I understand the factory was aware of this and they used loctite on the hub splines. But I could be wrong.
Thatās what I have read in many different threads on this and other forums.
What a hack of a fix by the factory.
there were on mine. (extra characters)
I would think you should be able to get away with āBlueā- much less yield strength
And donāt they have a special one for shafts or bushings or somethingā¦(memory fading)?
Yes they do have one that is specified to fill gaps up to so many thou but I forget the maximum gap.
Even with Blue, the ENORMOUS surface area will make it virtually impossible to take apart. Ever! I remember Dick Vandermeyden had a set of hubs that someone Loctited, he thought with Blue or perhaps Green. Itās the only set he ever had that he could NEVER get apart, even with a 75-ton press! The shaft deformed before the splines moved even the tiniest bit. He ended up tossing them in the trash.
Regards,
Ray L.
Is it possible to heat the shaft because IIRC Loctite yields at 600 degrees F. even the āforeverā green
DickV tried that, and still could not get it apartā¦ Heating softens the Loctite, it does not make it give up entirely. If you ever use Red Loctite, youāll find heating (above 500F) makes it POSSIBLE to get the parts apart, but itās still not easy. Again, the issue is the enormous surface area. Even with relatively little āgripā per square inch, there are a helluva lot of square inches on those splines, so a massive amount of force is required to get them to move.
Regards,
Ray L.
The splines on my Triumph race car are green or red (the stronger one, forget which) loctited on. I take them off by heating them up over 600 degrees and then itās an easy press off. Have done it. It kind of turns into a viscous sludge with heat and gives up its hold.
Maybe you just canāt effectively heat the jag setup
And I think the difference between 500 and 600 makes all the difference in the world to the process
I did manage to get one apart with loctite all along the shafts, using a hub puller, and 6ft pipe on 3/4" Sidchrome breaker, and all my strength (no heat)
our Club tool is not the exact J7 ,but an adapted Kenworth Truck Hub Puller, its massive.
Prior to that an engineer in our club used a 100ton press
have read that Jaguar did it to stop reported clunk, but I have seen too many snapped axle nuts (in various Jags, but never an E-type), that I believe Jaguar must have done this as a safety issue to.
If ur able to search the archives, and engineer by the name of Jan Wikstrom explains why they snap
for the dummy spacer, i use 5/8" hardwood dowel, in 3 pieces,2 short ones for each end, then drive the longer piece thru, displacing the shorter bitsā¦works like a charm, wont tear shims, being wood, cost $5
There was no Loctite on the axle splines when I removed the hub carrier which presumably why it came off easily. I did not put any Loctite on the splines on reassembly, just Copaslip anti-seeze.
Andy
I agree 100%. NEVER use any thread locking compound on these splines. I use Never Seize.
If you are getting movement here with the nut done up to 120lbft the splines on the driveshaft and/or the hub are damaged and need replacing.
Working on my hub carrier fulcrum a bearings this week. With the updated modern fulcrum seal, do I still need seating ring pn 16628? Thanks
Canāt remember now. Iirc you leave out the felt retainer, but fit the narrow spacer. Fit the bearing and measure the space, if you have enough depth to fit the spacer then do so.
Hello Dennismo,
Thatās correct, it was introduced with S2 XJ6 and S3 model E Type. That practice was dropped by Jaguar and a Work Memo was raised accordingly, when difficulty in removing Hub From Splined shaft eventuated.
Removing the Hub from the Male Spline can be tough when Loctite has been used and is often beyond the performance of the JD 7A factory tool. The following pictures shows my tool arrangement that will shift the toughest stuck spline. The most pressure Iāve had to apply to a Loctite assembled Hud was just over 8 ton.
The second picture of the nut sitting on timber is only to show how the Hub comes up through the plate, with the Hub Carrier and Half Shaft suspended below.
Regards,
Bill
Regards,
Bill
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It was not unknown to have the threaded end of the half shaft break off when racing E Types. I saw it once at Goodwood with a lightweight E Type driven by Danny Sullivan. The wheel flopped over to be horizontal with the ground and the car spun out onto the grass. (The lightweights had enlarged rear wheel openings in the quarter panels) Didnāt hit anything. It was routine to put Loctite on the spines when racing and to crack check the threaded portion frequently.
I remember dismantling the hub on my '68 in 1972. It had to go to a machine shop to be done. It had been assembled with some kind of brown colored locking compound. Iāve had persistent loud clicking noises from the hubs on both my 67 and 68, and new hubs did not cure this. Drove me crazy. Finally installed them with blue Loctite and the problem went away. Peace at last. Will have to deal with disassembly later - hopefully not for 20 years?
Perhaps the solution is to only use loctite on 2 of the splines 180 degrees from each other. This would very likely stop the clicking and hopefully not make it too hard to press out the hub in the future.