Eric, that looks like a very poor fit that will never work. It reminds me of the fit of the gutter rail chrome trim on my S2 FHC. I bought one set from SNG and another set from Martin Robey. Between the 2 sets I was able to get them to fit and sent the bad ones back to each supplier. You might try ordering a set from Martin Robey.
Andy
origonals are Sealey suction caps from UK.I used them recently to fix windscreen chrome on my 140.Pics are on XK section
Thanks John. Just found them on eBay and bought a set. Thanks for the UK description
Erica, you mean this version?..
If so it looks like one would still see the locking flap unless the flap in on the inside??
The flap on that one is the far right piece, it just folds in. Or am I missing something?
Les, correct that is the one I saw. I havenât tried it but I think once the flap is folded and locked youâd just see a single line at the joint which is much better than the multiple lines and hump from the standard locking strip. But you are correct the best results would be to flip it around and put the round side it.
Itâs also a lot cheaper. I think 25 feet would do front and back, and the factory part is up around $80-100 for each at this point.
I am posting an update to this thread based on my recent experience. I just finished getting the hatch trim installed in my 1967 2+2, after literally years of frustration.
First, if the pieces dry fit as poorly as shown in the pictures at the top of this thread, I donât think you can force them to work. The original upper piece that I acquired 10 years ago dry fit poorly and I could never get it to work. Flash foward 10 years and I got a new set of pieces from SNG. Upon dry fit, they at least proved promising. I also bought and installed a new gasket.
Tip 1) Run a screwdriver, etc around the entire set of grooves in the gasket to make sure they are opened up and fully formed.
Tip 2) To lubricate or not lubricate? Lubrication with a water soap solution would seem like a no brainer. But in counter point, the rubber is going to grip the chrome better if it is dry. I wound up using some lubrication but I would at least give it a try dry.
Tip 3) Although not useable for permanent installation, you can consider locking the ends down through the supplied holes in the trims with small sheet metal screws.
Tip 4) Which edge to insert first? I had the best luck inserting the trim into the outer perimeter edge of the groove.
Tip 5) Start in the middle or start at the end? I usually start in the middle and work to both ends. That said, I had one that worked better by starting at one end and working around from there.
Tip 6) The old rope trick. It has been used for years to install the glass, in that you install a small rope in the groove and use it to pop the rubber seal around the edge of the glass. I thought why not for the trim. I used Masons Twine, which is pretty small diameter, maybe 1/16", nylon. I embedded it into the inner perimeter slot. Let it come out at the location of the joints at the sides. Leave one end long enough to tie off to the bumper and/or quarter window latch, as at some point as you get near the end, itâs going to try and just pull through. Once you get the trim embedded as far as possible into the outer perimeter groove, gradually use the string to pop the rubber seal edge over the inside perimeter edge. Worked for me! No adhesives required! (well, maybe for the 2 short trim clips, which donât get much of a purchase)
Those are my tips. To some degree, they apply to the front windscreen chrome trims pieces also. I hope this helps someone down the road who has used the Search function and read to the end of this thread.
Hello Erica,
Or better still; supply good copies of the original parts that actually fit. Its not rocket science when you donât have the design the part, just copy it.
Regards,
Bill
⌠you always been a radical?
Hello Paul,
Just thinking outside the square. 
Regards,
Bill
The OEM stuff just doesnât fit! I put the original chrome back on the hatch. Itâs not great but at least it fits!
The lower trim piece on the windscreen, again OEM, didnât fit either. After a couple of days trying to reform the piece I finally gave in and cut it in two. The two âendsâ now fit quite well simply because the A puller trim holds it in place, and the centers are located with SS flat head screws into the seal. I now have to find/make a single 2â piece to cover the center.
I really donât think any of the suppliers test or check their stuff for fit. Itâs a scandal that they donât, and none of this is news as it applies to so many parts.
Funny thing about this is that when I did my hatch window almost 25 years ago, I had the exact same problem with the repro parts. After a major struggle, I was barely able to pound them into place, but the two finisher clips never went in. So this particular part has been malformed for decades.
I used a similar method as Harvey. Placing the trims in the best possible location and screwing the ends down. That keep the trim from moving out of the inner rubber lip. that was the major frustration the first 4 tries. Then i put small dabs of 3m weather stripping cement where the trim was most likely to pop out, and worked the rubber lip over the trim. I didnât think of the string trick, it would have made it a lot simpler. I taped the trim down to dry, but those suction clamps look way better. Mask off everything and be prepared to do a big clean-up.
I worked with Drew fitting his original ones. We ended up having to grind the ends of the halves because there wasnât a big enough gap between them to allow the finishers to pop in. They literally overlapped. I suppose itâs possible some of this was due to aftermarket seals, if the placement of the trim channel in the rubber was slightly different from the original one.
It is a frustrating situation, that is for sure. All I can say is that the rear hatch trim pieces that I bought from SNG recently fit my particular rear hatch well enough that I did not have to resort to glue, clamps, or screws. Folks that are having trouble might want to give the current SNG parts a try while they last. I understand they are produced in small batches and can often be on backorder.
I do confess that on my windscreen trim, which I purchased quite some time ago but had to re-install after a glass out paint job, I wound up using sheet metal screws at the ends. I ground the heads down as thin as I could and they are not noticable behind the A pillar trim unless you are really looking hard.
The shape of the hatch glass, the opening in the hatch, and the gasket are all variables which may be part of the problem. You never really know. The joy of working on old cars!
The guy that I used to install the glass said there is a reason they donât use that design to retain glass anymore!
A little Off Topic, but there is an obscure link.
You think you have trouble getting the rear hatch moulding installed in the rear hatch seal; you should try and fit a rear hatch upper moulding to the sill. Not that long ago, I purchased two Sill Mouldings for an S3 E Type, from one of the usuals, the same as used on all long wheelbase platform models. What arrived were two upper mouldings for a rear hatch, bearing the part number of the sill moulding. I sent an email with a picture of the part attached, stating that I was having trouble getting the clips to assemble with the moulding and further difficultly getting the moulding to lay flat along the sill, with a âcan you helpâ.
Regards,
Bill
Ahem, I did and I had to cut the damned thing!