Positive camber?

I’m putting a new set of Michelin Pilote X 6.00 x 16 radials on my XK-140 MC OTS. The old Dunlops had a broken belt creating a longitudnal bulge and needed to be replaced. The shop has modern alignment equipment and asked if I would like them to set the alignment specs while they’re at it. I’ve researched my manuals and this forum and found the following specs.

Camber: positive 3/4 degree +/- 1/4
Toe: 0 - 1/8 in
Caster: 1 3/4 degree, +/- 1/4

The positive camber bothers me and seems inappropriate for a sporting car. I’m not really concerned with tire wear and would much rather have a responsive car to steering input and less understeer. Consequently, I’m thinking of going the other way to 1/2 degree negative. Has anyone tried negative camber? What do you guys use for a “sporting” set up? Is there any information on a race set up?

On the XK120 I haven’t gone there yet but I am just about to get my 76 Fiat spider back on the road and the specs said positive camber same as the Jag. We have changed it to same figure negative camber. It will corner better but it also means it will require constant driver input. Positive camber makes the car easier to drive as a daily driver.
Matt

seeing no replies thus far,I offer this,back in the day positive camber was often a spec, for rough road stability, and the suspension/tires of the day, While I trust that Jaguar knew what they were doing, I did some on line study and decided that at least 1 degree negative would be worth a try, with no real downside, BTW , in forum posts I have seen some confusion,Negative is when the top of the wheel is inward toward the the car, thus in corners providing more tread contact, less tread roll, (Some make an allowance on one side for road crown, if a drive on riht, then it is ,5 to 1 de more Negative on the right side, I did not find anything definitive (other than Manual specs) in these XK forum archives, Nick

That agrees with what I have read in other sources, positive for easier steering in non-racing driving. Racing mechanics would of course pay no attention to the street specs, but would tweak it for each track.

FWIW the camber on Mark V is 1-3/4 to 2 degrees positive, and on the '36-48 beam axle cars where it is not adjustable the camber is 2 deg for the 1.5 Litre and 2-1/2 deg for the 2-1/2 and 3-1/2 Litre cars.

in the CAFE fuel mileage days,mild positive was used for better fuel mileage,my Vette had positive and handling/corner was awful.,can’t use manual specs. Duntov Racing supplied realistic specs,.,switch from positive to Negative , with some toe in, and max of the castor,

My ‘64 Cobra 289 (transverse leaf springs front and rear) originally had +2deg front and -1.5deg rear. Go figure, as the Americans would no doubt say.
It now has -1.5 at both ends.

it is quite complicated as suspension design, whether unequal A Arms, McPherson struts, the steering axis, anti-roll bars, and much more, all play a role in what happens to the camber when under cornering loads, and race car engineers have to talk with drivers all the time to have feedback on what the car is actually doing, Specs alone can only do so much, N%20Camber%20Red%20Bull%20RB9 Here is some negative camber, So what to do,if it is Neative Camber you want, well besides track tests,use a quality probe thermometer, measure immediately after a sporty and twisty drive,have 2 assistants to measure as soon as stopped,temps of tread inside, middle and outer tread, Inside tread should be about 10 F de warmer than outside, (If middle is warmest,pressure is too hi,re-set, re -do) If positive is desired,opposite on temps order,
Nick