I made my own but now available from a few vendors. I can bleed the rear brakes without lifting the car. I also added remote clutch bleed thru the transmission hole and bleed the clutch while sitting in the car.
Now, THAT is awesome!!!
I have the kit sold by XKs (and possibly others) it uses braided lines that can be routed to the rear of the cage mounting on the bottom lip:
To get to the rear I fed the line over the caliper:
With this I can bleed them without raising or really being under the car.
I had trouble getting the bleeders to close tightly (very slight drip) both with the supplied speed-bleeders and a stock bleeder. In the end I modified a stock bleeder to accept a steel ball and that resolved it:
[Note - magnet used to assist in fitting the bleeder with the ball on the tip]
I suspect that the inner taper of the bleed fitting was simply an imperfect match for the taper of the bleeder but that is just a guess.
I got a set of the Rob Beere ones from Classic Jag. They are awesome, and turn a multi hour, greasy, knuckle busting job into a 15 minute, clean and painless one.
I fabbed and installed remote bleeders four or so years ago.
This is the sequence I posted on J-L back then:
- Two brass brake tees, each wired brushed at one end to prep for soldering
- wire brush and tin about 1" of 3-8x UNF 24 threaded rod stock
- cut the tinned rod stock to make a plug
- apply flux to both ends of plug and screw into connectors
- clamp assembly in vice to align and solder together
- file excess solder smooth
screw in bleed nipples and attach to angle iron mount
remote bleeders in place with cunifer feed pipes
While I prefer the remotes I but found them more difficult to bleed:
Just received a Fosseway upgrade to the clutch bleeding process last week.
I would be interested in how you routed lines. Are you using the transmission plug on the passenger side (US Car)…?
Yes, got mine from SNG, they are very convenient as both bleeders are on the same side of the car and can be reached by removing the RH rear wheel and both are right there.
Interesting, never heard of it. I wonder if there are issues with the length of the clutch flex line? It’s been a while since I looked at it but I think mine goes in the top and is sized for that run. I’m not sure the degree to which having it exit the top helps. It may help get the bubble into the new remote line, but then the bubble still has to travel down in order to exit, and if it doesn’t’ exit, it still reduced compression because the fluid path is extended to the bottom nipple.
Ultimately, clutch bleeding is the easiest bleeding task. You just run a hose into a bottle and crack it open and go have a coffee. No need to press the pedal at all.
I hear ya…I’ll report back after the install…
I had an extra braided line so I ran it from the coupling to the bottom of the clutch slave and then ran a hard line from the top of the slave to the transmission tunnel 3 inch hole where I mounted the bleed nipple. Always thought the slave should bleed from the top to get out all the air bubbles, which on this side of the pond flow up.
I tried this several times unsuccessfully Erica.Don’t know what I was doing wrong because it is so simple.
I do the same on my rear brakes as well. Open the remote bleeders one after the other and let gravity do what it does to all of us. I do empty and replace the fluid in the reservoir first, if its to replace the fluids - and leave the reservoir caps off.
I have tried that only with a dry system.
Assuming your nipple is on the bottom try just taking it all the way out using a drip pan to catch it… Maybe some crud?
Yes, stock slave cylinder. I tried several days of dripping slowly and topping reservoir. I tried fast dripping also.
However, I have to qualify this:
Ray Livingston was helping me, and commented how
poorly my new clutch was despite being properly adjusted. This is the clutch which replaced then which failed. I later realized that I had installed a spacer because I became convinced I needed a spacer under the new MC I had installed years earlier when I replaced the tranny. Removing that spacer improved the clutch operation greatly. It is possible that the bleeding effort I am complaining about was before that shim removal.
How about a little pressure?
This is how I used low pressure to help bleed my XJR brakes. An old BMX inner tube cut and sealed on one end nd the other zip tied around the reservoir.
Or on the E Type for brakes you should be able to put one in of the tube on each of the brake reservoirs and pressurize everything.
Disclaimer - I have not tried the inner tube, I use a modified reservoir cap and an air tank.
Good thinking on the twin brake system, or on a single you could do both the brakes and the clutch at the same time
Pete Peterson…wish he was still with us…I miss him…taught me
No need for remote bleeders…
the IRS rear brake calipers pipes coming up
from the hose… to change the pipes to the outside ports
leaving the inside ports for bleeders…
change the short cross over pipes that go to each half of the caliper…then you can bleed the rear brakes without remote bleeders…