We are currently restoring a LHD DHC Mk IV .
Because of the location of the steering column . these have
the oil filter mounted remotely { exactly like post war
Rileys.]
The integrity of the flexible oil line s is very important as
the supply the only oil feed to the bearings .
So leaving the original70 year old originals is a bit risky.
Previously I’d had new ones made by Enzed who supply this
sort of thing to the earth moving industry . Excellent lines
but were covered in the flexible stainless mesh that modern
stuff has.
However we have now found a company that makes them with
ends that looks very close to original and cloth covered flex
lines that look pretty original
Fortunately the BSPF standard for threads is still used.
I have put a pic of them in ‘my album.’
If any one finds this useful I can let them know the contact
point and they could be ordered direct by size and length.–
Ed Nantes SS
Melbourne, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
BTW the remote oil filter is only used on LHD Mark IV; it is
not needed on LHD Mark V, as the steering column does not
interfere with the oil filter on the block.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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In reply to a message from jschaible sent Thu 3 Nov 2016:
The LHD Mk IVs had a Tecalamit remote oil flter , Which used
the e same element as the RHD cars . The remote system was
exactly the same as used on post war Rileys. Which would
indicate the Tecalemit made the filters and housings and jag,
Rileys had to design their engines around them.
It would also be useful if someone felt the need for an oil
cooler as a way to insert it into the system. But one needs to
think very carefully about that .
being of a boy racer inclination , I made alloy canisters as
Aluminium tubing was available in the same 3 1/8’’ diameter.
Theoretically they should cool the oil a little better and of
course, weigh less.
But more practically they would mean that an SS owner could
use bigger and easily available elements instead of the shorter
obsolete originals.
I had a metal spinning company cut them to length { I had to
buy 20 feet minimum of tube] and turn the edge over where it
fits into the rubber seal.
Which means I have a box of extras and if any one has a desire
to do the same, they are availalable gratis.–
The original message included these comments:
What kind of remote oil filter set up did you use?
Hello Ed,
Please send me the company information that made your hoses. Also, what diameter and thread type. I have 2 1948s that have this same arangement. Dennistrull@gmail.com
I guess it is an old topic. I have 2 Mark IV left hand drive 3.5 liters. They both have remote filters similar to one you pictured maybe in November. I have found bright blue oil lines that look awful.
Actually, one car has the stock oil filter placement. On the other, I am machining the casting that is on the side of the engine. In addition, I have made an adaptor to use the original Jaguar filter near the firewall. Either way, your cloth covered oil lines look, very original and I would like to know where you got them. I can take the old lines off of my car to figure out the diameter, but perhaps you have done this research already.
Regards,
Dennis
I got them from Pirtek in Canterbury Rd Basywater Nth Malbourne 03 0720 4911.
I gave them the originals to copy , The banjos on the ends are for 3/8" BSPF fititngs , They can also sell you these if you are missing them , and modern gee whiz lipped washer for an easier and better seal.
YOu will need to tell them what lengths you want , the two hoses are different lengths.
I don’t know if you have the remote canister set up.parts
The same arrangment was on Rileys from late 40-early 50s. But with all of this , you need to check that you have a bypass valve
On the MK IV it is in the casting that is on the oil gallery side plate , not the remote filter
I can see people thinking it is clever replacing the filter with a spin on, getting into bother. As happened to an SS owner in UK who needed an engine rebuild. Or a friend here who had the spin on filter explode on the Scrutineering grid. before a race meeting.
Apart from that I think spin on filters are a pointless exercise. you still need the original seal which should be changed each time.
I have a spare housing [ the block end]. I could probably source other bits from the local RIley clubs spare parts people.
Thank you for the information. One of my cars has the original hoses
and I could send them to be copied just as you did. On the other car, I
am about to make the casting that attaches to the engine. Keep in mind
that it is actually a Mark V engine going into a Mark IV car. If you
have a spare casting, and it will fit on this engine, let me know ($).
It will take a little effort to put the pressure valve into an adapter
that I create, not to mention would not be original.
I should mention that at this time I am using the standard Mark V oil
filter as the remote filter. Originally I was going to run 3 lines to it
and use that pressure valve. Now I find that 3 lines take up a lot of
room. I never really hoped to find these parts, but if they are out
there let me know.
I really wouldn’t try to use the one that bolts direct to the oil gallery on the block. and put it remotely
I have one original spare{ has a C part # so must be from a Jag.}
I can ask the Riley spares people if you let me know exactly what you already have , and what you need.
What I have is one car that is complete…but with ragged hoses. The
other car just has its original Mark V filter and casting. Of course it
will not go on because of the steering box.
I did make an adapter to put it near the firewall…and was about to
create the part that goes on the block…including the pressure valve
from yet another car.
If you can come up with both (or either) of the two casting parts that
would be great. You have already solved my problem of having ragged hoses.
This is the aluminum piece attached to the engine. It is just too large
to remove without shifting the engine. I do have a pressure valve from
another Jaguar I car fit into the side of this piece. I can trim the
aluminum so it is removable when adding the valve.
This is a pressure valve off of another oil filter casting. I can fit
this to my aluminum piece, or take the pressure valve out of the Mark V
casting and then plug the holes.
here are pics of the two major parts you need
The fitting on the block shows the housing for the pressure relief valve next to it
I would be wary of fitting relief valves from other models
The other pics is the fitting which bolts to the engine stay [ in your case] that the canister attaches to.
There may [ certainly would be ] variations as this was proprietary Tecalemit part .
This has the bolt for retaining the canister from the bottom { SS style] some may have it from the top.
I n pratice not a lot of difference The SS ones have 2 places to leak oil , the seal atthe bottom and the seal at the top of the canister , The later one has only the seal at the top.
In either case the proper seal is vital , We have a gasket maker punch them out for the small one . The filter elements came with a square section seal , Not any more , but Rob Reilly says that Mc masters sell the correct one.
The banjo bolts are the same thread as SU carbs but foroil flow are not interchangeable , The bolts and banjos are made for much bigger flow rates. The hydraulic ones are also available new.
There absolutely MUST be a bypass in the system and it MUST operate in the correct direction of oil flow . I only say this because people who haven’t done this ended up with expensive repair costs .
