Phosphoric acid? Yea or Nay?

Nice! A channeled camper…:+1:t2:

Our local paint shop recommended a DTM primer sealer. They’re pretty sharp there and very helpful

When I do get to the top parts of the restoration, I will be going with a SS paint. BC/CC paint jobs just don’t do it for me. Depending on who is doing the painting, there will likely be some wet sanding involved along the way.

Yes, according to ppg you aren’t supposed to have feathered epoxy, but surface is to be uniform epoxy.

Nickolas, just so that I understand. You sprayed that with SS Urethane and then cut it prior to finish buffing?

Re the original question regarding phosphoric acid, here’s PPG’s 154 page Restoration Guide which can be downloaded as a .pdf.if anyone wants it.

https://us.ppgrefinish.com/Training/Tech-Tips/Guides-Manuals/Custom-Restoration-Guide

BTW, the 579 solution metal treatment is not just phosphoric acid. It’s a a zinc phoshphate solution and this has the effect of chemically forming a lattice-like grid surface integral to the steel which enhances paint adhesion by providing a secure mechanical key.

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Nice job with those long flat sides on the XK, Nick. I know how difficult that is to achieve. Nobody can argue with dead straight strip light reflections.

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Correct, John. I used PPG DCC Concept single stage urethane - unfortunately being phased out, I expect at least partially due to its higher than kosher VOC rating. Already nla in most NA jurisdictions. Recommended application is three wet coats followed by gradually finer wetsandings. I go 1200 till there’s no trace of orange peel then 1500-2000-2500 before hitting it with a slightly damp wool bonnet and high-cut compound at low rpm. Max 1000. After the 1200 you’re essentially cutting smaller scratches into progressively finer ones. Second cut with the buffer is with fine compound and slightly damp foam bonnet at 2000 rpm. Third cut is with a new, slightly damp foam bonnet using cornstarch paste at 2000-2500 rpm.

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Veering off topic a bit. But, I am planning on doing the same when I get to that point with the possibility of doing a handful of layers of clear which would be cut and buffed too.

why not, it’s where the Brits got most of their engines

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Well, the TR4 anyway.

But then the XK engine was also used in a small army tank.

Hard to beat those fire pump engines…:wink: