Hello Everyone, I have a 64 S Type that needs the rear axle oil seals replaced.
I have looked everywhere in the manual and it does not cover this operation.
Can anyone tell me how to go about it please? From the looks of it, this looks like a major operation.
Many thanks.
Ron,
It’s covered in Section H. The pinion seal can be done in place The output seals are a bit complicated as you have to take the output shafts off and apart, which makes it an “IRS out” job.
This job is sometimes easier than others.
I did this job 45 years ago, so things are a little hazy. You need to drop the whole suspension off the car and remove the driveshafts. If the output flange has a large nut in the center of it, you’re in luck.You can simply undo the big nut, draw off the flange fit a new oil seal and put it back together again without disturbing anything else
If all you see is a flange with no large nut, I think its a diff out job with all the necessary complications.
All this fuss to replace a £6.00 oil seal!
I was lucky as mine was one of the above. It was a1967 3.4S with a power lok option.
Thank you Andrew, that’s what I was afraid of.
I did look in Section H of the manual, but the one I have simply makes no mention of how to replace the seals.
So it’s back to the garage for me.
Ron
Thank you Wardell.
My car does not have the large nut on the output flange, so I will now have to remove the whole suspension.
You are right of course, it’s a hell of a job to replace two cheap seals. Makes you wonder how they could design something so difficult.
Regards
Ron
if its any consolation, I dont think it matters what style of “big nut” you have.
that mainly affects bearing type and method of assembly
in any case the output shafts must be removed from the diff case, and completely dismantled,
as the seal is the outermost component.
I did 4 from late 60s 420G, and got all quality seals and bearings at Bearing specialist.
a press and clamshell bearing remover is needed.
it may be possible to do in car, but many parts, including the brake calipers and discs need removing
as a previous poster mentioned (with the shim style) one can simply remove the old bearing and replace a new one, and it should be correct. I honed a set of bearings that slip fit the shaft, and checked that this was ok, as the manual describes a process of checking, dismantle and add seal last. You DONT want that, as removing the new end bearing once fitted is a pita and can damage it
If it’s just a minor weep and there’s nothing else amiss with the rear end, then I would say just live with it - check the oil level and power wash regularly. If it’s pouring out, or wetting the brake discs then do the whole thing - rebuild calipers, new pads, test shocks, replace bushings and check all the bearings and tolerances.
If you don’t have the large nut then your diff must have the later output shafts, per the 420, the shop manual doesn’t cover this variation, but they are detailed in the parts lists. Jaguar changed the design of the output shafts about 3 times iirc, so be careful when ordering parts.
Thank you everyone for your comments, it’s been really helpful.
I really don’t know what to do at this stage, perhaps I will take the advice given to power wash the whole assembly and take a note of how much oil I am losing and take it from there.
Maybe I should have chosen another Chev to restore. But I didn’t so I will just have to live with it.
Thank you again everyone.
Ron
Add a dye to the diff oil that responds to a black light torch. Makes it really easy to see the size and location of leaks. Here is an example from Amazon but lots of other kits are available
Mastercool (53351-B) Professional UV Leak Detector Kit with 50W Mini Light
Dave
Hi Ron, Jags are challenging. I started with Holdens (Australian GM/Chev), moved through a Triumph and now Jags. They’re sometimes complex and difficult to work on - but it’s my new normal. I wouldn’t swap back now. We need newbies like you to stay - helps the rest of us feel normal - by weight of numbers! There is a wealth of help here. Paul
depends on what the situation is, but if you are “restoring” a Jag that has not been regularly serviced,
and those seals are leaking bad enough to warrant fixing, and you decide to remove the IRS to fix them,
be prepared for a full IRS overhaul including rear brakes.
Several guys on the E-type list have photo doc their IRS restos, immensly helpful when I did mine, can be found via search or even youtube
its a pretty big job, but if it hasnt been done in the last 20+ years, it will be due