Proteus C-type Replica Build/Rescue

Before and after. The shiny alloy won’t work. I have black crinkle paint I can use on it. I last used it on the 1955 MG EX182 replica I built.

Wrinkle finish on the instrument panel, which is nice because it covers tooling marks.
I also made up the under bonnet light bracket and the dimmer switch bracket.


Yup, I did! Carry on… :wink:

Out of curiosity, why are you fitting a drop-down gauge panel, vs. the original in-front of driver per the original? Or did I get your before and after flip flopped?

Great progress…

Actually, I had them flipped. Fixed it.
I’m going with original. The guy who had the car before me had a MK2 saloon center gauge panel screwed to the car.

At present the instrument panel and steering column are out for working room. I’m working on brake and clutch master cylinders and pedal mounting. The gas pedal arrangement has to be completely redesigned. Then install a generator in order to work out the drive pulleys so the water pump will run the cooling system. Then order a radiator and find coolant hoses. Also mounting a battery cut off switch so I can measure and order battery cables. Not much actual progress lately.

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Although not a Proteus, here is my pedal layout, which is standalone as one unit.

Added some dash pics / battery box for reference and a grubby side shot / just got back from doing a very long, hard drive.

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Hi Jeff…very nice…what C is it…cheers…Steve

Walt at Vintage Jag Works in Idaho built the car for us 12 years ago now. He briefly owned XKC007 (Phil Hills / first C to the US), and the molds were taken off it. That car then went to Terry Larson for an exquisite restoration and I believe resides in the EU now.

Not toolroom of course, but the chassis is nearly perfect, solid rear axle (thankfully).

It’s bodied in Carbon Fiber - weighs just under 1,800 lbs and is running north of 300 at the crank. 3.4 punched to 3.9, high compression, triple 45’s, blah, blah. Drives like a Camry (honestly) unless you downshift and mash the loud pedal.

Scary fast, mostly.


One note, do everything you can to use a proper XK 16”, 48 spoke wire wheel - the difference is immeasurable in esthetics.

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Im useing MWS C type replica wheels curly hub 16in 60 spoke continental spinner just for the IVA test…Steve

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I need to go that route eventually too / I had forgotten they were doing true 60’s at the proper offsets.

Looks great!

Jeff, I talked to Walt a few years ago about his C types but I couldn’t afford one. I watched his builds for years, very nice.
It looks like you’re running two brake master cylinders with a balance bar. That is the route I’m taking. I have to use brake/clutch pedals mounted from above. The foot box on my car is not structural at the bottom for m/cyl mounting.
I could use some pics of your throttle pedal arrangement and linkage on both sides of the firewall if you have time.

I also have a Realm with 3.4 and triple Weber carbs. I’m not happy with them spitting and popping at anything other than steady throttle. I haven’t found anyone anywhere near me who can help with Webers. After a couple of tries with jetting them myself with no improvement I’m about ready to ditch them for SUs.

Thanks for the pics,

If you were closer, I could help you with the Webers!

That said, you’ll get just almost exactly the same performance with the SUs and a whole lot easier to set up.

I found a good used set of five 16” XK wire wheels. They are in no way going to fit the front of the car with disc brakes. No amount of grinding will make them clear the calipers. I can use them on the rear though so not a total waste.

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I don’t really like the look of the air filter on the car. It looks too modern, even if it does work well.

Our car was the last one Walt did in entirety - I don’t believe his boys will carry on with anymore, as it was more Walt’s passion. I checked in with him a few months ago, and he still sounds great.

A couple of options to consider - I pushed him pretty hard on my wheels and he ended up building a front hub with a carved down Willwood caliper, that’s got about 2 baseball cards of width
in clearance to a curly hub, but it’s plenty. I’m happy to post pics.

Understood on the floor in your car, but if you can fabricate up a perch for a base mounted pedal unit, your efforts will pay off drastically and give you actual normal footwear clearance across all pedals.

You can get individual screens with rubber insets for the velocity stacks, if you’d rather.

First C’s ran on Sandcast’s, so absolutely nothing wrong with SU’s, regardless of your decision.

We ended up putting the car on a dyno, down here, for a full day, until the jet selection was about perfect. I have little to no dead spot between the idle and main transition, and it pulls so blooming hard to 6 grand.

If you’re running a relatively stock 4.2 on either car, definitely ditch the Webers.

I have a very strong personal bias against that engine, although… :sunglasses:

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Didn’t seem to mind it too much, bombin’ along in the Jeep…:stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

The Realm has a probably stock 3.4 in it. I just think the Webers are too much for it, as well as me not knowing how to get them dialed in properly. My Proteus project car has a 3.8 and I will be using two HD8 SUs on that car. There is so much going on the right side of a RHD car there isn’t room for much more.