i was wondering if anyone has tried a “Quick Jack” for an E type. I can’t put in a standard hoist but not sure ir would work with our jacking points.
Yes: it will work, in the standard, robust jacking points.
I don’t know guys. You have a dropped floor to contend with. The material available on the site doesn’t really give you much info as to the configuration of the top of the jack that is - is it too long, too wide etc.
You can only put it between the front of the trailing arm and the front of the foot well - that is inside the battery box. That’s not very long and the front is very close to the center of gravity of the car.
Terry you can get a better idea by looking at the accessories pages. I think you would normally use rubber blocks at the end. These 3" ones would give about 2.5" of clearance as they sit in a recess. That should be more than enough for the footwells. I think it would probably be able to be roughly centered on the two body stiffeners and still not interfere with the exhaust as well. I don’t think I’d want to use these under the sills.
If more clearance is desired you could use these standoffs instead
If you accept Jaguars statement that the car has 50/50 weight balance the center of gravity is 4 to 6" back of the most forward portion of the longitudinal floor stiffener. There is nothing forward of that position to jack on, until you get to the vertical piece on the frame that has the engine mount. That means that if you use the front of the floor stiffener as the front jacking point you have the entire engine, front suspension, and bonnet hanging out in space, and almost all the weight of the car on the front 6 inches of the jack. You can jack the front of the car by using the torsion bar reaction tie plate (I’ve done it), but a lot of the car comes up with it, so it can be done, but it is a bit creepy.
When people use 2 post lifts with 4 articulated arms where do they commonly place the lifting pads? Is it not the front and rear of the body stiffeners? A way to test it I suppose would be to jack it and place 4 stands at the front and rear of the stiffeners and cautiously try and push to nose down a bit or lift the rear a bit to see how well planted it really is.
Edit: if it’s anything less than firmly planted, it could be fixed by adding a stand under the picture frame. Kind of a pain but it would prevent it from tipping forward.
I think Erica and Terry clearly identified my concerns. I always jack under the front pivot for the lower wishbone and under the rear axle. Just lifting at the footwell and trailing arm scares me. Not so much that the car will fall, but rather take it out of square. I just had a TR6 on a lift and the door don’t shut well when it is off the ground.
Thanks for everyone’s advice. I probably stick with jack stands.
I wasn’t suggesting either of those two places but rather the box section stiffeners that run under the body front to rear. I believe those are where most people and shops would place the pads for a lift so I’d hope they’d be safe as far as body twist goes.
With all due respect… one is a ladder-framed car…and the other is not.
Tweety sat for months on those points, and the doors closed as normal.
Erica on my 2 post lift I jack under the vertical piece on the frames that has the engine mount - which is at the front of the motor and under the sill beside the front of the trailing arm at the back. My lift has the square pads you see in the accessories for the quick jack (mine’s a a Max Jax), and I push it under the sill till it butts on the trailing arm. I’d rather it was further back but there are no jacking points aft of that, that are not on the differential parts.
Anyone try Quickjacks yet? I have them for my Boxter, which is an inch longer than the Jag, yet they don’t seem to align to safe lifting points. I could be heatstroke at the moment, but figured I’d revive this thread while I’m cooling off!
Same question as Phil. Anyone tried quickjacks on a short wheel base car?
The clutch on my trusty 911 stopped working. The cable works normally and the lever end is moving the correct amount but the clutch doesn’t disengage. The forks and throw out bearings can break so I’ll need to drop the engine and see what’s going on. Lifting the 911 high enough with a jack and jack stands is difficult so I decided to buy quickjacks. Costo had the 5000TL on sale for $1299.
I’d prefer a real lift but the garage at the house I just bought doesn’t have enough height for a normal lift. The width is just barely adequate for two cars so while a maxjax could work, I’d have to leave one car out of the garage while I’m using it.
As long as I’ve got the quickjack, I thought I’d give it a try on the jag at some point.
Depending on which Porsche you have – I know the SCs worked this way – – the clutch works by pulling on the pressure plate, not pushing it, which makes getting the transmission and engine separated, a bit of a challenge.
How wide is your garage? I was able to install a MaxJax in a two car garage 20’ wide and use both sides to park cars in. Also, remember the MaxJax is made to be unbolted from the floor and moved out of the way when not in use.
I’m thinking about dropping both together.
It was about 21’ wide. The prior owners added a bathroom which encroached about 2’ so about 19’ or so. I’m also not confident that the concrete is adequate. My guess is that it isn’t.
On the good side, it’s a bit deeper than normal so I’ve got plenty of room front and back.
Easy to find out, just do a test drilling. John would know what the current thickness requirement is. His lift isn’t very old.
Hey Terry, do you have a pics of your Jag on the MaxJax? I too, have a MaxJax but haven’t put my '67 2+2 on it yet. However, I expect to do it this coming winter. Thanks for your post.
Hi Ken I haven’t tried to lift a 2+2 of Ser 3 V12 on my hoist - but I can give you some basics I worked out.
In setting it up my first concern was the c.g. of the car. On the shorter wheelbase cars it’s said to be 50/50 which by measurement is about where the cowl is between the gaps of the rear of the bonnet and the front of the door. Then I took into consideration where the pick up points were on the car. I chose the extended bracket for the rear of the lower control arm, which has the front engine mounts on it, and at the rear I use the floor section between the edge of the rocker panel and the front mount of the trailing arm.
Because the front bracket is close to the centerline of the car it is a longer reach to the posts which meant they had to relatively close together. So the inner distance, between the posts is 87".
You also have to consider the car position when on the hoist to enable you to open and close the doors. I suspect the c.g. of a 2+2 will probably be behind the cowel/door gap which will mean, if you center it’s CG on the posts you won’t be able to get your doors fully open. The instructions on my lift indicate that the lifts can handle reasonably significant back front imbalances so it’s not strictly necessary to get the balance by the posts, but beware trying to lift the car with the bonnet off.
Four and one quarter (4-1/4) inches.