Hello Atty Paul - online site of Home Depot states available - will have to check with local store - thanks.
Curious - how much $$ are they asking for a can, these days? 
A little PB Blaster and a good turn of the wrench is all it really needs. Weāre not talking suspension parts here. With the pedestal out, you should be able to get plenty of leverage with a standard wrench.
On the subject of penetrating oils. I read an article from a man in Canada that races the salt flatās. He did a test of all penetrating oil and his version. His version won and I have made it and used it with very good results. Recipe 1 part acetone to 1 part atf. Spray and let set acetone carries the atf in and then evaporates leaving the hi detergent atf to work. Like I said works very well.
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Hello NIB -what are the effects of this, acetone and ATF, mix on aluminum parts of the engine, on rubber parts from the overspray, on electrical wire insulation from the overspray - just asking before I attempt use of this mix, if the PB Blaster or Kroil items do not work - thanks, Tex.
Remember, a few good taps with a hammer do wonders for loosening up corroded threads.
Hello Greg - yes, that is what I am going to try, once I get the throttle base tower out of the way, thereby giving me room to swing the hammer - thanks, Tex.
I have used on aluminum with no ill effects. O rings and wire I really cannot say.
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Iāve only seen Kroil available on Amazon here in the US. $20 for 8 oz liquid and $30 for 13 oz aerosol. Iāve had good success with it on suspension parts, but Iāve never run any tests to compare it to pb blaster or others. Maybe Kroil is worth the extra price since it doubles as a nice-smelling after shave in a pinch?
A modified scaler bit on an air tool. Just a stub to vibrate the stuck fastener.,
Well, ATF does not seem to harm alloy transmission cases. Acetone, also known as lacquer thinner and
miladies finger nail polish remover and the aerosol in hair spray. Iād not be concerned.,
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Well here it is approx. five months later and I am here to update that I did finally get the oil pressure changed out, after removing the throttle capstan pedestal, soaking the area of the threads on both the sendor and sensor, and the bolts for the pedestal - installed the new oil pressure sendor, and a new oil pressure light sensor switch - just finally got these installed last week and just got everything put back in place yesterday - charged up the battery, which has been disconnect all this time, and had an immediate start up, then shut down - turned the key on once more, giving fuel pump time to fill the rail, then immediate firing up and running just fine. I now have good oil pressure reading now today, but have another problem - oil leak some where as there is oil coming down on to the ground from the area of the rear of the engine - it will be a few days before I can search this leak out, as I have the car outside while waiting for the garage door repairman to come to replace a broken spring on the garage door - will update in a new post when I find out where the leak is - thanks for everyoneās help, Tex - sent 3/9/2022 1731hrs. EST USA.
I had similar issue after fitting my oil pressure senderā¦I had assumed it was British pipe threads, so bought an adapter to the American pipe threads on the sender I bought. It was leaking from there, onto back of engine.
Refitted it without the adapter, and itās not leaked since.
Hopefully, Greg, it might be as āeasyā as that (since I now know what to do to remove and replace the oil pressure sendor), but I will search and post where I āthinkā it is leaking from - thanks, Tex.
Terry,
No time to read the whole story - hence discard if mentioned above already:
1st method: grab sender with the spanner/crow foot,apply and hold the tension towards tightening action, use a chipping hammer to repeatedly bang the outer wall of threaded part of the pipe (below sender) dozen of time, apply tension towards unscrewing action, now bang as many times as possible, even if it will take 100 blows. Thatās your manual impact wrench. Be patient, donāt worry about small inclusions caused.
2nd method: find gas soldering or mapp gas torch with precise flame, remove the nearby sensor, grab sender nut with a spanner, heat up the wall of the threaded pipe (below sensor), try to force it bolting then unscrewing direction.
3rd method: join 1st and 2nd method together. This will require either assistant, birth defect (2nd pair of hands) or really long and agile pecker.
Works well with penetrants. Requires stripping the area for access. Use common sense to measure force applied.
Discard this method if you we having heavy toys as a toddlerā¦
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Janusz - Appreciate your willingness to answer, but I have already gotten the new sendor and sensor installed - as I mentioned above, now I have to find where the oil is dripping as I see that I have oil on the ground - I will be sure to post what I find - Tex,
Pau M Novak - in reference to the picture you posted in post number 20, do you have any picture that depicts the area further over to the left, showing the other end of the top pipe that is connected just below the oil pressure sendor - I am asking as there is oil dripping off of this pipe, close towards the head, at a bend of the pipe - I am trying to determine where the oil is coming from - it does not seem to be coming from the connection at the mount area of the oil pressure sendor, - I did not have this oil leak prior to replacement of the oil pressure sendor and the oil pressure switch sensor - common sense would say that my problem is the sealing at the sendor mount, but I do not see any oil leak there - thanks Tex - sent 3/14/2022 2330hrs. EDT USA.
Tex, each camshaft gets oil from its own oil line located at the rear of the engine. Each line has a fitting sealed with a very thin copper washer which is a known problem. Replacing your senders has disturbed the oil line/copper washer sealing, so now you have something else to fix. Unfortunately.
Definitely spray some carb cleaner around the area and keep checking with a mirror or somethingā¦the leak could still be simple, but dripping down onto something else making it look like the problem. You donāt want a huge task if itās not necessary.
Like I said earlier, mine was from the threads of the sender, but it took me a few looks to finally determine. It actually helped to clean it all up, and then take a look at idle when it would drip drip drip.
If you didnāt loosen the mounting fixture to the head, then I donāt see how the copper washers could have been disturbed. The fixture should have absorbed most of the resistance in turning the wrench. Now, if you put any kind of leverage onto the actual tubing, then all bets are off.
Also, these are NPT threadsā¦like plumbing. Did you use some pipe putty on the threads?
Hello Dave - okay, so from the picture Paul posted, I see two lines, going left and right, that would be the cam feed that you are talking about so will follow them - what is the third line for that is in the middle - Tex.