Pulling steering wheel

1966 MK2. Steering wheel is a bit of center so we are going to remove it and recenter it or if possible install a moto-lita I have with a “boss”. The moto lita is smaller in diameter which will make getting in and out of the car easier for my long legs.

Looking at my pictures:

we have most of the assembly apart, we used a 15/16 deep well to remove a thing retaining type of nut. I will have to borrow or buy the correct size deep well to loosen the inner bolt. I know not to just jerk the steering wheel backwards in to my face. I will keep the nut on a little on the shaft and use some metallic persuasion.

Am I on the right track and what size is this big nut?

on the right track, the "thingy’ is the lock nut as you’ve worked out, the general rule is measure between the flat sides for tool size ie: if it measures 9/16th then that’s the size of the spanner, same for metric

nut size

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You shouldn’t need a deep socket. Just pull out the horn push rod and you should be ok.

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I use a conventional socket, but with only the tip of the drive bar employed is deep enough.

Disregard this blank post

So I should pull out the small spring loaded piece in the middle between your yellow lines? I tried pushing the socket over that piece to no avail. I will pull it out and try again.
I’m hoping that the moto-lita wheel will fit. There is not an option for a horn on this wheel.


Don’t forget to disconnect the battery or your socket will cause the horn to blow.

the top nut is called a palnut, it’s a sprung steel type which flares outward as a lock nut, i usually just use multi grips for that, the yellow lines are a sample on how to measure the main nut for socket size…the after market steering wheel you have with the boss mounting system usually have an after market horn unit to fit it, sold separately…can you post a pic of the new wheel complete.

The new wheel does have a push to blow the horn feature. I believe my problem with thorn blowing at will was more internal to the column. I never did pull the entire column to change the bushings and investigate more awhile back.

Are you saying the palnut is the same size as the main nut? We will have to remove the spring piece to get to the pain nut then. We could not push past the spring with it in situ.

nice wheel, the pal nut is just to act as a lock nut, it’s never a true size as it it springs outward the more it’s tightened, remove the pal nut then you can get to measure the main nut.

Won that on Ebay. May have paid too much, if I recall it was about $600? It is definetely an inch smaller in diameter for better leg and thigh room.
I might have to borrow a socket that big as I believe it’s one inch USA / sae size

let us know what the size is, looks a bit more like a 21mm than 25mm but pics are deceiving.

Not sure my set goes that big, I’ll ask neighbors.

I think they’re smaller.

I think the wheel nut is around 1"; might be either 1/16th smaller or bigger (sorry that’s not much help).

I have exactly the same wheel on my Mk2; it’s nice although I don’t have power steering so turning the wheel at low speed requires a bit of effort.

My horn doesn’t work so I just have the wire disconnected. I never use it anyway.

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When I install the moto lita, will I lose the telescoping feature I now have? Not really worried about the horn, over here gunfire seems to work just fine! :dizzy_face:


Just had the beautiful

Angela take two pictures of the problematic spring. Is there a way to disconnect this deep within the steering column. Even If I used a deep well socket, this wire and nub would still prevent the wheel from being pulled. I could just cut it, but a hack job isn’t ideal.


I have removed my steering wheel multiple times without disconnecting that contact and spring shown in your picture. that green wire runs all the way down the inner column to a finger contact near the floor. I had issues with the horn blowing when the column was not fully extended. The reason was that the green wire, spring, and contact would flop over, and short out when the green wire and contact were proud of its base. When wheel was fully extended the wire was taut thus so no flopping over and shorting causing the horn to blow.

Knowledge is power. Wish I had known those details years ago when I disconnected the steering column horn wires. We did pull that green wire out about 2 inches and nipped it off with wire cutters. We pushed the excess wire into the column so it could still be reattached. Gonna hit the neighbor up for a big socket as I only go to 15/16ths and it needs one inch or 22-23 mm.

So, next trip you take to Colorado, you definitely must stop by and repair my horn!

Mea culpa.

On the E type there is a long brass rod that just comes right out.

Clearly it’s different on the Mk2.

Neighbor gave Angela some “impact” sockets; unbeknownst to her at that time. The walls are too thick and although they were the wrong size (Damn), they would not fit in the allotted space. She will drive me down there again after she gets off at 6PM as the neighbor says he has think walled sockets.

Losing the ability to drive is one luxury we take for granted when we just hop in a car and go where and when we want.