Preparing XK120 for body removal

Hi folks we are in the process of restoring our 1954 XK120 OTS. After removing the steering column we will ready to separate the body from the chassis. We are undertaking this effort so the chassis can be powder coated and the suspension can be removed and totally reconditioned. I would be happy to post pictures, however, I apparently don’t have the required permissions to do so. My question is: can somebody please point me to a thread that specifically details how to reinforce the body for removal. I’m looking for the specific location of where the supports are attached and how they are attached. I assume the supports are welded in, but I see the possibility of using the top frame attachment point that appears to be a pretty secure possibly. I will be using a 2 post lift to raise the body so the chassis can be roiled out from underneath. Thank you for any help the community can provide.
Regards, Dave

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Hi Dave, there are quite a few things to address before the removal of the body tub. The body should always maintain the correctness especially in the door areas so theres’s no flexing or bending of the body that will save time, pain and anguish if not applied in these areas. I’ll repeat CROSS BRACE WELDING IN THE DOOR AREAS IS A MUST" to maintain the integrity of the body shell. Good luck

You certainly need to ensure there is no flexing when you lift the body from the chassis.

It can be done without welding anything to the body though.

I made a brace (for each side ) that picked up the windscreen post mounts in the cowl and the hood mounting holes just behind the b pillar.

This was pretty simple.

A piece of 2x2x1/4 angle about 5 inches long (circled in yellow) was drilled to suit the windscreen post mounting holes along with a corresponding piece of flat. The flat is to go inside the cowl box to stiffen the sheet metal.

These were bolted together through the cowl face.

At the rear a shorter piece of the same size angle was drilled to match the hood pivot point holes. (Circled in green) Also a piece of flat here.

These were bolted together with the angle on the inside of the b pillar and the small piece of flat on the outside, again to make sure the sheet metal wasn’t damaged.

Then I cut a piece of 3 x 1 1/2 RHS to go between the two pieces of angle and welded it to both.

I welded a some sturdy angle brackets (circled in blue) to this, above each of the four mounts that stick out from the sills. Four pieces of threaded rod were used to spread some of the load to the sills.

I had a piece of thick wall RHS across these two braces with a chain around it so I could lift it with a forklift. I didn’t weld this pick up bar to the fore and aft braces, so I could move it to get the balance right. It simply went under the braces and was held in place with a ratchet strap at each end.

I lifted mine several times with doors both on and off with no problems.

I’ve just recently transferred all my resto photos to dvd and so I don’t have any (easily accessible) shots of this setup in place.

Here are a couple of shots of the braces.




If you need any more info about how this worked, let me know.
All the best.
Garry

Hi Dave…have a look here…Steve Liftoff! (getting an XK120 OTS body up in the air)

Thank you for the valuable suggestions. Garry, I like the idea of not having to weld directly to the body, if it is not too much to ask I would appreciate more detailed information of your setup.
Do you folks know if it is a necessity to take detailed measurements before and after the body removal or if supported properly can the assumption be made that the body remained rigid and unchanged dimensionally? Our plan is to leave the doors in place throughout this process.
Also do you think it is okay to leave the body on the lift while the chassis is being restored? I’m hopefully looking at a short period of time, couple of weeks at most.
Thanks again.

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I can’t really see what you could measure or that it is necessary.
The doors are the perfect indicator of whether it’s rigid enough.
If the gaps stay the same, and they shut the same, it’s all ok.
I don’t see any problems with leaving it on the lift indefinitely.
As long as your sills are in good condition it is really very strong. And you’ll be surprised how little it weighs.
Good luck.

Couple of photos, maybe a help.



The body is being lifted by the forklift, just happens to be under a chain block hanging from the roof…

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I dont know whether the XK120 has a series of long bolts through the floor like a MK7,
running from front to back in pairs, but if it does, I would attempt to align a steel or wood section to at least some of those holes

The case described to me with a MK7, remove all the bolts on one side, loosen the other side, jack it up just enough to slide the reinforcement underneath, re-insert bolts, do the other side

One of the best descriptions and set-up pictures is the one from @Nickolas.

Some more links…

To post pix, part of earning trust levels is to like others’ posts.

Hint, hint…:wink:

Gary,

I’m in the phase of putting my OTS body back on the chassis (after a complete rebuilt of the body on a professional jig, normally used to straighten cars involved in an accident). My body has absolutely perfect “gaps” and is mounted on a temporary frame, that unfortunately is under the body and has to go as otherwise I cannot put it on the chassis. For that reason I wanted to put some braces in the door opening, just to be safe.
I followed your recommendation regarding the fixation points front and rear, but opted for a “variation on your theme” by using bolts instead of welding everything together. I drilled all bolt holes with a narrow tolerance, just to prevent any possible movement. I still have to connect the two steel tubes left and right (like you did), for the lifting points of my crane, but will opt also there for bolting them together.
I guess the “weakest” link in the complete construction will be the 1/4" bolts of the Hood Pivot Brackets at the rear, although I also used the extra plates at the other side. (See pics).
Will keep you posted how things will go.

Bob K.

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You guys are the best. We are going to use the bolt-in strategy, our sills are in excellent shape and we will add additional cross members that we will weld to the bolted longitudinal members.
Bob, I like your idea of a temporary frame, assuming you used steel, what are the dimensions of of those rails. I would think they need to be pretty stout but not to the degree of the chassis frame.
Thanks

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Bob, my car had 3/8 holes not 1/4, but I reckon you’ll still have plenty of strength.
Jeez, your photos make mine look ordinary! Are they taken with a phone?

David,

The frame at the underside of the body was installed immediately after the complete body was ready (built on the jig). This frame was also used for painting the body in the “rotisserie”. It was mostly 40 x 60 mm tubing (something like 1½ x 2½" , with the central frame using two of these (welded together).

I’m now using the same tubes (taken from the old frame as I no longer need that) and used them for the side braces. The “rigidity” of these tubes is more than sufficient. It’s just preventing that (for whatever reason) the dimensions of the door opening are affected.

Bob K.

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Gary,

Just a “middle class” Japanese mobile phone. You don’t need a “fancy” 1000 dollar phone to make such pics.

Bob K.

It might be just a question of availability of light. These look a bit better…


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As an aside, does any body know the approximate weight of the body, without the chassis?

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The OTS body w/o doors, bootlid and bonnet I reckoned at around 300#, closer to 400# with.