Rear hub carrier bearing problem

With help from a lot of you on this forum, and many steps forward and backward, I have gotten my e type series one on the road. Just a few miles and the rear wheels started to wander. I disconnected the carriers from the half shafts and re adjusted the bearings and put it all back together. No wheel wobble. Then I took it for a ride. fine for a few miles and then the wander started. back home and checked the wheels and they wobble again. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated, or a jag mechanic in south florida who might be able to help. Many thanks.

How did you adjust the bearings and readjust the bearings. They are shim set and do not get out of adjustment, especially on a short drive.

The castellated nut that holds all of this together goes to 120lbft from memory, and is pinned with a split pin, so it shouldn’t be able to come loose.

As Dick says, the spacer positively set the endfloat on the bearings and it can’t change.

Is it possible that you haven’t seated the bearings properly and the looseness you’re noticing is because of this?

As a sanity check, ensure that you have the splined hubs on the correct sides; if they are transposed the knockoff will undo as you drive…

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Andrew beat me to it.

Are the knock offs coming loose ?

thank you all. Hubs were not removed and are on the proper side. Very naive question: If the spacer between hub carrier and the half shaft is too thin, will that allow bearing to loosen enough to really wobble,or is it something else. the wheel hub seems like it “wobbles about 1/8” or more.

The thinner the shim, the tighter the bearings will be. Larger shims = looser.

that is what I thought. so there must be some problem whith the original installation of the bearings?

If the hubs were not removed how did you change the bearings, races, and seals? Im a lil confused as to what work was carried on ?

As Thorswhisper suggests. its rather difficult to adjust the bearings correctly without removing the hubs, that is of course if you’re not replacing bearings, or at least cleaning and regreasing the bearings. You state that you adjusted the bearings after the first observation of rear wheel wobble, so, if there was some problem with the original installation of the bearings, ditto for your adjustment.

You need to start the adjustment process with either the correct setting tool which has a 0.150" integral spacer, or a spacer of equal or greater thickness of 0.150" so that measurable end float is achieved. From the end float measured, the correct thickness for the permanate spacer can be calculated.



hubs were originally removed and bearings and seals installed by machine shop, then reinstalled. Car sat for a year thereafter while i did other work. when I finally took it out, it developed rear wheel wobble. then took off cotter pin and nut and swiveled hub carrier down and tapped inner bearing in to remove wobble. that was per an aritcle I saw on here from years ago. hub and wheel were then fine when reassembled and drove fine for about a mile and then the wobble came back. so i guess the original installation must be incorrect.

Hi Evan. How experienced was your shop with Jaguars - I say Jaguars as opposed to E Types as all of them from the early 60’s to at least the mid 80’s had the same hubs? Setting them up is not difficult but it’s not for beginners. I don’t know what expereince you have working on cars, but your explanations of what is happening don’t really make a lot of sense to folks that know how the hubs work. I think you may need to find a better mechanic.

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Well, that is rubbish advice. With the correct thickness spacer in place, there is no requirement to tap the inner bearing, just torque the nut up, as that can only pull the bearing into the limit imposed by the thickness of the spacer.

Clearly, the spacers you have in place must be too thick to result in the correct end float, but given that is the case, you can determine the correct spacer thickness to use by the following process:

  1. drift or press the inner bearing out a bit, if you already have it tapped in as you have explained.
  2. with the spacer in place, tighten the nut that secures the hub assembly to the splined shaft.
  3. measure the amount of end float that you now have
  4. measure the thickness of the current spacer and subtract the end float that you have, less 0.002" The resulting value will be the spacer thickness to use to give 0.002" end float.



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You are all assuming the shop put in the spacers. There is at least the possibility they simply tried to adjust the rear bearings as one might do on the front hubs.

That would make them out to be more incompetent than what they already seem Given that Even is having a reoccurring bout of excessive endplay, the spacers must be too thick, and if they tried adjusting the rear bearings in the same manner as the front by snugging up the nut, they would have ultimately arrived at a point where the nut was not torqued up as it should be and the excessive end float ignored.

If the spacers were left out and the nut snugged up until there was circa 0.002" end float and the split pin put in place, the end float won’t increase as Even is suggesting, but there is the possibility of the bearings being bumped into an excessive preload condition due to having no spacer to resist the inner bearing moving towards the outer bearing.



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Perhaps it’s as simple as that and they’re doing the castellated nut up loosely and putting in the split pin rather than doing it up to 140lbft.

Hello Andrew,
If that was the case, surely they would adjust the position of the nut to yield an acceptable end float. In that case and with the split pin in position, the end float won’t get any greater, but there is the possibility of the bearings becoming pre-loaded through axial force being applied when cornering for example. In any event, it would be lame machine shop that couldn’t think through the principles involved with this type of bearing arrangement, even if it was their first rodeo.

In an early Post the OP says that the hubs weren’t removed then in a later Post he says that the hubs were removed, with bearing and seals being replaced, so who knows what really happened.

Adjusting the end float of the rear bearings is arguably the easiest part of refurbishing the IRS unit and hard to get it wrong by just following the instruction in the Workshop Manual, even by a new chum to that operation…



Stranger things have happened :slight_smile: