Ahh, that makes sense. That’s why it’s sometimes wise to clear archives in the current forum, because old misinformation can prove wrong. I just saw a lot of posts saying how quickly their red mounts broke down, and someone said they used black and didn’t have that problem, and all the new ones I see for sale now are black.
I got mine out with a pair of sockets and some threaded rod and nuts. However, it is admittedly an iffy proposition, primarily because most sockets have slightly rounded corners that might get cockeyed against the OEM mounts. If you’re willing to take the one socket that’s the right size and grind the end to make it perfectly square, it’d be a snap.
OK, now that’s interesting. It makes you wonder if that’s the influence of this forum.
but there ARE differences in color, right?
I always thought orange was softest, then I think red, then blue, then black was the hardest? It’s definitely been my experience.
That orange bushing for my trans mount was the first orange poly I’ve bought. I couldn’t believe how soft and squishy it was, compared to blues and blacks that I’ve purchased previously.
Do you expect that the differences in color would make a difference in the effect of exposure to hydrocarbons?
no, the difference in color is how strong the poly material is. So under stress, a soft orange one will tear easier than a hard black one. The only reason for the softer orange is to absorb more vibration.
IF installed properly, any color poly bushing would be plenty strong to hold up to the stresses of holding the steering rack in place. Of course, if it’s not installed properly – not properly spaced with fender washers especially – the banging around of the rack would tear up the poly regardless of which hardness is involved.
I would expect that softer might be good, as even red poly is already an order of magnitude stiffer than the garbage OEM mounts.
I’ll bet you’re right, so many bad installations are blamed on parts. I will buy some fender washers to have on hand.
The kit I bought in 2012 had orange rubber and fender washers. That’s the reason it was difficult to get the bushings properly loaded.
Be sure and do it as I stated. Drop the rack. Then do the hoses, especially if you have a LH drive because the hoses will have to be done through the hood and not from underneath unless the rack is dropped and the hoses to the rack can be fitted from below.
Then do the bushings and then remount the rack after having separated the bosses just enough to get the bushings in.
The difference with the tougher bushings are utterly fantastic.
O.K., you guys have me scared with this P.S. talk. 
The one issue that I know for sure that is involved with my yet-to-arrive 5.3 is something being up with one of the power steering hoses. I have asked the seller what’s up with that, and he so far has not answered me. 
Apparently it must not be that bad (of a leak), as he has supposedly driven it to the inspection place as well as to the car wash w/o incident. Before it gets here, though, I would like to know if the issue is with the high pressure hose or the low pressure side one, so I can order it in advance of arrival. Is one of these two more likely to go blinky than the other one? 
I’m in the process of changing mine but I did not bother to take the original bushings out…
En plus, the two lower bushings have a big fat washer embedded on one side. Jaguar sport ?
I’ve modified the poly bushings to snugly fill the empty space. I will squeeze in a couple of washers also.
I think this will work just as good.
Good news is that you can do this gob without disconnecting the hoses or ball-joints.
I think the major advantage the poly bushes have over the stock items is the reduction in sideways play. If you already have top hat style bushes in there (maybe CBC9107 from my XJR-S parts list) they should work just as well - although that part looks be be unnecessarily expensive compared to the poly bushes CAC1635K.
Yes, the lower bushes are indeed the CBC9107, don’t now how they found their way into my 1986 XJ…!
I am pretty sure that they are original, maybe Jaguar recognized the problem and started fitting the upgraded version in all cars ?
Nevertheless, there still was some lateral movement…
The upside of the CBC9107 is that they last forever. No squeaks, no breakdown over time, they are forever parts.
Yes, mine are in perfect condition, 33 years later…
I am ading the poly boush and a washer at the empty side.
On the upper bushing (normal) I am doing the same on both sides, plus washers.
Will post some photos when it’s done
I just changed out my rack to a S3 and the upper column and the hoses. It is easier if you hook up the high pressure hose before lifting the rack back into place…just loosely tighten the hose fitting.
1 Like
Beautiful. That rack ain’t goin’ nowhere. Please tell us how it drives.
I will, but still working on the car, changing oil pan gasket and sealing the sandwich plate screws.
Drove the car today.
Steering is more responsive with no noticeable difference in harshness. (Haven’t tested it yet on a dirt road)
The biggest difference is how the steering wheel now willingly returns to dead straight and stays there.
At the same time though I adjusted the Camber on both wheels that was all over the place and put some new grease in the rack, so it might be an accumulative effect.