Hello, the rear lights fitting in the car was very difficult, it much be very perfect within o,2 mm. The frames from Barrett aren’t that perfect to fit ones.
The frames are to big and the fillet had to be perfect in the back of the car within one mim.
Fittets welding on the outside of inside, lots of questions.
Frank.
It’s one of the most common fitting struggles. I’m not sure the degree to which original fitment suffered similar issues. If your body is bare, modifying it with lead or filler is the optimum solution, make the body fit the part. If you’re in the predicament I was, trying to make the part fit a painted car, the only solution is to slowly nibble away at the part’s contact points until it makes reasonably good contact all around then get it rechromed. It’s days of work no matter what.
Hi Erica, yes the whole week working in the garage and then I made the boxes inside already. Thinking is easy with the frames I bought, but they have be worked upon as well.
So it isn’t easy to fit the frame work, had to be within a few tens of a millimeter, otherwise the screws don’t fit.
Yesterday I tried to make the left rear light fit better to cut the fillet frame beneath and hammer it a little inside welded,
Another complicating factor is there are two light escutcheons for the fixed head coupes…I Discovered that when the twit who stole my original ones, made it very difficult for me to find replacements.
Paul, I don’t believe it that there are two escutcheons for the fixed head coupes. I have a set from a FHC and for the DHC, plus a made two escutcheons from RVS steel, but did not finish it, so today I will try. Chroming is very expansive.
Had some difficulty with one RVS "rosette, I made myself’ and bumpers to fit nicely. Sent you a photo later.
Frank.
O dear, that;s an opening to me, did not know this, don’t matter because I shape the tail end to fit the light.
The stainless light was difficult, I made them when I was working at a firm, they worked a lot with stainless steel, did the over rider too, on the right