Well good news/ bad news. My new fuel pump arrived today and was fitted along with a fuel filter between the change over solenoid and the new pump. The car needed a little priming to start but once started it continued to run. I can hear some cavitation in the pump area which I am sure has to do with the filter not being the right size. The hoses seem to be 1/2" inner diameter and the filter is around 3/8" causing the hose to have to be crimped right up tight, no leaks but some cavitation. Can someone point me to a more suitable filter? When I removed the pump I gave it a couple of whacks with the inlet pointed down and was not surprised to see the amount of crud that came out. So now I am back to square one with the car stuttering a little on acceleration while cold but improving as it warms up. I have checked the CTS, even going to the trouble of plotting a Temperature vs Resistance graph which actually looks like the one for the in spec one in the archives. I think Iāll start a new thread to continue the search for that problem. The fuel pressure gauge continues its trek to South Australia from China so that test is still to come. Thank you to all respondents to this thread and I look forward to your thoughts in the future
Con
PS is there any way to clean out the old pump? Does running it backwards with fuel sucking in the outlet work?
WIX 33299 has 1/2" nipples.
But, the original filter, downstream of the pump, has 5/16" nipplesā¦or maybe 3/8". (Only two sips into my first cuppa coffee, still a bit blurry-brained, sorry)
Cheers
DD
Back to square one from square minus five is some progress Constantinos !
Indeed your filters are too restrictive, had exactly the same problem when I had initially installed 10mm filters and hoses. Reverted back to 12mmā¦
This is hat I used in the end and they worked fine, good quality and they also have a magnet inside.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12mm-Billet-Magnetic-Fuel-Filter-30-Micron-Silver-Anodised/151206739038
Mind you , Iāve put two, before the switch-over valve.
Your engine is running lean.
Did you change the fuel filter ?
Does the Six has an Air Temp Sensor? if so disconnect it and see if it makes a difference. It will enrich by about 10%.
If Fuel pressure is correct next things I would check:
Oxygen Sensor (when was it changed last ?)
Air flow sensor
The vacuum connection to the ECU.
Base Fuel Map on the ECU.
You could try adjusting the ECU, turn the potentiometer a couple of clicks CW, it will make it a bit richer, and see if the stuttering improves.
Aristides
What about the original downstream filter? Clogged, perhaps? Contaminated fuel?
Rusty tanks are common on these carsā¦doubly so if they sit unused for long periods. Whatās the history of your car?
Cheers
DD
Inside the AFMā¦so it canāt be easily disconnected
Not present on the 6-cylinder ECU since the 6-cylinder cars uses an airflow-type fuel injection
Again, not found on the 6-cylinder cars
Cheers
DD
Thanks for the correction Doug.
Hi Doug, thanks for your reply, the car is a project that I bought cheaply about 4 months ago. The stuttering was present when I bought it but it had been sitting for a while and I thought fresh fuel would probably cure the problem. Anyhow there has been a long process of testing and I emptied the tanks (mostly all over the floor) gave them a flush out , replaced the seals and refilled. The senders donāt work properly so I needed to know exactly how much fuel was in there. When I washed out tthe tanks I also replaced the fuel filter. So the stuttering was present before and after replacing the filter. The hoses after the pump are 5/16" high pressure hose but the hoses before are 1/2" plain fuel hose. The pump is not the standard pump but an aftermarket one that purportedly has similar specs. I think it is up to the job but wonāt know for sure until the fuel pressure gauge arrives.
Aristedes your switch over valve looks different to mine. The problem I seem to have with mine is the the outlet points to the back of the car meaning that the hose bends towards the pump. Is there some sort of brass right angled bend that can take the bend out of the hose?
Con
Hi Con Been following this post and the fuel filters .I have a 86 series 3 that I have on club plates.
I replaced the fuel lines through out the car and in the boot the 1/2 inch line from the tank to changeover valve,
I have sourced a filter ( but not had a chance to install them yes ) that has 12mm inlet and outlet fittings, from a parts supplier in Sydney.
It is a Cooper EFI fuel filter WCF76 Z200 W/-12mm pipe. It was about $12 and available off the shelf.
This may be of some assistance to protect the fuel pump as I intend to fit one either side between the tank and changeover valve.
Thanks for that Nigel.
Not sure I have an oxygen sensor where can I find it? Havenāt been able to find any reference in the manuals.
Con
Hi Con
On my series 3 I found it ( when removing the auto transmission pan ) right down almost at the back of the gearbox.
My car has the exhaust pipes from the manifolds down past the gearbox then they join together and then split back into two pipes over the diff etc,
The o2 sensor is were the two pipes join together on my jag.
I am new to Jaguars so i am not sure if this is the standard set up or if my has been modified .
Regards
Thanks Nigel, Iāll check it out
Con
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Pursue the ācapmodā, Con - itās the most viable explanationā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Yes indeed itās not original and itās a motorized valve. If you want more info search at my posts.
With the original valve there was enough length and space for the 12mm hose to do the 90Ā° bend.
You could add a brass angle if you want, but the original set-up works just fine.
Well, except the valve itself that isā¦
Aristides
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Replace the AFM ( AirFlow Meter) with a new or functional used one.
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Replace the Fuel pump with the Bosch type used for Benz C180 and others (you may have the quality new one from NL)
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Replace the fuel filter.
Once you replace these 3 parts, your car will be strong to get on road again
This post is 4 years old, car is either running well by now or scrapped.
As it happens Robin, the car is is still around but I have not got around to getting it running properly yet. When CoVid struck I had a chat with my mechanic and offered it to him to work on when he got quiet which we expected would happen fairly quickly. The opposite happened, he got insanely busy so the car has been in storage at his workshop. I spoke to him last week and he is close to sorting it out so it will be coming home soon. I gave him a budget and I actually trust him to not go over that with out consultation. Itāll be nice to have the car back in my driveway.
can
Con