IRS disassembling after handbrake pad disintegration continues, for a full overhaul of IRS.
All good but no way i can’t remove the RH bolt fixing the radius arm to the wishbone - Fig 1
The bolt is seized in the inner metallic cylinder of the bush so any attempts to turn it with a spanner only twist the rubber. yes,I tried all sorts of better penetrating oil but no way it will go where it should go.
I only see a way out: Grinder. That would mean cutting also through the radius arm as there is little space to arrive only to the bolt, taking care to leave enough length of the bolt to unscrew it on the wishbone side.
On the LH side (fig 2) I had a not happier moment, the cut-head bolt would hit the shock absorber mounting tube, despite the cut, so i had to slightly bend the soldered plate to be able to remove it, meaning when i will put it back it will be misaligned with the thread . Only solution I see forward, try to slightly enlarge the hole on the soldered plate so that the bolt has a little play and will slide in and still get properly aligned. it would help if the bolt were only 2 mm shorter so it could slide in and then get in the right position . Bad engineering…
as far as the stuck bolt in the bushing I had to cut mine off, tried a hack saw while forcing the unit to one side for clearance. gave up on that and used a reciprocal saw. Was afraid the grinding wheel would strike on the side and shatter throwing shrapnel.
I got through it with minimal but not zero collateral damage to the unit.
There was a trick to the bolt but, I don’t remember how I did it. Cut it off and grind the replacement shorter and also grind on one flat of the head? Check SNG catalog see if that bolt is a special bolt with a special head on it. Good luck.
IIRC that is the wrong bolt, mine had a smaller head and came in from the opposite side. Doesn’t answer your question on how to remove it but I would do my best to avoid cutting the radius arm. Can you drive it out from the other side?
Cheers,
LLynn
Early cars went in from the outside. The later cars went from inside out. The bolt heads have a flat spot on the head to clear the shock mount. Easiest thing to do would use heat on the bolt. Heat till rosy red and let cool and turn. Repeat as necessary. Will make lots of smoke and stink.
Agreed. Usually sets the rubber bush on fire. But you can’t get the heat on the metal sleeve, so I have great difficulty getting the bolt out of the sleeve because then there is nothing holding the sleeve so is difficult to apply toque to bolt and sleeve at same time. But that’s just probably clumsy me.
I didn’t notice that. Maybe this is a new offering. Other products the company makes, shown in the “Customers who viewed this item also viewed” section are highly rated, as are some really inexpensive knockoffs.
About 5 years a go a mechanic I visited showed me how effective one (same brand) worked. Same brand. Quick and clean. At the time they were well over $600.
Thank you all for the input so far. It is a Series 3 1973. I managed to get rid of the rubber with a drill and a sharp cutter so the radius arm is now detached from the inner metalic sleeve and can now move left and right. So I managed to grip the inner bush metal sleeve with a vice and its still a no go. But now I think i have enough clearance for a grinder which will hopefully enable me to cut the bolt on both sides of the bush. Will report later.
@Dick_Maury and @BillJag Bill, thanks for the heating hint, my experience with long bolts inside long tubes is frustrating, I had the same problem with the bonnet pivot, one one side it came out like butter, on the other was like soldered with oxidation, eventually the last cm of the frame tube broke, which was a good thing as i could then remove the pivot it and braze the top of the tube back. I tried heat, threading the pivot from inside and pulling , nothing. It was the only way.
@John_Walker thats quite an innovative tool, it would possibly work !
@L.Lynn, it is a series 3, it only come out towards the centre
Will update soon .
Wish you all a good Easter!
Rui
Dick Its a series 3 so comes outside-in the flat spot is there but it didn’t clear the shock mount by 1 mm ! As for the other side see my last post, I hope i will be able to remove by cutting the bolt . Thanks for the advise!
Rui
Bill, I think this is exactly what I am going to do and the only way… i will see if it works with the grinder now that i got rid of the rubber and can slide the arm sideways for increased clearance
Many thanks
Rui
Done. With a drill I destroyed the rubber , then the arm could slide left and right to cut the bolt both sides with the grinder, On the left side, cut the closest possible to the support. on the right side leave a few mm to be able to unscrew the remaining of the bolt with a plier. No burned rubber
The bolt and the bush inner sleeve were as a single piece …
Hi RuiMeneses,
When faced with your situation, we use Embryotomy Wire, designed for use in dehorning cattle and performing Embryotomies on various animals, but most commonly Bovines, to cut through the bolts.
The Embryotomy Wire,is passed down between the Radius Arm and the Wish Bone and with a handle at each end of the wire, the wire is moved in a reciprocating motion whilst holding pressure towards you. Very accurate direction control is achieved by angling the wire in the direction you need to go to avoid damage to any component.
Hi Brent, This is a very innovative idea, thank you.
I will definitely keep it in mind for the future. And after all if it works on Bovines, why not on Jaguars
Best,
Rui
