I believe it’s actually an 82 profile, if I’m not mistaken.
Could your squeak be from the u-joint cover coming loose and rubbing in the housing?
Seems more liquely to me.
OK, so it’s been a busy week at work and a lot of rain here so it was hard to find time to get under the car. Before lifting again, I decided to take another peek at “the offending rubber” and that’s when most of your other comments started to make more sense.
On the ground, that rubber stop was nowhere near the tire, causing me to deduce that little snail track on the inside of the tire was caused while lifted and I was spinning manually looking for the squeak.
One thing I neglected to mention, and I’m hoping this was the problem/solution as after a few laps around my neighborhood, no squeak or unpleasant sounds were to be heard.
While spinning the wheels by hand, my left wheel wasn’t 100% flush against the hub. I wouldn’t say it was loose, but there was the tiniest bit of play or wobble when pushed/pulled. The spinner took quite a few heavy whacks to remove. I tried to take the wheel off to investigate the rubber but had difficulty so I just put the spinner back on and made sure to give it a thorough introduction to Thor’s hammer.
This seems to have resolved the issue.
Now I’ve got something else to worry about during spirited driving, but if I hear that squeak again, I’ll know what to check first.
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Philip, if you spinners are aftermarket, it may be the issue, As I understand, some of the newer repros are not as deeply threaded and may not tighten up against the hub as it should. I haven’t had the issue with my repros but they were purchased around ‘98 and could have even sat on a shelf for quite some time before purchase making them older still.
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Hey Larry,
They are indeed repros, but I’ve had them on for almost two years. I wonder if this happened due to not being tightened properly after all the work that’s been done or just something I’ll now have to monitor regularly?
In any case… seems to be corrected at the moment, so we’ll soon see!
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If it were to happen again I would suggest moving the KO from the squeaky wheel to a different one to see if the noise follows the KO.
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I have to say, it doesn’t instill confidence. I found 3 of 4 wheels not exactly flush today. For now, chalking it up to a bad day at the shop and gave them all extra whacks with the hammer. Will definitely be monitoring.
Hi Philip…this may sound obvious but do you have the hubs and spinners fitted correctly…i know someone that had spinners comming loose…when i went to check it out for him he had the nearside hubs fitted to the offside and visa versa…hence spinners comming loose…as others have also said some repros can come loose…especially the 2 eartype…i understand youve them fitted for 2 years but its not the time its the milage covered… Steve
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Hey Steve, Nothing is beyond question at this point. The spinners are fitted correctly… I think/hope they just needed to be tightened more securely. I’m going to be checking periodically until the issue is put to rest.
I hate the idea of going back to wingless hubs, but not as much as losing a wheel on Mulholland!
Hello Larry,
All the Aftermarket examples I’ve played with also seem to have a slightly incorrect Taper. It’s really hard to understand how manufacturers of such items can get it wrong nowadays, when extracting detail from an existing product is not difficult using a Coordinate Measuring Machine (CMM).
I’ve re-machined dozens of the Aftermarket units using a program to cut a correct profile that I gained by measuring a pristine original part with a CMM. Due to the outside shape and the slight inconsistency of the outside shape of the KO, brought about by finishing for chrome plating, they’re not an easy part to set up on a CNC lathe so that the Thread and Taper are concentric with the centre line of the machine and pointing true.
With Z Zero of the machine set to the existing face of the part, the taper is slightly large at the mouth and doesn’t clean up, but a cut is made at the backend of the taper. Invariably, the Z Zero has to be moved circa 0.25mm towards the chuck to get the whole surface of the taper to clean up. The face, taper and thread are all recut using the CMM data.
Regards,
Bill
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You really don’t need to wail away on the spinners to have them properly tightened.
At least not spinners that are properly made.
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Exactly. I only snug them up firm and they are always harder to remove after the vehicle has completed more than just a hand full of miles. They were originally described as Self-tightening and later when Dunlop bought the rights, Self-locking. In my opinion, this change of description was as much about legal issues as it was describing the actual performance of the device. I still, via observation, consider them to be Self-tightening (when made correctly).
Regards,
Bill
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Hoping this was an anomaly. I’ve been driving the car hard since I got it running and even more so since the suspension & clutch work. Time or a fantastic crash will tell!
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Bill, can you comment on whether the aftermarket hubs have the correct taper to mate with original spinners?
Good question, Geoff
Geoff[Geoff
“can you comment on whether the aftermarket hubs have the correct taper to mate with original spinners?”
Hi Geoff…the spinner dosnt mate to the taper on the hub the inside taper of the wheel does…the spinner taper mates to the taper on the outside of the wheel…painted or powder coated wheels can have a problem with spinners mating correctly untill the paint/coating is worn down…Steve
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Hello Geoff,
As per Steve’s explanation.
Regards,
Bill
I will ask Geoff’s question slightly different.
Do the aftermarket hubs have the proper taper to mate with the original wire wheels, and do the reproduction (Dayton and MMS) wheels all seem to have the proper taper to mate with the original hubs and knockoffs?
In other words, out of the four tapers, is it only the reproduction knockoffs that are off taper?
Tom
Yes, that is what I was get at but obviously did not spend the time to visualize the actual contact points.
FWIW, my original hubs on my Dayton wheels appear to tighten just fine. I use a lead hammer.