Last I knew you could buy brand-new cylinders made for the Datsun 1600/2000 roadster which are IDENTICAL to the Dunlops (perhaps missing the useless retractor pins), but cheaper.
Regards,
Ray L.
You could ship it to White Post and see if they can recondition them - that is is you intend to re use them?
I checked that out a few months ago and I recall finding some that were very slightly cheaper, but not substantially so. If anyone has a link to an inexpensive source of the Datsun cylinders I’d be interested.
As would I. I’m very confuzzled how to proceed at this point.
Rick
Quote………
“ If the seat for the flare is corroded you have a serious problem. I had to junk resleeved callipers because the flare wouldn’t seat or seal. Now the first time I had steel lines (new). I have since replaced all lines with cuNi. Maybe, maybe they would have sealed with the softer flares. As far as I know you’d need to make a facing bit to clean up the seat ”……………………….
If the pipe flare seating is corroded it is worthwhile trial fitting a banjo fitting and banjo bolt with two copper washers, this forms the seal on the outside machined face of the calliper. The actual pipe fitting then needs changing from male to female to couple to the banjo but it at least saves struggling with calliper removal.
The banjo fittings are available and approved from specialised brake factors and used in the racing World. In fact I have seen them used on armoured vehicles and they also make conversion to remote bleeding easy.
Exactly. I went with:
“FactoryNissanPartsOnline.com” ~ $400. with shipping.
Service very good and they came with “Made in Japan” and factory part numbers. They worked great. Maybe you can get them cheaper, but I thought the “Made in Japan” and factory packaging was worth something, as trying to cheap out caused so much grief I can’t even epress the frustration. These were ‘fronts’, so have the larger pistons as I have bigger fronts from England.
They are in Rhode Island
41100-14600
Careful of the number, as some have one port the wrong size. You can work around that, but why? The ones I got were a complete bolt in
the ports were threaded 3/8 fine?
These were a complete bolt in. The slightly larger size did require some modification of the lines. The CuNi are easier to rebend than steel, and I’d guess much easier than stainless.
These are not dramatically larger than the smaller Dunlops, but the difference is enough that you need to adjust the lines somewhat.
On suggestion from CJ, I called Apple Hydraulics. The will dismantle the cylinders, resurface the ports, chase the threads and replace all the rubber parts for $40 each. That’s a good option for me, so they’re on their way.
Most likely will go the CJ/Wilwood route on the fronts.
Rick
That sounds like the ticket!
Then I have a fortune in valuable cores ! Fantastic deal if they really can do it.
Yes, a good deal but does not include re-sleeving or re-plating(mine are already sleeved and plated) , so your cores would require a bit more work.
Rick
Mine are sleeved (fronts), and the rears are stainless and leak due to machine chatter marks. I also have virgin rears that probably need sleeves, but at least aren’t butchered by bad work. Also have brake masters that are original were sleeved poorly OR have improperly fit seals, as they don’t return (too frustrated to take them apart to see what strange foul up they may have endured.) Would have more stuff but the crook lost them. Now have 100%% new stuff and it’s all good and works great.
Have one new TRW rear which is good, but no use for it.
The wheel cylinders are back from Apple. The price turned out to be $60 each for port machining and seal replacement. There is no warranty in my case because the sleeves are stainless which indicates they were not originally done by Apple. The ports look perfect but worthy of note there was a notice included indicating the seals may not be compatible with silicone brake fluid. I called Apple and that’s pretty much the story. They might work with silicone but it is not recommended. They are certified only for DOT3/4. So I guess that’s what I’ll be using…and being REAL careful with the new paint.
Rick