Rear Wheel Squeek-Culprit Identified, Needs ID!

My observation, yes.



I can’t answer your first question Tom but I can the second, partially. I have MWS wheels on both my E-type and XK120, both cars with their original hubs and rechromed knockoffs. Perfect fit.

Hi Tom…iv been around a few Jag forums for a long time the repro spinner problem is a constant…you dont get loose spinners with originals…you do with some repro…however hubs, wheels, spinners…all the different manufacturers…many options…if you get loose wheels just try a set of original spinners…they dont have to look great just to try…even beat up ears and no chrome but at least they will work…less than $100 a set…Steve

And no problems with either of my cars that had 6" wide Daytons on them.

I do not know if my S2 has original knockoffs or not, the G and U appear to not be squished (per original), but if I remember, there are no numbers or letters inside (per reproduction.) And the letters are not painted.
What I have noticed is sometimes after mounting the wheel, tightening the knockoff and driving, I would hear a sound, like a clicking sound. When I jack the car by the lower control arm and wiggle the wheel, there would be slight movement between the wheel and the hub even though the spinner was completely tight. I have 205/70-15 tires on the car. When I jack the rear by the IRS cage, which is what I usually do, the tires will touch the bumpers. I believe what can happen is when the tire touches the bumper and then I tighten the knockoff, the wheel does not fully seat on the inner hub taper, but the knockoff does get tight and holds the wheel in this cocked position. To solve, I jack the car by the lower control arm so the wheel is off the ground and so the tire is not touching the bumper. I then, with the knockoff loose, wiggle the wheel back against the taper, then tighten the knockoff. The tightened wheel now has no movement on the hub and all noises are gone. FWIW.


That’s exactly my situation, though I haven’t jacked by the control arm yet. The initial offending squeak was when the left rear was much looser than it should have been. Not a huge amount of play, but enough to make it move side to side when pressure applied. The other wheels produced similar but much less significant movement and no squeaks have been heard since.

FWIW, I was taught to tighten the hubs a ‚Äúreasonable,‚ÄĚ but not too forcefully amount while jacked and then give final, more strenuous whacks once lowered and on the ground. In any case, something I‚Äôll be checking as part of the routine for a bit.

I’ve been running 205/70’s or bigger tires for 40 plus years. The usual advice given when you installed them was to remove the rubber portion of the bump stop. As dimensions haven’t changed it’s probably still good advice. I took mine out without any issues all those years ago and never reinstalled them

The free play you are experiencing may be wear in the hub bearings for improperly set clearances. Typically you can rock the wheel a bit with this clearance even when set properly but when it wears its very noticeable and can easily be confused with a loose knock off


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