing the plastic plate with one from the kit. Any insight would be appreciated!

I can’t believe someone with a V12 hasn’t jumped in to help you.

Not to worry John, I found help on another forum and managed to get the plastic disc off! It was seized right on and took a fair amount of prying. I guess the clue should have been that a circlip was used to hold it down if it was loose. The rest of the installation is going well so will see if it works when done.

Jet, your correct that heat swells and cruds up that ring.
I think you will be happy with the petronix.’
I had one of the first sets ever built for my 1954 mercury 30years later and all my other cars and Jags.
They are great.
Good luck.
Make sure you have the matching coil.
gtjoey1314

Hi just a quick note i fitted my v12 with a petronix i had a problem with tacho reading wrong i got a wiring diagram from petronix but still no joy i have had to wire a resistor in to wiring to coil if u have same problem message me and i will check what rating resistor i used i bought it on ebay i had to buy 5 very cheap
Regards Rob

Thanks Rob. Just got finishing install and the car fired right up! Took it for a short ride and it is running great. But my tach is not working so would appreciate your information with resistor rating and location in wiring.

Thanks! Larry

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Hi i will look into it and let u know before weekend
Regards Rob

My son installed a Pertronix an hs ancient Case tractor. it runs smooooth!!!

Guy next door is installing one on his 69 Ford 4x4.
360 Ford FE V8. Not one of ford’s best ideas!!!
Heavy and low on power!!

Tough, though!
Carl

Thanks Rob. I see in one of the old posts that a member said his problems were solved after connecting the Blue and White wire from the Tach to the negative pole of the coil. Hmmm…

Larry

I looked tonight and my system is wired that way but it read wrong i fitted a resister in that line it is ebay item no 111777815515 and i chose the middle resistance trial n error which way round
Regards Rob

Thanks Robert, I will try adding a resister in that blue and white wire connected to the Neg pole of the coil.

Larry

Robert,

That is not a resistor. It’s a 1A Silicon Rectifier Diode 1N4001 to 1N4007 (from the description). Hence the need to get it the right way round. Someone of a higher pay grade than myself can say if and why it might work…

-David

New guy here with S3 V12, I installed a Pertronix (LU1122A) pickup last year and their 3.0 ohm flamethrower coil.

After removing the ballast resistor. I added a 10K ohm resistor between coil- and RPM gauge wire (rpm seems accurate).

Terrys Jaguar has a listing for the Pertronix pickup, it states the following near the bottom of the page…

"…Please note: Fitting this kit to an XKE V12, E-type Series 3 its necessary to install a 9 to 10K ohm resistor in between the tachometer trigger wire to prevent the tach from reading double…

https://www.terrysjag.com/product/LU1122A.html …"

Best wishes.

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Thanks for the tip Marley. Will give it a try when I get the car running again. I measured the resistance on the Lucas coil and it read 1.5 OHMs which is the same as the Pertronix coil so I went with it and bypassed the ballast resister as per the instructions. The car started right up and ran well. Took it for a short drive and, with the exception of the tach, all seemed well. Parked it in the garage overnight but the next morning, it turned over well but would not fire. Have ordered a 1.5 OHM Flamethrower coil and will give it a try. Unsure what is going on.

GUYS THE BALLAST RESISTER SHOULD BE COMPLETELY REMOVED.
Opps soory caps

Once the Amplifier is removed, the Ballast doesnt feed the distributor or anything else according to the wiring diagram. The instructions with the Pertronix kit shows black wire running through the ballast before connecting to the coil. It says to remove the ballast if using a 1.5 OHM Flamethrower coil. As the original Lucas coil is 1.5 OHMs also, I presumed that it would work but for some reason, the ignitor quit working after the original 15 minutes of running. Burned out? Or faulty?

Hi sorry carnt tell u the correct way as i shrink wrapped it into the loom my car had a non standard electronic ignition on when i bought it with a resistor/diode wired in i just carried it forward to the petronix system when i got inaccurate tacho readings then i replaced the resistor/diode when the wire broke next to it
Regards Robert

Jet,the ballast would collapse the current in the line as it should .
That’s why it has to be removed.
Old ballast would direct ALL current to the points for a hot spark, then shut off and regular current and condenser so the points don’t burn up.
Your spiking the petronix or weak signaling with a ballast.
good luck
gtjoey1314

Sorry if I wasn’t clear but I bypassed the ballast and just connected the two wires from the Pertronix as indicated in the instructions. I have received the Flamethrower coil so will try replacing the Lucas coil and see if the car will fire. Thanks anyway.

Larry

Great to hear jet…