Put Trans into Neutral?

I have engaged reverse gear with engine running, turned off ignition and released the clutch. A firm nudge forward on the shifter pops the gearbox out of reverse. Repeated several times with engine off and no problem disengaging reverse gear. This is a well functioning gearbox with 7,000 miles since total rebuild. Fwiw.

Hi All,

What a healthy discussion. I did try the idea of having the car on the lift while someone was moving the rear wheels and me trying to disengage from reverseā€¦ Since that didnt work, I will remove the top cover.
Thanks, Bob

Hi All,

I removed the gear box cover this evening. It was really stuckā€¦ Well, I think good newsā€¦ the sliders in the top cover are stuck in reverse. The actual gear box looks good and the reverse selector does move back and forth with no issue.

I now have the top cover on the bench. The sliders do not disengage the reverse selection.

So I guess the next step is to dismantle the top cover and see if the ball bearings are in some odd position and/or have flat spots.

Is this correct as to next steps?

Thanks,
Bob

I would be inclined to soak everything in the lid in penetrating oil for awhile in an attempt to free things up, dismantling the final option only. I suspect the selector rods are gummed up and will slide freely once the resistance from the old heavyweight oil deposits is relieved.

Hi All,

I need to clarify that the sliders move approx 1/8 inch, not frozen. Even with some oil and moving back and forth, they still only slide about 1/8 inch.

They are bumping against a ball bearing. I cut the 2 fork lock wires so I could slide the forks out of the way. Still the sliders only move approx 1/8 inch and bump against the bearing(s).

Any suggestions? Hammer, force the sliders out? I know it will damage the bearings, but can they be replaced? Any damage to the sliders or internal cover?

Helpā€¦
Thanks,
Bob

Donā€™t hammer them out, you are likely to crack the casting. I suspect the interlock is stuck. There is a plug on the side of the cover toward the front that I believe gives access to the interlock, you might pop it out and run some penetrating oil into it. Iā€™ve never had this assembly apart, so Iā€™m uncertain, perhaps someone who has taken the interlock apart will chime in.

Except that appears to be a clean assembly.

See previous post by David. Worth a shot. But try to determine where itā€™s binding.

Hello Bob,
I doubt that itā€™s a Lockout Ball Bearing that is causing the issue. When the Reverse Selector Rod is moved forward (to select Reverse Gear), it moves the Ball Bearings and Roller sideways. The annular groove that is at the forward end of the Reverse Selector Rod doesnā€™t come back into play until the Selector Rod is close to being back at the Neutral Position; far more than the 1/8ā€ youā€™re talking about.

At the position of the Red Circle in the attached picture, there is a tower containing a spring loaded plunger that has a hemispherical lobe that engages with the annular groove indicated by the Red Arrow. I suspect that this plunder is jammed, something I referred to in an earlier Post, and the small movement youā€™re seeing is the extent to which the Selector Rod can move before the sides of the annular groove makes contact with the hemispherical plunger.

Top%20Cover1

I would keep the Top Cover in the position shown in your picture and pour penetrating fluid through the hole shown in the centre of the Red Circle (inline with the annular groove). Leave for at least 24 hours and try moving the Selector Rod to the rear (towards the Neutral Position). I would not apply extreme force, but I believe it will be difficult to move, as you will be trying to move the plunger perpendicular to the movement of the Selector Rod. Just a small amount of resistance to the movement of the plunger will make moving the Selector Rod difficult.

Regards,

Bill

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Thanks Bill, Nick and Dave!

With oil and some careful gigglingā€¦ the rods came free. Now they are in the current position (see photo). All 3 rods are back and in the same position. Is this neutral? Thanks for your continued support on this! Bob

Hello Bob,
Good to hear that you had success. Yes, that is the Neutral Position.

Regards,

Bill

Looking good. Take your time refitting the lid. Make sure the three selector forks are positioned so they mate with the two synchro assemblies and reverse selector. Once youā€™ve got the lid on and positioned by its two dowels, hold it down and gently go through the gears, bolt it down when all is well.

Thanks Guys,

So I guess no reason to take apart, clean and grease the sliders and bearing? Thoughts?
Thanks,
Bob

The lid gets its lubrication from the oil in the gearbox (Redline MT90 is what I use). If itā€™s all sliding back and forth freely just put it back as is and enjoy. My $0.02.

Hi Nick,

Thanks, one less thing to have to do. I just want to ensure that while I have the cover off that I do what is needed, and what would have been done at time of the initial assembly of this XKE gearbox.

Regards,
Bob

There are O-ring seals on the 3 shafts. I pulled mine apart and replaced the O-rings. I have this delusion of creating a leak-free british carā€¦

2 Likes

easy. donā€™t put oil in it.

Hi Nick,

So I installed the lid per your suggestion. Should I be able to move the selectors by hand or use the shifter? I tried to move by hand and am unable toā€¦?
Thanks,
Bob

You will need the leverage of the shifter, Bob. Pretty difficult to engage the gears otherwise.

Those are one of the few seals that were not leaking, so I left them alone.

Hi All,

The shift sliders now move freely in the lid. When I install the lid on the gearbox, with the shift rod in, I am unable to move the slidersā€¦

With the lid removed, when I move the car back and forth you can see the gears moving freelyā€¦

Question, should I be able to slide (back and forth) the two round gears (synchromesh hubs?) where the forks seat into in the gearbox? Those two puppies are frozen.

Thanks,
Bob