Protecting a sleeping engine

My engine is sleeping in my garage and will be for a few more years yet. I turn it over by hand every now and again and I’ve put some WD40 down each of the bores but is there anything better I should put into the cylinders?
TIA Paul.

maybe a bit of diesel to coat everything ?

So long as you do what you are doing, and protect against vermin, tou are good.

Mine sat for six years in the shed before installation. Every now and then I poured some engine oil down the bores and turned her over by hand. Six years on she fired up like a new engine.

You might want to put tape over all openings (e.g. intake & exhaust) as some valves will always be open to the outside air not to mention flying screws, etc.

Thanks for all the replies/suggestions. The carbs are still on it and the exhaust manifold is also attached. I don’t suffer from pests (well other than the kids of course) so that shouldn’t be a problem but I will block off the exhaust manifold just in case. If I put some engine oil down the bores will it eventually get past the rings and oil control ring and end up in the sump? I drained the sump before the big sleep just in case the old oil was acidic but I didn’t drain the gearbox oil.

If you turn the crank occasionally and put a tablespoon or so of oil in each plug hole I’d think that would be sufficient to keep the bores oiled. I’d also reinstall the plugs loosely and plug the breather, the exhaust and carbs, Besides keeping things out you also want to keep block any air exchange, especially if your storage area is not heated and air conditioned and subject to humidity swings.

It’s also a good time to switch to redline MT-90 synthetic gear lube.

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Yes! definitely you do not want moisture from the air as humidity penetrating metal not coated with oil.

having rescued many old engines, no plugs and unblocked ports, they are ruined or damaged

plugs in and ports blocked always ok

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Take in the house. Put a glass top n it and use it as a coffee table until you are ready.

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Sounds like you’ve done everything for now. The problem could be in the one thing you can’t protect and that’s the rear seal because it will dry out. If this was my engine I wouldn’t install it without replacing the seal. It would be a shame to have to pull the engine for a cheap little part.

I’ve never taken an XK engine to pieces but I’m assuming you’re referring to the crankshaft seal? Is this the one that was originally made from rope?

Yes that’s the one. It dries out and leaks. There is a modern rubber one available but is very expensive and requires the crankshaft to be turned. Mine is so dry that I have a puddle not a few spots under the car. I’m hoping that when I drive it the seal will start working again but I doubt it.

Ohh…just seen these too - never even heard of them before…anyone?

Yes: they have to be dried and reactivated pretty often.

Oil and regular turning of the engine is adequate.

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Do you mean to say that to fit a rubber seal in place of the rope one you have to remove the crankshaft and have it machined?

Yes, because the scroll would tear the edge of the lip seal.

You should use fogging oil not normal lube oil. I think Stabil do one in the US. The sparkplug things won’t work ao well on the unavoidable cylinders with an open valve unless the ports are sealed.

Put fogging oil in the sump to protect the rods and crank surfaces and the lower bores. Put some in the cam boxes to protect the valve gear. It vaporizes and coats surfaces liable to rust from condensation.

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Yep and the seal is very expensive, no idea how much the machine work would be. Come seal replacement time I’m tempted to do it.

https://www.terrysjag.com/category/PERFORMANCE-REAR-MAIN-SEAL-CONVERSION-KITS.html