Spent most of the day shoehorning this monster into position. Transmission is about 4 inches longer than original and a very tight fit, too tight for comfort. Option #1 is to pull the whole thing out again and cut and weld cross member as specified. Option #2 is to modify engine mounts to move engine forward about 1/8" and replace rear mounting bolts with longer ones to allow shimming to clear the cross member. I will try option #2 first and see if this works. This series II coupe originally had the spring-loaded transmission mount that allowed the trans to move up and down somewhat. 5-speed kit comes with two rubber mounts that are more rigid like the ones used on earlier cars? Many years ago I pulled and replaced the engine and did not have as difficult a time as today and this time I had a two-post lift. I will keep you posted.
Glenn
Glenn, I am very keen in learning about your progress as my project has been delayed till the winter hopefully.
Guessing option #2, if it works out ok, is best choice.
If you manage to snap few pics, would be much appreciated!
talk to Broadsport before U do anything, yours may not be the first install…be sure it is the correct part
Nick
Broadsport specifies that cutting and welding of cross-member “may” be required. I have found that the E-types were not all manufactured perfectly the same. As an example the spacing of upper A arm mounting points are not equal left to right. On my original E spacing is off by 5/32" on left side, requiring shimming to take up play in bushings.
Glenn
Making progress on install of Broadsport 5 Speed. My skill level is not as high as some of you guys but I am a good problem solver. This thing has fought me every fraction of an inch along the way. I did manage to move engine forward 1/8" that allowed vertical clearance at rear of trans to clear cross-member.
Top bit of trans is clearing cross-member, even without using thick washers included in new mounting bracket. Everything was looking good and was looking forward to putting the car all back together until I tried fitting transmission tunnel cover. Not even close to fitting, especially at the rear where extended shift linkage hits cover. Unable to lower trans any more than I have and even if I had cut and welded cross member with using included rear mount I would have still be too high. Was able to shave off a little excess material on linkage, but not enough to clear. So I did some cutting and shaping at rear of cover to gain some clearance and will seal up with fiberglass. It appears the console will fit but time will tell?
Cutting of the cross member could have helped me If I replaced supplied mounting bracket rubber with lower profile rubber mounts that I located at McMaster Carr. This would have allowed me to lower trans.
Did not wish to pull everything apart and start all over again. I am also under the gun here, have to get the E off the lift because I am hosting a tech session with the Alfa club. My experience with the trans fitting may be different and hope anyone else’s experience is easier than mine so far, good luck guys.
Glenn
Just did a trial fit of console to check if it fits over modified trans tunnel cover. It fits, also noticed that the shift lever throws are shorter than the original trans. Still have to install intake and exhaust system plus a lot of misc. pieces. Not to forget torsion bars and front hub assemblies etc. Just received my new shift knob from Twisted Shifterz, they had correct shift pattern on black ball with correct 5/16" 18 thread.
Glenn
Before I put this car back together decided it would me a good idea to see it motor and trans were operating properly. Car is up on lift with no coolant, exhaust or alternator. It fired right up and shifted through gears with no problems. Very loud with just exhaust manifolds on but it was music to my ears to have it running again.
I pressure bled clutch system using Motive pressure bleeder. Made my own adapter for bottles from a rubber stopper and brass barb fitting. Will next do the same for the brakes.
Tires to hit the road soon.
Glenn
The Broadsport box is very narrow but longer than stock. The T5 versions are usuallly OK on length but very wide at the front. The one I fitted needes a few tries at rear mount shimming to miss the X member and minimise the tunnel metal ‘adjustment’.
The S2 FHC I fitted it to had been in a frontal accident judging by some ripples and dings. Yours sounds like it has bumped a front corner in a past life. Either way,fettling is inevitably on the fitting agenda but it is all do-able. A ‘podger is a big help.
No podger use here, just a small sledge hammer and ball peen.
No major hits to this car, I am original owner.
Last night installed A/C - alternator bracket with difficulty. In the past 49 years always had water-pump rebuilt. This time purchased a new one, spec must be a little off from original. Had to enlarge bracket holes to fit with the new pump.
Glenn
Well it doesn’t get more certain than original owner! I’ll be interested to hear your driving experience with the box.
Just filled up the cooling system in a matter of minutes, no spills or trapped air pockets. Have been using a vacuum fill device. Hooked up all plumbing to carbs and engine runs much better than without.
Waiting for brass tee fitting to install inline fuel pressure gauge, the plastic one I had for 10 years failed.
Did shift through the gears and must say very stiff, maybe needs to be broken in or will be smoother with wheels on ground? Exhaust and front suspension left to be completed. Will need bungs welded to new down pipes as soon as I figure out where to place O2 sensors.
Glenn
Sounds like very steady progress.
Very interested to hear the reports in this one. I own four classic cars with 5-speeds, and going back to a 4-speed car is always sort of an “oh man” moment.
I find I never reach for that non-existent 5th gear in Lola, the FHC, since I changed the differential to one with a 3.058 gear ratio.
Yes, I can imagine that swap makes a world of difference too.
With a 3.07:1 in Tweety, it was the same, but, occasionally, I’d try to jam it into “5th.”
That’s ok, when I drive my base-model, ‘03 Tacoma, I have reached for the imaginary 6th gear on more than one occasion…and I’ve never driven a 6-speed car in my life!!
I learned recently there is very definitely such a thing as “too many gears”. We rented a Ford Expedition. We actually reserved a “compact SUV”, but when we went to pick it up, they only had an Expedition or an Escalade! Anyway, the Expo had a TEN speed automatic! That is VERY definitely TOO many gears! The bloody thing was ALWAYS shifting. Up and down, and up and down, sometimes 2-3 gears in a row! It was REALLY annoying!
Regards,
Ray L.
Totally agree. We just rented a Dodge Minivan in Hawaii, and it was constantly hunting for the “right” gear.
I would just pullmit down into ‘4’ or ‘5’, and it drive MUCH better.
Just did a trial fit of my new Bell down pipes, I was dreading this job because in the past they never fit correctly. In past would have to take to muffler shop and alter the bends to fit. Final fit would hang down too low and would have clearance problems with pipes touching each other and contacting reaction plate.
Well not this time, they fit perfectly. The connections at muffler were deformed from the clamps last time and being stainless difficult to straighten out . A trip to Harbor Freight and $13. later a muffler pipe expander fixed that. Because the pipes hung down too low last time I had installed little skid plates to flex joints. May reinstall, just some flat steel pounded out to follow profile and held on with hose clamps. Looking at the old plates they took a lot of hits. Attempting to set torsion bars so car sits about 1/2" higher than before. To get 1/2" my link should be increased by how much? 1/32" ?
Glenn