Does anyone have a picture of a wired up lower bonnet valence for a series 1 3.8 with horns in the valence? I need some help here. Schematics just dont do it for me.
Jim,
Here are some shots I saved from the web. Credit to the original photograp[hers is impossible since I don’t recall where they came from.
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Thanks John. I need these photos too as my car and bonnet has been disassembled for painting. While my current 51 year old harness is not in bad shape, since it has been removed I think it is probably best to replace it.
–Drew
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Thanks so much John! Very helpful.
John, how did you terminate the wires in the aftermarket round connector? I found that the the screws would cut into the individual strands of wire and didn’t seem secure.
Anthony
I’ve had trouble with that connector too. I soldered the ends of the wire to make them solid and stiff, that helped make a good connection but BEWARE!!! do not over tighten the little brass screws, the heads will break off and leave you with a useless connection. To fix that you’ll need to solder the wire end into the pin, but without the screw head, the pin wants to pull through, so add a small cable tie to the wire behind the connector body to hold the pin in place.
Have you tried soldering the wire into the pin? I was thinking it might melt the black plastic.
John or others:
last two pics: 2 question-last pi:, where can I get a replacement screw/bolt that has a rivet style head and embedded through sheet metal-they hold on the plastic electric junction block. Mine were rusted and one twisted off when I tried to remove the nut. Very small diameter about 2" flat head “bolt”. Also, next to last picture: where can I get the crossover “junction box” and the headlight connector to the right? Mine are rotten toast.
Jim,
I tried to reply on my phone and I guess it didn’t post to the forum. I used a pan head bolt of the same diameter and thread as the other stud to replace the one that broke off on mine. Drill out the original stud and install the bolt in it’s place. Nothing to it.
John,
GREAT pic’s sir! Question…I’ve been told that the aftermarket 9 pin connector (both male and female) aren’t as good as the originals. Have any insights into the good or bad of that claim?
Les, I agree that the aftermarket replacement connector is not as robust as the originals, but the new pins and sockets are gold plated vs. the “tinned” originals, so they are less prone to corrosion over time. When mated, the aftermarket doesn’t seem to be a positive a connection either so I worry about vibration causing issues. I helped out at two restoration shops in my area and they both used the aftermarket connectors, so they must be worthy of their trust. I refurbished my original connector and soldered it onto my new harness however and mine is working fine so far (3.5 years).
Thank you will do. It’s a 6-32 and found a ss one at local Ace Hareware.
John, they look to me like solid brass not gold plated with the original pins being silver plated. And silver corrosion is a very good conductor. Maybe that’s why the originals worked so well. At least that’s how they appeared to me. Unless there are different aftermarket and original connectors.
Anthony
John, they look to me like solid brass not gold plated with the original pins being silver plated. And silver corrosion is a very good conductor. Maybe that’s why the originals worked so well. At least that’s how they appeared to me. Unless there are different aftermarket and original connectors.
Anthony
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Anthony, you’re probably right, they would be brass. It’s been a while and I’m not working any more, so I mistakenly called them gold. If the originals were silver plated that would be a shock to me, they didn’t look like silver to me.