Re connect dist cap

Because of car location i cant do that now.I am doing points now,new are in,springs are set but i never did points so quick and easy arent in play plus the gap of .015 etc will be cook booked and no doubt screwed up.y

Contonuing on.Have replaced plugs,wires,coil,dist cap,points.Fire to the points (.016),actually looks like too much but none to plugs.The only screwy thing was loosining the dizzy clamp so I could turn it(big mistake) anyhow thoght the clamp was tight-not- rotor was freewheeling but i re pushed the dizzy seemed to attach,rotor normal rotation,3 teeth BTDC,but nothing is leaving the dizzy now–was getting variable spark before my point expidition.Rotor in correct location for 6.Other than a personal consult which is pending.Thanks for listening these few months.

There is an offset driving dog at the bottom end of the shaft, which engages an offset slot on the next shaft down. It is possible to get the driving dog to engage in the wrong offset, 180 degrees off. It may feel right and will still turn with cranking but it is not fully engaged. If you accidentally do this the timing would be 180 degrees off.
Turn the rotor as you are pushing the distributor body downwards. You will feel that one way is almost right but it can slip out, and the other way is right and feels better as the dog fully engages the slot.
IMG_20190728_200339373
distributor drive shaft

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Continuation with you and Rob.Finished with the points.Dizzy was looses and remains so since the nut if hard to reach.No matter thought it 180 off since no fire.Reset the dizzy but fire loss to plugs was dirt to the fixed point shorting out when the spring touched ground.Anyhow getting fire,plugs working firing but not starting,sounds like will start but not.BTDC 3,2,1, and TDC no change.Vernier and dizzy manipulation evokes not starting.Would a timing light be helpful? Will reck carbs.

The no fire to plugs was a short in the fixed point spring.Have spark.Just checked 6 piston physically with tdc-- right on rotor on #1.Before I screw up what is next

Cecil sent me this picture offline.


The points fixing screws are missing. Hopefully this is a pic from some days ago and you have them back in. I see the square head screw fixing the spring arm on the points and condenser is in backwards as we thought.
I also see a little wire coming up from below between the points base and condenser. This is the grounding wire for the points base and should be connected to the base mounting screw.

So if you are certain your distributor body is down all the way and the rotor is locked in the right place in the dog, and you are getting some firing, that means it is almost right. You may have it slightly retarded.
Snug down the clamp nut but don’t tighten it all the way yet.
Set the vernier in the middle.
Now I would turn the body a little bit by bit in the clockwise direction to advance it. A timing light on the #1 or 6 plug wire might help, and shine it on the hole in the bell housing to see the timing mark. It looks like an arrow.




Or it may be just a set of dots.

regarding timing mark arrow or dots or other–: I have seen other marks…with arrow as well…could be anything, from prior work, so–it is a good idea to look thru one full revolution and see what you see. ALSO–verify, once you do have a timing arrow (or mark)…that it is in fact in line with the flywheel mark exactly when #6 front (not #1 back) piston is at the center of dwell of TOP dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke. (the rubber stopper in spark plug hole will tell you…as "Wiggles " advised–stand back or put a small towel over it). I have seen a flywheel mounted 180 out. Always good to verify the mark matches the piston, and matches the distributor pointing to #6 wire, and that #6 wire really goes to #6 plug. For Cecil–I have also seen the small carbon in the center of the distriubutor cap–broken, or missing, or spring clilp and button missing.
To review: find flywheel (or damper) timing mark–line it up exactly (not doing advance at this time), in lining it up verify that #6 front is at TDC–via a small wood dowel marked with some lines on it or a dial guage…and that it is on compression–stopper blows out, and that distributor rotor is pointing at #6 and that that terminal wire does go to #6 front., and the firing order from there on the distrubutor is correct 6 2 4 1 5 3.: and that each spark plug wire from the distributor does in fact go the the appropriate spark plug. This is a good time to mark the plug wires-both ends with the little clip on numbers. When all verified–points set, advance set, 2 or 2.5 or 3 teeth BEFORE the arrow The arrow will rotate downward so will be at the upper most of the “hole” when advance is set. Mark the chosen tooth with white paint dab. Also a good time to explore a way to mark the damper with a mark on the engine front or make and affix a pointer.
Nick

Cecil, the two missing points fixing screws noted by Rob Reilly are an obsolete British size (2BA x 1/4 inch). The threads are fairly close to our SAE 10-32 threads. If the screws are lost, don’t be tempted to force a 10-32 into the threaded holes. The plate is too thin to try that, and you will likely end up stripping out the threads.

