Incredibly, there is already an access panel for starter on MKX
not a word or whisper in the FSM about the situation, they specifically call out the hard-arse was of doing it!
(its possible this plate did not exist on early MKX, (it was in place by '66), that it was added to address complaints by service staff on the difficulty of SM access, and the manuals never updated…would be interesting to check for early owners)
@ peder and any other MKX owner…to pull the starter, take out the console, and you will see a small oval plate on the trans tunnel…its only purpose is to give access to the lower starter bolt!
this plate is not shown or mentioned in Parts or Service manual…very strange
get the upper bolt from the top, (by laying across the motor)
It would take me not much more than 1hr to remove the starter from my 420G, it takes many hours to do it via the FSM, and a very nasty job
no need for 42" of extensions"!
to get the big old LM45 out, it is needed to take it out the front and upwards, removing several parts first
a lot easier with M100, hardly anything needs removing
with the torque starter, it should be very easy to remove
Did a bit of digging in my MK2 manual and on page P.30 instructions are given for accessing this plate in the trans tunnel. I will of course have to remove all of the dynamat like material I installed to find the panel. It should be MUCH easier to drop the starter from this direction.
For the life of me I can’t see why anyone would want to fit a so called high torque starter to there engine !
The starter in my MK2 is a factory part , removed it from the dead 240 engine , bolted it on to the 3.4 , and now its bolted on to the 3.4 xj6 engine , car starts no problem !!
May be asking for starter trouble now
I put a new hi-torque starter on my E-Type two years ago, but saved the original starter for a future owner, should he wish to go back to it–which, by the way, weighs about half the weight of the car!
BTW, my issue was a flat spot on the starter, as my single-click-no-start was intermittent. Get to the grocery store. Buy groceries. Make a statement getting back in the E-Type. Click. Embarrassment. Then somebody says, “Nice car! It’s a Jag, right? Ha ha.”
I have the spin on oil filter conversion and see that it would have to be removed to drop the starter from the bottom. Do you come out the bottom, or pull all of the carbs and intake manifold and pull it out from the top. I already cut the hose from the sump to the oil return and that was difficult as I had to use a torch to heat the blades of the saw to grind through that tough 300 psi hose.
I see the panel in the firewall to get to the upper bolt. It was VERY hard to remove the console as I have the tilting seats and I had to remove the “pinch” panels on the inside of each seat to allow the console to slide out. It would almost have been easier to pull both seats out of the car!
It it possible to reinstall the hose without pulling the conversion unit, if I actually should be pulling the starter from the top. FSM alludes to dropping the starter out the bottom. If this was a stock starter that would be near impossible due to the size and width of the unit.
afaic, the original large Lucas LM45 should come out forward, and up
In that case, I removed the vacuum resevoir, distributor top, carb overflow pipes, and maybe a few more bits, and you can manouver it out…if you have strong forearms
I once took one out the bottom, and it was wretched, all I can remember was swearing a lot
If you have a smaller starter motor, you may be able to do it both ways
I do not think I had to pull any carbs, definitely not the manifold, maybe some linkage parts
…bend the carb return spring support brackets toward the engine
imo, the vacuum resevoir that supplies the front scuttle should be permanently removed, it serves no useful purpose, and gets in the way
I am working on a MK2 not a MK10. No scuttle on a MK2 operated by vacuum.
I do have the small high torque motor and don’t want to get in way over my head!
This is also a left hand drive car.
I have done all of this except the removal of the starter. I have the mini high torque model so the wires are a bit different and I will have to pull the spin on oil filter apparatus.
This is incredible:
Back at my summer house where the blue G has refused to start many times in the last few months. I have been here 3vtimes and tried tapping the starter and the solenoid, with no results. Then today I tapped it with the same long, steady extension bar, and guess what…it started. Drove for 20 min. Back in the carage. Turned off the engine and tried to start twice. It worked.
What is going on…???
I had the same issues , after I wired in a kill switch , worked fine , for a few weeks , then the starter clicked , worked ok with out the kill switch wired up , so I got a new better quality switch , same thing , starter just clicked , turned out it was the wire , I used old wire , must have had a break in it , has been ok for 3 years now !
Finally pulled the small high torque starter out of the car. This was a brutal job! I had to remove the spin on oil filter conversion bracket, remove all starter wires and as suggested had my wife lay over the top of the engine to put a wrench (spanner) over the bolt head while I accessed the inner nut with a LONG air powered ratchet. I used that air powered ratchet on all five of the bolts on the conversion as it would have take months to undo them click by click on a manual ratchet set. Don’t forget removing the seat cushions, the shifter console and because I have reclining seats I had to remove the pinch panels from the back of both seats.
I should make a video as the starter does work out of the car and the solenoid engages on each attempt. Either way I am just going to buy a new one as the is a bit of crispness ti the wires on the side of the starter.
Question: when I replace the gasket on the spin on conversion bracket should I use “the right stuff” ??
I don’t know whether your starter is an inertia type or a pre-engaging type but many many years ago (when I was a lad) it was not uncommon for dust from the clutch to build up on the shaft that the gear slides on and make it sticky enough that instead of engaging in the ring gear the 2 gears would meet tooth to tooth and all you would get was a click.
The starter motor often jammed in this position but could be freed by rocking the car backwards & forwards while in a high gear, if it’s a manual (stick) 'box. Otherwise, a spanner on the crankshaft pulley would free it off, or a spanner on the starter motor centre shaft if it has a flat, or sometimes it would just free itself.
Once freed, repeated attempts at starting usually resulted in correct operation until the next time this happened, which could be the next time or a few weeks later.
Obviously clutch dust doesn’t happen with an auto but the gear can still stick on the shaft due to wear.
Usually all that was needed was to clean or deburr the shaft so that the gear slid on it smoothly and easily. Some people said to lubricate it with something very light (like WD40) but I preferred not to as I always thought that any oil would help the dust stick and the fault would re-occur sooner. Maybe you could try a dry lube but such a thing was unknow (at least to me) all those years ago
My own personal experience was exclusively with the inertia type but I guess if the ‘stickyness’ was sufficient the same problem could affect either type.
