[racing] After market valve springs

Were can I get after market valve springs for a
higher lift cam?–
dantheman199
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In reply to a message from dantheman199 sent Mon 25 Jun 2012:

Isky sells them.

Are you sure you need them? The factory revved the stock
valve springs up to 7800 RPM before they floated…Unless you
have a really aggressive cam profile chances are darn good
you won’t need them and they do cost you horsepower…–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from dantheman199 sent Mon 25 Jun 2012:

im interested in the Isky XM-2 grind from Isky, you think
stock valve springs would work?–
dantheman199
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In reply to a message from dantheman199 sent Mon 25 Jun 2012:

Yes assuming they are in good shape they will work…
Originals probably aren’t in good shape but there are
spring testers or you can check them yourself… Accurately
measure the spring height just sitting there… Now put
something heavy enough to squeeze the spring down say an
inch. If all 24 measure the same open and and then loaded
then they are in good shape. Go ahead and reuse them… If
there is variation then don’t.

I’m serious. Is the rest of the engine modified to take
advantage of the cam? (and the car as well?).404 lift
compared to .375 lift and 258 degrees duration…4 extra
degrees.

Throwing a cam at the Jag V12 will cost you. Yes it will
make more peak power but that isn’t the good deal it seems…
by gaining a few horsepower at redline you will lose power
through the Low to well up in the mid range… If you want
I’ll get you the actual numbers. However you can prove it to
yourself… Go someplace where you can go to the redline (in
first gear) without speeding. Take your stop watch and
start it the moment you floor it. Click the stop watch off
when you reach 6000 rpm… Note how many seconds passed.
Next start the stop watch as soon as it hit’s 6000 and stop
it again when it hits 6500 rpm… Compare the times… the
long time is the one that will slow down the short time is
the one that will get faster. Percentage wise about the
same for each!!

So unless you switch to an extremely close ratio 5 or 6
speed non-overdrive transmission and correspondingly low
final drive… (something well below 4.11) your acceleration
times will increase, Not a good thing… Yes your top speed
will increase maybe one or two miles per hour…–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from MGuar sent Mon 25 Jun 2012:

Were do you get 4.11 gears?–
dantheman199
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In reply to a message from dantheman199 sent Fri 29 Jun 2012:

Jaguar made them but they are hen’s teeth… However the rear
end is made by Dana(an American company) It’s a Dana 44
which is used on a bunch of vehicles like Jeeps? So you
should be able to get whatever ring and pinion set you want
from them… It will be cheaper… (No import duty into
England and then re-import duty back again, not to mention
saving a whole bunch on shipping) …

I can give you better advice if you tell me what your
goals are, road racing, drag racing, street cruiser, etc.
and what sort of budget you have in mind…–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from MGuar sent Mon 25 Jun 2012:

Im looking to do a street strip setup. Im
interrsted in a 3.73 ring gear setup. Im in the
us so im sure o dont have to worry about import
taxes–
dantheman199
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In reply to a message from dantheman199 sent Sun 1 Jul 2012:

Have you ever set up a rear end? It’s pretty straight
forward but not a simple bolt and unbolt deal.

There are a lot of 3.54 rear ends available, you can find
pumpkins from XK-E’s or other cars who have pulled theirs
and replaced it with a 3.07 or 2.88 You can also find them
in XJ-S’s 1992 and later.

Acceleration comes from power to weight… it’s relatively
simple to make a solid 300 hp with a stock car you’re going
to be in that 14-15 pounds per horsepower.

It’s possible to make up to 500 horsepower and then you’re
at around 8&1/2 horsepower per pound but to make 500
reliable horsepower is not simple or cheap (typically) …

However if you want to remove weight there is potentially
1200 pounds to remove without losing it’s ability to drive
on the street… (it won’t be civilized but it will be the
absolute cheapest way to go fast)

Staying at 300 horsepower you’re around 10 pounds per
horsepower… Get up to 500 horsepower and now you’re at 6
pounds per horsepower…

All out race cars can dip to around 2500 pounds and full
out a V12 is capable of making well over 700 horsepower…
That get’s you down around that 3 pounds per horsepower area

For street & strip a 5 speed manual gearbox is the best
improvement… … It doesn’t need to be terribly expensive…–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from MGuar sent Sun 1 Jul 2012:

I used a NEW set of factory springs and shimmed them .060,
been fine, revs 7000 rpm.
but its past the usefull rpm range! unless you got that last
bit of straightaway, before the braking!

custom Crane cams,regrinds.–
The original message included these comments:

MGuar


Ronbros
daytona fl. / Austin TX., United States
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In reply to a message from MGuar sent Mon 25 Jun 2012:

hi…
i m club from india I need new car.nice to meet u
Thanks–
dainik bhasker
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In reply to a message from poo sent Thu 11 Oct 2012:

Another firstY post, new thread, nothing to do with
anything Jag = spammer. Two in a row… :frowning:

Pete–
1E75339 66 D, 1R9720 69OTS
Gaithersburg, Maryland, United States
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In reply to a message from MGuar sent Mon 25 Jun 2012:

MG,

You once made a comment about using real Jaguar springs on
an engine rebuild vs. some aftermarket source.

