How much paint is usually required to paint a 120/140 OTS?
Hmmmm. can you let us know a little more about the status of the car? i.e. is it a bare metal restoration, what paint system you have chosen etc.
In this case I am assuming the car has been blasted and in now in epoxy primer. Mostly the question is about color and/or clear. No paint system has been chosen. That is actually part of the intent of the question.
I also probably should have asked if zinc chromate primer is still required over aluminum or do new paints obviate that step.
Unless you’re painting it yourself, you should choose the painter first. Every painter uses their own equipment and products that they trust, so they can back-up their work if problems occur. All the new paints out there today have very different properties and the quality of the work shows it. Here in the U.S., when they mandate water based paint, there will be a lot of restoration painters finally retiring. It’s terrible stuff. I haven’t met one good painter that likes the result.
Phil.
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Since you seem to be just fishing for a rough estimate a gallon of color will do!
If you’re looking for a complete list of primers, sealer, color, and clear. That depends on the body condition and how much high build primer it takes to get it flat.
Hope that helps.
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I like the idea of starting with a choice of painter. The painter I consider most likely at this point has a selection of R M paints and mixes his own.One of my assumptions is that the greatest variable in the cost of the paint job will be the paint used for the color coat.
For example, people suggest a choice of red increases the cost. It looks like today a clear over color coat is most likely. I see no point in trying to copy the exact colors and finish of the fifties.Overall I came into this knowing that I don’t know what I don’t know. One source has said the cost of paint itself could approach 5K. Not sure what type of process he had in mind or if that is one of those gimmick paint jobs. I only want a metallic along the lines of the opalescent colors.
You haven’t clarified full body repaint or just an exterior refinish. A gallon covered my exterior e-type finish with room to spare, but it might have gone a little over that to paint all surfaces on a rotisserie.
I should have included cockpit, engine bay, and trunk
I dont know whether you intend to have a non-metallic finish, or whether this paint system is available over there, but solid color 2 pac urethane (uses ~10% automotive thinner) looks very much like original, (for a solid color, non-metallic car), especially if polished and buffed. Looks right inside engine bay, boot etc without buffing
fwiw, I used 10 litres for a large sedan, not using HVLP though, also sanding & buffing means you need more initial coats, cost $A800
its the same paint system seen on many white commercial vehicles, but looks much better polished up
quite a lot of high build primer too, nearly all ends up as sanding dust
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