Peter’s idea of the stillson wrench is good. In the US such a wrench also is called pipe wrench, and sometimes monkey wrench. Such a wrench would provide the brace bar function mentioned above.
The right length wrench or brace bar is needed to grip the fitting and reach the outside brace point. If building a brace bar, I use a piece of steel bar with enough meat to take the torque and bolt it into two adjacent fitting holes. The wrench, or brace bar, has the advantage of reducing the impact torque in the gear set compared to letting the driveline take the impact of loosening torque blows.
Shiny but not really much worn. The original leather seal contacts a wider area than a modern rubber seal will.
You should not need two wrenches to put it back, no megatorque. Just tighten, then back off until you can get the split cotter pin in.
I have pulled everyone apart on the car many word during the very awkward process, but now done, the cheese head screw was non existent and the aluminium casting was broken. I have now replaced this with the spare one with a new oil seal all fitted back on the car.
The rear flangers has obviously been repairs see attached photo. Should I put this back or install a speedi sleeve? Any comments?
Speedie Sleeves are quick and cheap, but a better result is to Hard Chrome worn area, and then grind surface back to standard, with net result better than new.
Congratulations on getting it back together.
Another alternative with the worn one is to look for another. This part C.885 was used on all gearboxes from 1938 to 1964 so there will be some around.
I have completed the work and it all went back too smoothly, the oil leak is still there The only thing I can think of is oil leaking from the speedo connection? Any thoughts would be appreciated.