The IRS Discussion thread is too long for convenience, I’ll start a new thread regarding the hubs. Here’s the link to the previous thread:
The IRS on my '63 FHC is complete up through the hubs where I ran into a problem with the left side splined yoke - the snap ring groove being ruined.
So far on the IRS the differential has been gone through with new output bearings and seals, the proper output flange bolts installed, and a bent pinion flange straightened and new pinion seal, new inner Fulcrum Shafts and seals and actually safety wired, safety wired on the top 4 differential bolts too that were totally missing, replaced one disc (that was for a different model having incorrectly located caliper bolt access holes), rebuilt calipers with refurbished original brake cylinders and pistons and green stuff pads, and I fixed the handbrake calipers. I’m probably going to add a remote bleed setup. I had planned to not redo the hubs as the bearing felt smooth and the end float was spot on. But with the ruined splined yoke. Well, you know, while you’re in there…
I found a used Splined Yoke through Jag-Lovers and I’m borrowing an extraction tool from another member. While waiting for those to arrive:
The bad snap ring groove on the left splined yoke. Hard to see in the pic but the snap ring groove is non-existent right where the circle is and the 90 deg edge on most of it is no longer square.
On the other side of that half shaft, the U-joint Flange had been cut by someone removing the stud. That is fixed now TIG welded.
Here’s the Left side Half Shaft and Hub. The knife is marking where the cut was.
And here’s the Half Shaft in pieces.
And the Hub. The Outer Fulcrum Shaft had rubber type of seals but the original Timken 03062 bearings and races are brinelled so they’ll be replaced. My vendor sent me felt seals, but I’ll be using rubber ones suggested by you-all. Most seem to suggest the National 471652 Oil Seal and that is correct, but I’ll use the SKF CR11124 suggested by @Aristides because it’s Double Lip. Finding that proper Timken bearing is turning out to be expensive, so I may choose otherwise.
Dismantling the Hub was not such an onerous job. I used an air impact wrench to remove the large outer bolt; it had to work a bit, but it finally came loose. I then got a surprise because I moved to inside U-joint and while working to remove the Flange, the whole Haft Shaft came out of the Hub! A nice surprise. I thought the Extractor Tool from @rk62ots would be needed! I’ll still need it to set the shims.
Removing the U-Joints was pretty straight forward; I just used the floor press and sockets to drive the cross to one side, remove the bearing cap, drive it to the other side and remove that cap. They needed some “encouragement” but no drama. With the Half Shaft dismantled, I removed the wheel Hub from the Hub Carrier. Also pretty straight forward on the press. I really like the air assist on this press, it makes getting the ram to the work piece very quick. At that point I switch to the hydraulic handle. My setup looks exactly like Rob (rk62ots) showed me.
I keep that box of packing under the press to catch stuff…had to learn the hard way but this works pretty good.
With the wheel Hub free of the Hub Carrier I found some damage to the carrier near the inner seal. Something had hit it and smooshed the edge of the hole for the seal/bearing into the seal. I straightened it the best I could and it’ll be all right.
On inspection of the bearings and races, they look great. There are not marks on the races and the rollers all look perfect. I see no reason not to re-use these bearing. I’ll have to borrow a bearing extractor to remove the Outer Bearing just so the Outer Seal can be replaced. The Outers:
To get the inner seal out, I drove the Inner Bearing’s Outer Race out enough to pop the Inner Seal out.
The Inners:
And that where things stand today. I’ll inspect the right side Hub/Half Shaft but have to take a break for family time.