I am now about to tackle the heads but was told by my
supplier that Jaguar no longer supplies them springs and
that an aftermarket supplier is being substituted.

Assuming the above is true, is ISKY the preferred source ?

Thanks, hope all is well

Doug Harper–
The original message included these comments:

Are you sure you need them? The factory revved the stock
valve springs up to 7800 RPM before they floated…Unless you
have a really aggressive cam profile chances are darn good


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
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In reply to a message from Repairman sent Sat 16 Mar 2013:

HI again MG, and anyone else.

the best thing I’ve seen lately for V12 cooling systems, is
the Davies-Craig electric water pumps, and control modules.

it has variable speed remote pump, and fan control, it
actually pulses the pump and fan after shut down of engine
also. great for hot weather temps, when parked in the sun,
(like Texas), and in the pits between races.–
The original message included these comments:

MG,
Thanks, hope all is well
Doug Harper


Ronbros
daytona fl. / Austin TX., United States
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In reply to a message from Repairman sent Sat 16 Mar 2013:

hey repairman, dont be talked into real heavy spring
pressures, can cause other problems.

take a stock used spring,and have it checked for pressure,
and sizes, free length and diameter, and have your guy match
up a spring with around 20% more,give or take couple %.

some times you may shim the springs slightly for equal
balance.

my engine has no problem with 6500, but dont feel happy at
7K

I used new factory springs shimmed .060 thou.,with Crane
race cams.

HD springs take power to push open,and wear cams and
tappets(cam followers).

MG may chip in here,he knows his stuff.–
The original message included these comments:

You once made a comment about using real Jaguar springs on
an engine rebuild vs. some aftermarket source.
supplier that Jaguar no longer supplies them springs and
that an aftermarket supplier is being substituted.
Assuming the above is true, is ISKY the preferred source ?


Ronbros
daytona fl. / Austin TX., United States
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In reply to a message from Ronbros sent Sun 17 Mar 2013:

I’m essentially looking for a good stock spring, but if the
Jag originals are not available anymore than I’m into the
aftermarket, a scary place at times

Just trying to figure out what to use and this ISKY name
came up, perhaps I should give them a call and see what they say–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Repairman sent Sat 16 Mar 2013:
hey repairman, dont be talked into real heavy spring
pressures, can cause other problems.


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
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In reply to a message from Repairman sent Sun 17 Mar 2013:

Hmmm, sent ISKY a email monday, not heard back from them
yet, but it appears they have Silicon Chrome inny and outty
springs,part number JA-006 and JA-006–
The original message included these comments:

came up, perhaps I should give them a call and see what they say


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
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In reply to a message from Repairman sent Wed 20 Mar 2013:

Jaguar is apparently no longer selling their valve springs.

I was offered a complete set of new springs for 95$ -
unknown source, from a jag dealership stateside.

Isky never did contact me back, so I called them.

They have a spring set called JA005 and JA006 packaged for 6
cylinders for 100$, or 200$ to do the V12

Dimensionally they are a little wider, a little taller than
stock. They are also rated at 200# under 1’’ compression. Jag
springs are a little taller under compression, but have a
maximum of 160#(recommended) compression when mounted (so I
have read)

This means an aftermarket set of good springs are higher
rated than stock. This brings me to the collets and the
keepers on top, question is are they up to it ?

So what do you racing guys do ?

My manual says replace the colletts due to age/fatigue.

This means I replace the keepers also, so the colletts and
the keepers work together. The question then would be which
ones work with the stock jag valves

What do I do guys

thanks

d–
The original message included these comments:

Hmmm, sent ISKY a email monday, not heard back from them
yet, but it appears they have Silicon Chrome inny and outty
springs,part number JA-006 and JA-006


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
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In reply to a message from Repairman sent Sat 6 Apr 2013:

HI, repairman, like say earlier, dont go to hi on pressure,
stock jag springs were designed for close to 7000rpm, so if
you are not building a race car, some thing close to stock
should work just fine!

online; google engine valve springs, cam companies have
vast assortments of them, with sizes,free length, compressed
length, ID, OD, pressure at certain lengths. inners
outters,ETC.

factory retainers and colletts, should be good for a
million miles, very little wear in that area, I have had bad
luck with some aftermarket rets,.
I dont recommend them, if you get aftermarket springs you
may have to use afters… plus machine the heads to fit
after.springs

cam companies; Crane, Comp cams, google camshaft companies.–
Ronbros
daytona fl. / Austin TX., United States
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In reply to a message from Ronbros sent Sun 7 Apr 2013:

unless you have had a problem I would put the old ones back,
they dont generally fail at all.
Original uprateds where from Oselli who did the original GpA
heads, Gp 44 had their own made, Group C used shmitelhelm but
these are very different babies with major changes needed to
race cam carriers etc.
Springs retainers and collets are a total new world and
wouldnt really advise even thinking about going there.–
XJR5 006, & Jaguarsport Ltd for all things XJR15
London, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Repairman sent Sat 16 Mar 2013:

how about Crane Cams?–
S1 XKE 1966. I really got to put this back together…
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