do a copy paste into a word doc, or just write up on paper: separate the text procedure into a series of one line steps; follow each step…when you are only looking at ONE instruction to do ONE step…it is much easier, less likely for error. ( i did same for valve clearance adjustment-of course it was 3 pages long–but it worked.)
Nick
Had already planned something like that.
I had done or tried a lot of your suggestions before.I had not none the flywheel backup.Cam lobe is pointing left.The points are closed but with a tiny touch in the roster points open.Will leave that alone for now.The car starts,runs well ,not missing all in all I better back off for now,give y’all a rest before addressing the tach tango problem.Have semi addressed that in past.
Cecil:
Good news! The “tach tango” issue, when you get around to looking at it, may possibly be a need to lubricate the inner cable, or wear on the ends. When you disconnect it and, if it is the old-style original cable, withdraw the inner cable check that you have neat, squared ends. The replacements from the usual suppliers are a single piece. I did replace mine some time back with one and it has certainly performed exceedingly well with the “modern” item.
Chris.
can you just disconnect it from the engine sid and pull the inner cable out or do leave the inne4 cable in and inspect the ends? What lubricant if I elect to try?
Cable has to be taken out from the speedometer, it will not come out from engine side.
was afraid of that
Cecil:
You’ll need a “dry” lubricant, you don’t want a lot of oil possibly getting into the back of the gauge, say graphite or something similar.
Chris.
I would be far more concerned about six unhappy cylinders than I would be about a wonky speedo.
the 6 cylinders are extremely happy at the pleasant time.The tach is exhausted from dancing and I’m sick of watching.I suspect what ever happens to the tach it’s a messy situation.Wonky is an understatement.
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KING BACKFIRE…ok,after the resetting with lots of help heres the story
Last week when things were wired or timed incorrectly there was a giant backfire.Today after things were almost normal the first start was slow but would almost start.After a few almosts there was a backfire somewhere around the intensity of a howitzer or AR15.Started after that.Early idle rough with stutter when accelerating.After that running is smooth.Early idle is rough to point of shutting down.Later smooths out at 800rpm.After running acceleration from low speed is choppy.Now what?
I have had 2 severe back fires,one I can explain because of timing.Yesterday,again like a cannon when starting.After that ,except for stuttering at slow speed it runs well and smooth,I doubt it’s carbs since they haven’t been touched other than replacing a float a couple of months ago.Appreciate you help as usual.
A backfire means it’s too far advanced. Turn the knob anti-clockwise to retard it a bit. If you zoom this picture you can see the letters A and R on the scale.
Thanks.Was hoping I could do it without starting over.Will try that and hopefully improve the stuttering a when stressed in higher gears and slow speeds. CD
How sensitive is the vernier? Like how many clicks at a time? I fiddled with it a few days ago tried to get it back where it was but probably didn’t.
The manual does not really give much information about the vernier, calls it a micrometer.
60 clicks moves the plate about 1/4 inch, and at a radius of 1-1/4" that translates into 11.46 degrees of distributor rotation or 22.9 degrees of crankshaft rotation.
One click is approximately 0.38 degrees of crankshaft rotation.
So I think you could try moving it 10 or 20 clicks counterclockwise and see what happens. You can do this while the engine is running and see how it smooths out the idle speed. If you are still getting backfiring you can go more.
If you run out of clicks you will have to reset the distributor body counterclockwise a bit, then set the vernier micrometer in the middle.
Thanks.The # of clicks is what I had a problem with. Will see what happens.
good info Rob on “clicks” I recall that somewhere the factory did make note of how much/or little to use the vernier advance–I will try to find that. I find it best–if usinng that to adjust–say in advancing til a ping, that backing off…to note how many clicks to advance, and using numbers such as you have listed…as a guide…then reset the distributor timing advance via flywheel teeth, turning the distributor body, with the vernier returned back to center. I just like to have the vernier at center so I can re-adjust if needed later. That said–if I were getting big backfire and suspected timing, which I would suspect given the giant loud signal the engine is giving, then I’d certainly reset to #6TDC compression and recheck via timing marks and points opening.
Nick
Approximately 8 clicks is one mark on the verier scale.
I have the flywheel 3 teeth before TDC,the idle at cranking is low and rough until warm then 800 which is smooth.Tach only has spasms when going faster.Micrometer got to fairly smooth but I over fiddled so I’m working on that.Coil hot,left Ignition on too long I suspect. Will redo flywheel etc.The points were just about to open but not open.