Those do look nice. I was using Speed Bleeders for a while and they have an internal spring valve. It works okay for a while but locks up over time and won’t open again.
I was wondering about the complexity of the above design. Seems to me if you change your fluid every couple of years the spring won’t get gummed up and work ok. It’s whatever maximises fluid flow to ease bleeding. This one is self sealing.
REMOTE BRAKE BLEEDERS, I AM JUST FITTING A PAIR FROM XKS…DUE TO THE EXTRA LENGTH (DEFINATELY OVERSIZE) ON THE PIECE SCREWED INTO THE CALIPER IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO ASSEMBLE THESE WITHOUT LOOSENING THE CALIPER FROM THE DIF.LUCKILY I HAVE THE REAR END OUT OTHERWISE I DOUBT IF THESE COULD BE FITTED IN SITU .JOHN[quote=“tomfelts, post:1, topic:364206, full:true”]
Has anyone added these to their IRS? If so how do you like them and where did you get them?
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I made my own before the kits became available. Made bleeding the brakes easy without raising the car. I woul definitely recommend them if you are taking out the rear.
“DUE TO THE EXTRA LENGTH (DEFINATELY OVERSIZE) ON THE PIECE SCREWED INTO THE CALIPER IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO ASSEMBLE THESE WITHOUT LOOSENING THE CALIPER FROM THE DIF”
John, I just put my remotes on last week. I too, had the same problem. However, on my 69’, I switched the input lines and the bleader lines. I was able to hook the longer fittings up to the original “input” port and switched the input brake lines to the original bleeder port. I should add that I have mine fastened to the cage on the forward side of the cage, not the back side. I didn’t like the angle that the flex line had to be bent to, in order to route it to the rear?
This was what led me to the Rob Beere kit. The end that bolts to the caliper in place of the bleed nipple is a banjo fitting on an angled pipe. I just lays in place on top of the caliper with a crush gasket under it. It was quite easy to install with the whole cage in place.
Wiggles, it’s Copper/nickle/steel. It’s my understanding that it is as strong, but more flexible. If I am wrong, I can easily change them. They are the only two made with that???
JEGS NiCopp Brake Lines are a seamless copper nickel alloy tubing DOT approved for hydraulic brake systems. They are strong as steel, rust proof and easier to work with than any brake line on the market. This product has been used on several high end European vehicle brake systems since the 1970s including: Audi, Porsche, Aston Martin and Volvo. NiCopp brake line bends 58% easier than traditional steel tubing. Since it is flexible, this allows it to be easily snaked into positions that conventional brake lines cannot. A painstaking job has just got easier and quicker! Available in 3/16" and 1/4" diameters and various lengths. Durable black oxide coated steel tube nuts are
Me, too! I ordered the kit from XK’s a few years ago and discovered that it’s impossible to install it with the IRS in situ. It’s still sitting on my shelf in its original packaging. I’ve been in contact with Rob Beere to order his kit which he assures me can be installed without removing the IRS, although it’s a bit fiddly. The XK’s kit will be getting posted in the “For Sale” section of the forum.
I installed the XK’s remote bleeders to my S3 a couple of weeks ago, IRS in situ. I had read about the experiences of others on the installation difficulty so after giving it some thought I enlisted the help of my teenage son who positioned himself at the rear of the IRS cage and fed the remote bleeder in a loop over the rear brake rotor. I was located at the rear access hatch (passenger compartment side) and guided the bleeder toward the caliper threaded hole. As soon as I had it aligned my son rotated the remote bleeder in a clockwise direction and voila after tweaking to find the first thread engagement it screwed in smoothly. It took 2 minutes to screw in the first bleeder and due to our amazement that we succeeded it took three times as long to get the second one in!