In my spare parts stash, I have a couple of the correct screws I can send you. These fixing screws also take a split lock washer under their heads to hold them tight.

pic before i put it back together…short was on the fixed point.Condenser is the same way it’s been for life.

If the tdc is exactly correct and the 6 is at the top of the cylinder i am assuming that is the compression stroke but if the rotor is at 1 is it the exhaust?I have stared at the flywheel for days and the only mark i see is the tdc line.

a cylinder, any, and including #6, front most toward radiator, comes to the top–with TWO possibilities…once to force exhaust gas out the open exhaust valve, not the one you want…: and once at top again to compress the air fuel mix for firing–this is the “top” you want…you find this by putting a conical rubber stopper–size so it can not drop in…into the #6 spark plug hole…then rotating the engine by hand wrench via the front 1 /5/16 nut…in the proper direction of rotation which IS–that front round pulley–and the fan–as seen from the view of drive in front–looking front --counter-clock: thus–if seen from the opposite view, in front of the car looking to the car, then it is counter clock. Rotate in the proper direction slowly til the stopper blows out…this is the compression stroke and the piston will be approached the top…but not quite there when the stopper blows out… But it is the right compression stroke…the right TDC of the two possibilities. The cam lobe you see at the front thru the oil fill hole will be facing outward–toward left side of car. Now you have to find TDC–and the center of TDC–the halfway point between piston going up…and then down. A wood dowell or dial indicator to the piston top–gently, delicately, not cocked sideways can find the “center” of TDC–now on compression. THIS, on compression TDC is when the distributor rotor (if the distributor has not been bodged internally, and is in the slightly offset drive slot correctly) will have the rotor tip at #6 plug terminal( with cap off–you have to predetermine where that is–normally rotor tip toward front right corner of the block. At this same TDC the timing mark on the flywheel should be visible thru the hole AND lined up exactly with the little line on the housing . This is always how you want an engine set up to do timing and cyl head work. Is anyone near Cecil? Where are you Cecil? where-o-where–?? are you ?
Nick

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i’m in charleston sc now but going to asheville nc later this week.I transport it usually i drive it on to the transport.Jag is going into the shop on June 19.I can’t start it but know what you are saying.I put something into the cylinder this a.m. and when the piston was at the top the TDC mark was at the bell marking and the rotor at 1.i need to ck the cam,i think it was pointing out.

The cam is pointed to the valve ,rotor on 1.NOW what do I do to mzke run for 1/2 mile to the ambulance to Asheville.Will get the compression on 6 done.

Where will the XK be for the summer?

Asheville NC.
Have an old English car specialist there who knows Jags.You probably dont come thru NC often but come in down.

How are you seeing the cam position on #1 cyl? That’s the one at the firewall, have you taken the cam cover off?

I do not know what
“cam is pointed to the valve”
means.
in the photo is the front most cam, exhaust side…engine at tdc, and that lobe is what can be seen thru the oil fill…and the lobe should be in this orientation when viewed. thru the oil fill opening, .when the engine is at #6 piston at TDC on compression

sorry.In the past numerous efforts then the camshaft lobe is pointed to the out side which would be compression as seen thru the oil fill.Rotor is at 6.TDC is centered as marked.With variable tooth settings,BTDC,from 1 to 3 teeth it will fire but not start even with dizzy manipulations.Now i did push it in 4th a little backwards and forwards to move the flywheel,don’t know timing chain effect.

Am looking at the camshaft lobe in the exhaust side thru the oil port.Lobe pointing out is associated with TDC alignment and rotor at 6.

As you know Im flying by the seat so now i have the 6 at top,TDC on the line,rotor under 6 Have dowel that shows if one more tooth is clicked piston staarts down.So teeth hve been backed couple of notches,no crankee.Fakes me out thinking it will as its closefire etc.Starting carb plunger depressed,no difference.If Put the vermier in the ,the middle back up 3 BTDC and slowly advanc the Vermier clockwise 5 or so clicks at a time and see what.May augment with starting vapors.What do you think?