I have a leaking rear brake seal. Is it possible to remove the caliper from the car without dropping the rear end.
Hi,
Maybe possible, but not really sensible. If you follow the factory ROM it’s really not that difficult. Also a good opportunity to do other things like clean and lube and adjust the handbrake self adjusting mechanism and check all pads. Cheers!
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No you can’t but you may be able to remove the offending piston. Which one is it?
Yes, having a S1 may give you the option of doing it in situ but having the whole IRS on the bench in front of you is so much better IMO.
I thought the task of dropping the rear was much easier than I thought it would be… especially the second time (changed my mind about something).
I did it on a series I. But, it was to replace a bad new caliper on a brand new restoration with all new hardware with no rust or seized fasteners. You also need a good set of hand tools of various angles, tubing wrenches, etc. If these conditions are met I feel it may be easier to do it without taking the unit out. Otherwise it does seem more sensible to remove the whole unit - if you have a later model it may not be possible anyway.
On an S2 it can be done, the lock wires on the caliper bolts are a pain as they come out toward the pumpkin, I went with star washers to put them back. On the hand brake it can be removed by unfastening it, then sliding over the top of the disc and out the holes in the subframe out the back. If you are not feeling limber it might be best to just drop the whole thing.
These posts about the “relative” ease of removing the IRS are somewhat reassuring to me. Renewing the brake pistons is one of the things I’ve been putting off on my much-longer-than-planned path to get mine back on the road. I just need to bear down and get it done.
I did wonder if I could just remove the offending piston. It’s the inboard on the right hand side
I did wonder if I could just remove the offending piston. It’s the inboard on the right hand side.
IMO the hardest part of dropping the cage is getting the exhaust out of the way. no?
I haven’t felt limber since the Clinton administration.
The tool that made the job easier for me was a transmission jack from HF:
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lbs-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html
Slightly modified it made an ideal platform for the unit:
Easy to wheel it around with those casters:
As Jim notes - it helps to have an exhaust system (and radius arms) that have been apart recently.
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That is the key. Those who talk about dropping the IRS in 40 minutes or less are either (a) magicians, (b) armed with a sawzall, or (c) working on a car where the IRS was dropped in the recent past. When I removed the IRS on my car for the first, and so far only, time, it took a LOT more than 40 minutes (maybe a full day) because bolts were seized, exhaust was “difficult”, and the radius arm cups were seized to the bushings. That, and I was hoping not to break anything. Failed at that part…YMMV
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I tend to completely pull the radius arms before dropping the IRS, it is much easier to balance on the jack.
Whether or not it’s possible to remove the cylinders from a S1 without dropping the IRS depends on the specific S1. I remember being surprised Jerry Mouton was able to do his pretty easily. On mine, it was absolutely impossible - the fluid lines were completely inaccessible, and even if I could get to those, the cylinder would not fit though the cutouts in the IRS cage. Even with the IRS on the ground, they were difficult to get in and out. On the car - not a chance.
My advice - just drop the IRS. It’s not that big a job, and it makes any other work MUCH easier.
Regards,
Ray L.
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Gaaak Of course the immutable laws of perverse jobs arises. It dictates that if you have to remove something or you break a bolt/stud it will always be the most inaccessible one. I have a friend here with a '65 like yours who just did an inside piston R & R - I think it was the same as yours - I’ve got a call into him and will let you know. The piston you need to remove is the closest one to the diff., and the hydraulic lines the hardest to access. I’ll let you know.
If one rear brake piston is seized the others are probably not far behind. Best to take them all apart and rebuild or replace.
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Not too difficult on a later S2 - but on early S2s and all S1s the hub carrier has to be undone from the fulcrum shaft and removed or lifted out of the way to get at the bolt securing the small end of the radius arm (a bolt that is sometimes troublesome to remove even after all that).
On late S2s the lower forward shock mount was changed to make that end of the radius arm easier to remove.
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I removed all four of my piston pots using a 7/16 wrench that I twisted up to give it more wiggle room. A half moon obstruction wrench would also be very helpful for this job. Although it took a while and wasn’t super comfortable I suspect it was still marginally easier than having to remove the exhaust and trailing arms and drive shaft drop the the IRS. On a lift it was be considerably easier because the working position is so much nicer.
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[quote=“Ahwahnee, post:11, topic:384512, full:true”]
The tool that made the job easier for me was a transmission jack from HF:
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lbs-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html
Slightly modified it made an ideal platform for the unit:
Easy to wheel it around with those casters:
I used HF Motor Cycle Jack, has more height and more capacity, and I use it for moving my MC around the shop. Plus it doesn’t need any mods to use.
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Mark by coincidence I have the rear cage out of my car - swapping out a 3:77 diff for the original 3:31 so I did some experiments and I’m convinced you can get it out of the caliper without dropping the rear end. I use a cut 7/16" box end to remove the brake line - you need this because there isn’t any swing room, particularly with this one piston. The cut enables you to fit the wrench over the brake line. You can get at three of the bolts that hold the piston to the caliper with a 3/8" wrench or socket from the front, and the forth one from under the car - see the photo with the wrench on the bolt. It would be helpful if you had a longer than normal 3/8" wrench for this - with a thin box end. It will be fussy to get it back as there isn’t enough room for a hand in there but using a magnet may make it easier.
I don’t know how long the brake lines have been in your car but they may be difficult to remove. Apply some penetrating oil asap. Ultimately you may have to cut them off at the fitting and make new ones.
I agree with everybody that you should remove all four (the others are much easier) and redo them. I just had 4 done at White Post. If you go this route you don’t need to dismantle the pistons or get the fittings out if they are rusted it. White Post does that for you.
