Petrol tank mounting bolts

I have looked on SNG and J37 and find no washers on the rubbers that fit the tank mounting bolts. Is that correct?

How long are the bolts and sleeves supposed to be?

I bolted the bushes in one tank ear with fender washers just to squish them and after doing that…the sleeve is still shorter than the combined height of two bushings and the ear.

Is that correct? just looks wrong.

Old vs new:

Cannot recall the dimensions of the rubber mounts but it’s not unusual to find people have confused radiator mounts with tank mounts.

It looks like you have one of each in your picture.

I believe the tank mounts are the thicker ones.

Regarding the sleeves, the idea is that the mounts can be fully tightened, that means compressing the mount until it contacts the sleeve. Again, sorry can’t recall the dimensions of said sleeve.

I would use a washer to prevent tearing the mount.

I believe there’s a washer on the top iirc if you don’t get a happy answer email me and I’ll dig mine out and tell you the dimensions etc with a pic

There is a large flat washer, and a spring washer, on top.

You seem to have been supplied radiator mounting bushes. This is common. They are thicker. You will need to cut them down or you’ll never get the original bolts in.

Putting in the 3 bolts, especially the front left hand one, is difficult.

Before you start make sure all 3 captive nuts are scrupulously clean and lubricated with WD40 or similar. If in any doubt run a tap down them, and make certain that you can easily screw the bolt into the thread with your fingers.

I use cyanoacrylate glue to stick the rubber mounts firmly to the tank with the spacer piece in situ.

Wangle the tank in with the removable (centre front) mount bracket not installed. Once you have the tank in place install the bracket.

I then usually try to get the difficult bolt in first, as you have the most leeway to move the tank about.

The issue is getting the bolt vertical and concentric with the captive nut while being hindered by lack of access and vision.

The original bolts are pointed. This may or may not make it easier to get the thread started.

On occasion I have used a longer bolt with the end 10mm or so of the thread machined off to give the bolt just slightly less than the ID of the nut. The narrower straight section drops into the captive nut and helps aid getting the bolt concentric.

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Great idea they can be a bear to start

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Hi. I pulled my '69 E-type tank about a week ago. Took a bit over an hour. I happened to have a snap-on swivel socket that allowed the socket to sit properly on the bolt and still had room to use an extension and a ratchet, The bracket on the bulkhead has to come off before slidinig the tank, as does the 2 hoses on the filler neck. Most of the Jag parts dealers show the bolts and rubber mounts. Good luck, Martyn

Here you go.

I can highly recommend the SNG Barratt website Bill.

Just changed to a new galvanized tank from SNG. Quality piece but did have a bit of a smile reading “Made in Taiwan” on top of the tank. Follow the comments above, use the correct bolts, sleeves, washers & a swivel socket and its a very easy job.

I checked with Frank at SNG and the fatter ones in the pic are what they supply for the tank. He suggested I may want to purposely use radiator mounts: C8975

If I reach the point of insanity, I will try that.

No one mentioned if I have to take off the trunk latch mechanism. I believe I do. Is that correct? If so, that really annoys

Yes if someone used the fat ones on a radiator, they’d punch holes in their bonnet when they closed it. They fat ones do work with the tank. I had to put all my weight on it though to get the bolts started. I also had to have a partner loosen the rear mount to get that one started. I think I used thin fender washers but no spring washer. They’re under so much compression, they aren’t going anywhere.

edit: if one wanted to use spring washers, it would be easiest I think to get everything mounted and let it sit for a couple days, then come back and add the washers one bolt at a time.

Plus 1 for SNG. Wouldn’t use the cheap spring washer, they look like HF stuff. If SNG delivery is too slow for you maybe try Fastenal,

Ha. SNG is bullet fast. Call by 10 M-W and get in stock item the next day!

No. I have never had to do that.

Yes, usually, but if you read the poster’s chart of SNG parts you’d have noticed that the decent spring washer is NOT IN STOCK - SPECIAL ORDER!

So yes, you and I are on the same page as far is in stock stuff goes but special order, not unreasonably, takes longer Bill.

For an OTS you have to take it off. Not sure about the FHC or 2+2.

They are however not the right ones. If you look up the part on their website they actually have a note for the thinner rubbers, with a different part number.

I’ve had them send me the fat ones a number of times. I don’t know whether they are of a harder material, but using them makes a difficult job harder. I cut them down by about 1/3. All they need do is be the same height as the distance tube.

&*/# !!!

Do the thinner ones make the tank sit too low??? Will it contact the body work?

I looked up the number from the part diagram, clicked on the pic and it gave me the number…set up to fail.

Frank said the thick ones “crush” to the right height.

Maybe try a thick and a thin. I had no more than an hour of grunting to get it to work with the fat ones they sent though.

just put in my first hour, having difficulty getting filler hose on then I noticed that I knocked the overflow drain off and feeling blindly…I find the drain hose is split at the top. So…tank gotta come out. I was 1/4 inch away.

How did you get the fill hose on when you slid the tank in?

The only word that comes to mind was struggle. It was probably the hardest part.