There is a large flat washer, and a spring washer, on top.
You seem to have been supplied radiator mounting bushes. This is common. They are thicker. You will need to cut them down or you’ll never get the original bolts in.
Putting in the 3 bolts, especially the front left hand one, is difficult.
Before you start make sure all 3 captive nuts are scrupulously clean and lubricated with WD40 or similar. If in any doubt run a tap down them, and make certain that you can easily screw the bolt into the thread with your fingers.
I use cyanoacrylate glue to stick the rubber mounts firmly to the tank with the spacer piece in situ.
Wangle the tank in with the removable (centre front) mount bracket not installed. Once you have the tank in place install the bracket.
I then usually try to get the difficult bolt in first, as you have the most leeway to move the tank about.
The issue is getting the bolt vertical and concentric with the captive nut while being hindered by lack of access and vision.
The original bolts are pointed. This may or may not make it easier to get the thread started.
On occasion I have used a longer bolt with the end 10mm or so of the thread machined off to give the bolt just slightly less than the ID of the nut. The narrower straight section drops into the captive nut and helps aid getting the bolt concentric.
Hi. I pulled my '69 E-type tank about a week ago. Took a bit over an hour. I happened to have a snap-on swivel socket that allowed the socket to sit properly on the bolt and still had room to use an extension and a ratchet, The bracket on the bulkhead has to come off before slidinig the tank, as does the 2 hoses on the filler neck. Most of the Jag parts dealers show the bolts and rubber mounts. Good luck, Martyn
Just changed to a new galvanized tank from SNG. Quality piece but did have a bit of a smile reading “Made in Taiwan” on top of the tank. Follow the comments above, use the correct bolts, sleeves, washers & a swivel socket and its a very easy job.
Yes if someone used the fat ones on a radiator, they’d punch holes in their bonnet when they closed it. They fat ones do work with the tank. I had to put all my weight on it though to get the bolts started. I also had to have a partner loosen the rear mount to get that one started. I think I used thin fender washers but no spring washer. They’re under so much compression, they aren’t going anywhere.
edit: if one wanted to use spring washers, it would be easiest I think to get everything mounted and let it sit for a couple days, then come back and add the washers one bolt at a time.
They are however not the right ones. If you look up the part on their website they actually have a note for the thinner rubbers, with a different part number.
I’ve had them send me the fat ones a number of times. I don’t know whether they are of a harder material, but using them makes a difficult job harder. I cut them down by about 1/3. All they need do is be the same height as the distance tube.
just put in my first hour, having difficulty getting filler hose on then I noticed that I knocked the overflow drain off and feeling blindly…I find the drain hose is split at the top. So…tank gotta come out. I was 1/4 inch away.
How did you get the fill hose on when you slid the tank in?